HARLEY BEGINNER QUESTION:

i have a 1998 sportster and i know im supposed to ride it for the first few minutes with the choke out when its cold and as its warming up half choke for another 5 minutes or so. cant remember exactly how long.... anyways...

however, its obviously reving higher then idle with the choke out and every time i try to put it into gear its grinding. i have to kick it quite hard to get it into first gear when cold! im sure theres a better technique for shifting when the engine is cold?

any help would highly appreciated guys!!! thanks!!

 

I typically push in the enrichener know within the first half mile of riding.

I'd check the clutch adjustment and fluid level to start with. If you have a service manual it can be real helpful.

 

Why not let it warm up in your driveway before leaving ? I’m sure it won’t take 5 minutes. Shut the choke/enricher/throttle advance etc off and then ride. I think you’re having difficulty because she is reving too high. If you have no patience and need to go then at least knock the choke down to half. Jmo

 

if your in that much of a hurry start in gear

 

thanks guys

 

I haven't seen this with harley, but ATVs, where I got to put the choke in to shift gears. Do you have a tach, whats it at? Like my idle a little high makes warming up easier. This sounds a little excessive though.

Was it always like this? Could it have intake leak? I don't have an XL, but I have never had an issue with big twin.

I vote for letting it warm up, unless bad time of day and neighbors,

 

The Sportster clunk!

I have a 2008 and a 2017 here. The 2008 going into 1st gear can be pretty disconcerting but has always done it and seems to be fine just get on with it. The 2017 is smoother going into 1st gear but still makes quite a healthy clunk.

If you press down gently then I suspect you will get the meshing of the gears as it goes into 1st. Just give the gear lever a firm quick press.

As for how long the enricher is required is going to vary bike to bike and only you will know as you get to know the bike how long it is required. There is no time limit other than turn off as soon as the engine will allow.

 

it will idle a tad higher since the enrichment circuit open an air bleed with the extra fuel. on my 01 sport, maybe a minute or 2 at the most. it is an air cooled machine, all you need is the cylinders to pick up a little heat. in the winter, i roll it out the shop and crank it, close up the shop. i mount it and drop enrichment out shift to first keeping rpm with throttle and ride to the gate, enrichment back on, push it through and close the gate, enrichment off and ride.
most hd's are setup lean so you may have to change pilot and adjust mix. if your normal idle is 1000, then shoot for a 200 rpm increase, past that, really not helping matters. since i run long duration cams, i have to idle there anyways as stock idle is a death idle, sure it sounds lump and cool but hard on the crank.

 

I had older clutch that would grind when down shifting if speed was to fast. I noticed it when coasting down, and shifting to fast. I end up replacing clutch bearing and plates. I just did bearing since it was high miles.

 

You can push in the choke to adjust the idle speed so that the bike revs closer to 1000 rpm. You don't need to keep the choke pulled out all the way until it will run without the choke. Full choke at start then slowly push the choke lever in part way.

What I do on carb'd bikes with a choke/enrichner, full choke at start, push the choke in gradually as the bike warms up. I usually start the bike, then get my helmet and gloves on, then push in the choke until the bike idles at about 1000 rpm, then put into first and ride away. Pushing the choke off after a couple of blocks. If you leave the choke on too much after it starts you will see some black smoke, running too rich. So you can use that as a guide as well as to where the choke should be.

You'll also want to make sure your clutch is adjusted with the proper slack.