Panhead hard to kick
Hello everyone,looking for a few opinions here. I'm building a 58 pan into a fl style. Motor is all rebuilt to stock specs. Question is when I try to kick the motor over even with the plugs out it's very stiff throughout the entire kick.it feels smooth and consistent just cant kick it fast to start it. But if I put a socket and ratchet on the crank it rolls nice and smooth. Could the issue be with the kicker? Thanks to all
Trans is full of new oil clutch is spot on...... Could the prob be with the kicker itself or am I missing something here... I've yet to start the fresh pan..my 64 kicks hard but it's a 6v points bike... The 58 is now 12v electronic. Why so stiff to kick?? Thanks guys
I doubt it's the kicker, not ruling it out, but, primary chain correctly adjusted?
Clutch adjusted correctly so there's no grab or binding? I know you said it's spot on but I would recheck.
With the plugs out, everything should roll really smooth, if not, you need to track down why.
6v vs 12v should have nothing to do with it. What's the status of the transmission? Engine was rebuilt but what about the trans?
Clutch adjusted correctly so there's no grab or binding? I know you said it's spot on but I would recheck.
With the plugs out, everything should roll really smooth, if not, you need to track down why.
6v vs 12v should have nothing to do with it. What's the status of the transmission? Engine was rebuilt but what about the trans?
Fresh motor is always tight. But like as has been mentioned, make sure you have clutch adjusted properly as well as primary chain.
Is it still manual advance? If so you can retard the timer about half way and that will also help with the starting procedure.
Is it still manual advance? If so you can retard the timer about half way and that will also help with the starting procedure.
depending on what piston rings and pistons that were used < the drag on the cylinder could be grately increased one type verces the other
also if the new motor has been sitting and you said nothing about that - it might have dryed out so to speak sooo put a table spoon of marvil oil in the plug holes and walk it around with the kicker a couple times a day, and see if that gets it lubed up BUT i have seen transmission countershaft bearings that have gone bad do that as well, can cause the stiffness in the kicker -- so try the marvil NOT motor oil and see if that helps with the problem -- jz
also if the new motor has been sitting and you said nothing about that - it might have dryed out so to speak sooo put a table spoon of marvil oil in the plug holes and walk it around with the kicker a couple times a day, and see if that gets it lubed up BUT i have seen transmission countershaft bearings that have gone bad do that as well, can cause the stiffness in the kicker -- so try the marvil NOT motor oil and see if that helps with the problem -- jz
Thanks for the advice.clutch is adjusted perfect and the belt has right amount of play Yes the motor has been sitting for around 4 years after the rebiuld.the motor has been switched to 12v Malory electronic ignition, so the manual advance and retard is long gone. I do. Know my 64 pan with dual point likes to send people to the ER who have never seen the manual advance on the left lol.. Thanks again guys
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Ok guys thanks for all the tips.. The oil I put in the plug holes has made a huge difference.I noticed what I think is excessive crankcase pressure... When I pull the timing plug out and kick the bike a large around of air comes out the hole.also a large around of pressure in the oil tank as well.is this something to be concerned about or is this cause by a blocked crankcase vent? Restricted vent?Or does the motor need to be ran to cycle oil throughout the entire engine?..Or is this normal before the rings seat and break in? Thanks again guys
you need to put gas in it a battery and fire it up take it for 3 or 4 - 10 min rides to ( size up the motor ) and let it cool of after each ride --before you look for something that is not wrong -
i would get an eye dropper or a turkey baster and put a 1/2 quart of oil into the timing hole so as the motor starts for the first time the rings and pistons get splashed right away and the oil pump return is not runing dry for 3 min as it the lower unit is bone dry
ITS been sitting for years just my take -- jz
i would get an eye dropper or a turkey baster and put a 1/2 quart of oil into the timing hole so as the motor starts for the first time the rings and pistons get splashed right away and the oil pump return is not runing dry for 3 min as it the lower unit is bone dry
ITS been sitting for years just my take -- jz








