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Deisel Harley. Which bikes had the same 5 speed internals as my 88flt?

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Old 04-23-2018, 10:26 AM
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Default Deisel Harley. Which bikes had the same 5 speed internals as my 88flt?

*Diesel, wont let me edit title

I am building a three cylinder turbo diesel for my 88 FLT. I have been working on this project for a couple years and have it almost done. My question is "Now what other bikes can I do this on" The reason I used the 88FLT was the divorced tranny and wide down tubes on the frame. The Kubota slides between the frame tubes (With a little persuasion) and the trans allowed me to replace the tapered shaft with a +1" splined shaft (So I could shift the center of balance back to the middle of the bike and still line up the 3" belt drive).

Now I am interested in building my next one and was wondering what bikes use the same 5 speed tranny internals (because of the +1" mainshaft conversion) and which bikes had a similarly wide down tubes?




 

Last edited by Finmad; 04-23-2018 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:46 AM
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As far as I know, once you go to 5 speed splined, the tranny guts are pretty much the same up to 2006. In 94 they changed the gear pitch angle to lower the tranny gear whine.. It simply means you change one gear you have to change its mate. In 2001 they changed the shift drum components which requires the use of a different top cover.
 
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:19 PM
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The lower frame was probably similar through to 2008, when it was changed for a variety of reasons. So Max's comments above on the transmission are likely to be your limiting factor. I assume your engine is an in-line triple, across the frame? We want to see it running and some other details before we let you start on another one!
 
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:27 PM
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One thing to note is that you should tie the tranny and motor together on both sides with something pretty stiff.. The front motor mount with it's link is what keep the swingarm pointed in the right direction.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
One thing to note is that you should tie the tranny and motor together on both sides with something pretty stiff.. The front motor mount with it's link is what keep the swingarm pointed in the right direction.
I am leaving the tranny in the swing arm as setup by the factory. The front of the trans will have it's own tranny mount to secure it. I need to keep the two separate as the motor moves on isolators. The movement is absorbed in the belt (possible tensioner rig). I cant contact them or I transfer all the vibration and movement into the frame.

My goal is to be able to set this up as much as a simple engine swap as possible. I would like to keep as much the same as I can from the original bike(s)
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
The lower frame was probably similar through to 2008, when it was changed for a variety of reasons. So Max's comments above on the transmission are likely to be your limiting factor. I assume your engine is an in-line triple, across the frame? We want to see it running and some other details before we let you start on another one!

It is a Kubota 1105T (slightly modified), three cylinders across. it makes 65hp and 97ftlbs at 800rpm. I have driven one a buddy built and it has so much torque you can start off in 5th... It will light up the back tire at will. Plus "dusting" people at stop lights is always fun.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Finmad
I am leaving the tranny in the swing arm as setup by the factory. The front of the trans will have it's own tranny mount to secure it. I need to keep the two separate as the motor moves on isolators. The movement is absorbed in the belt (possible tensioner rig). I cant contact them or I transfer all the vibration and movement into the frame.

My goal is to be able to set this up as much as a simple engine swap as possible. I would like to keep as much the same as I can from the original bike(s)
I'm an engineer and wrote a piece on how the 'rubber-mount' Harleys work, which is what your donor bike is, based on the original patents for the design. I recommend you read my introductory post, to better understand what you are dealing with.

In summary, the original engine and transmission are bolted together and the swingarm is secured to the transmission casing. That entire assembly, along with the rear wheel, is suspended in the frame at the front of the engine and rear of the transmission. That relationship is fundamental to the design of our Touring bikes and is what Max referred to above.

With what you have told us so far, I cannot see how the transmission, with the rear wheel attached to it, is going to be adequately supported. In fact I am anxious about that! I agree with Max that your engine and the transmission should be firmly attached together, simply to provide structural integrity to your vehicle. Without it I hesitate to guess what that torque of your engine is going to do.....
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:41 AM
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grbrown is right. The tranny has to be included as part of the vibration isolation. You will have issues with the primary drive belt if you don't.. The FLHT rubber mount system rubber mounts the drive train at the swing arm, engine front and shocks so that the primary drive, engine to transmission, is rigid.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:56 AM
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OP, you have my full attention. I like guys like you; you start out with a vision of want to end up with and then climb every obstacle until you do
 

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Old 04-24-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I'm an engineer and wrote a piece on how the 'rubber-mount' Harleys work, which is what your donor bike is, based on the original patents for the design. I recommend you read my introductory post, to better understand what you are dealing with.

In summary, the original engine and transmission are bolted together and the swingarm is secured to the transmission casing. That entire assembly, along with the rear wheel, is suspended in the frame at the front of the engine and rear of the transmission. That relationship is fundamental to the design of our Touring bikes and is what Max referred to above.

With what you have told us so far, I cannot see how the transmission, with the rear wheel attached to it, is going to be adequately supported. In fact I am anxious about that! I agree with Max that your engine and the transmission should be firmly attached together, simply to provide structural integrity to your vehicle. Without it I hesitate to guess what that torque of your engine is going to do.....


All good insight. I am not so smart as to disregarded others knowledge. I can duplicate the same setup as the original motor. The front and back of the engine block can be on isolators and trans can be bolted to the motor. would that return the structural rigidity?

My concern is using a motor plate to join the trans and engine as I fear the longitudinal torque would fatigue the plate.
 


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