Question about clutch basket
#1
Question about clutch basket
I've got a '93 FLTC w/ 32,000 miles (actual). It leaks (bad!) around the main shaft coming from the tranny. When I go to pull the clutch basket off the shaft, will t come off in one complete piece or do pop the snap ring and take it off in pieces?
I 'am new here so any help would be muchly appreciated
I 'am new here so any help would be muchly appreciated
#2
RE: Question about clutch basket
A official Harley Davidson motor manual will be the best money you can spend on your HD.. I highly recommend you purchase one before starting any projects other than oil changes! You will find answers to this and many other questions you wouldn't think to ask!! You can find em used on EBAY alot cheaper than new.
Good luck with your leak....
Good luck with your leak....
#3
RE: Question about clutch basket
I have a service manuel for the bike. In the middle of chapter 6, where it discusses primary disassembly, it suddenly discusses clutch disassembly. Then back to pulling chain tensioner, etc.However, sure looks like it come off as one complete unit. I thought maybe someone who has done it, may shed a little light.
Thanks for answering tho-
The service manual I have is 1994 vintage and I hope HD has put more effort into proofing. Mine has missing words, paragraphs in wrong order, pix of carbs in the electrical section, pix of headlight disassembly in the motor section....just lots of errors
Thanks for answering tho-
The service manual I have is 1994 vintage and I hope HD has put more effort into proofing. Mine has missing words, paragraphs in wrong order, pix of carbs in the electrical section, pix of headlight disassembly in the motor section....just lots of errors
#4
RE: Question about clutch basket
Ihave an older book that covers 85 thru 90. In 90 they changed the clutch to what you have now. I just finished reading it and in big bold letters it says "Do not remove the snap ring without a clutch spring compressor tool" The spring plate has alot of torque on it and could ruin your day for ya if it comes out on its own!! If you need I can try to scan the pages and send em to ya....
Let me know.
Let me know.
#5
#6
#7
RE: Question about clutch basket
I'll try to get the ifo to ya later today. My shovelhead service manual will cover your bike. By the way, dont go to a bike shop and ask for parts for a "78 Dynanarrow glide"!! No such critter...... Dyna's didnt enter the HD scene till a few years later. Just '78 Low Rider' unless you hand built your bike of course. In which case my shovelhead manual wouldn't do ya any good.
Did ya look in the 'Shovelhead" section of this forum? The info may already be there!
Let me know. My scanner is really slow.
jim
Did ya look in the 'Shovelhead" section of this forum? The info may already be there!
Let me know. My scanner is really slow.
jim
Trending Topics
#8
RE: Question about clutch basket
Now dont take this the wrong way but,you must have somewhat more than basic skills with hand tools, a strong mechanical inclinationand alotta common sense to do this!!! And it is alway better to read it from an service manual as they have pictures that can help you relate to the task at hand.
OK..... Here ishow I do mine. If you choose to do it this way OK. However, if something goes wrong, remember I think you should wait for themotor manual......or buy a Chilton till your realmanual gets here.
I am assuming you have already removed the primary cover and disconnected the battery negative lead and covered it so it won't accidentaly ground again?!!!!!! That part is Critical!!! I have a friend who is missing the tip of one finger and the first joint of another because he figured he could do it without disconnecting the battery!!! Sucks to get your fingers between the the clutch sprocket and the primary chain! Anyway, tools needed: an air wrench , a clutch hub puller, or if you are creative make you own once you see the clutch hub as it is ready to be pulled, a flat washer 1/8" thick, 1-3/4" dia and 3/8" inside dia. I used a flat piece of steel after I drilled a 3/8 hole in the center and notched one end, a 1-1/2" socket and a 1-1/8" deep socket.
Now. remove the clutch adjusting screw locknut in the center of the clutch hub. Place the washer or steel you just made over the adjusting screw and reinstall the locknut. Tighten it until the3 (or 5 depending on the type of clutch hub you have) pressure plate adjusting nuts are loose enough you can wiggle them with your fingers. Remove the nuts. Pull the pressure plate assembly off the hub. pull each clutch plate and steel plate off. Make sure you get them all. Stack them so they will lay flat.Now use a flashlight and so you can see three spring clips that fit over each threaded clutch hub stud. Remove them and the tin cover behind them.
((Note::: When you remove the clutch basket (or shell) all those roller bearings will fall out. Be ready for that so you dont lose any.))
IF you are using air tools, Remove the primary chain tensioner bolt, then remove the engine compensating sprocket nut, then remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutchbasket atthe same time. Now remove the clutch hub nut, LEFT hand thread!!!!! You can ruin your clutch hub by turning the wrong way!!
Now you will need that clutch hub puller or what ever creation you think will work. Just remember to protect the tranny mainshaft threads and pull using even pressure on all sides. If you are using a clutch hub puller, tighten the nuts about 1/2 to 1 turn each in an even rotation..
AS you reinstall these parts pay particular attention to the Key on the tranny mainshaft.Make sure it lines up with the clutch hub!!
Torque specs are 50-60 ft lbs for the clutch hub nut (LEFT hand thread) and 80-100 ft lbs on the enginecompensating sprocket nut.
Dont forget to replace your hub nut seal and get all new gaskets, primary cover get 'print seal' type, inspection cover gasket and derby cover gasket. Also when you are reinstalling the roller bearings you can hold them in place with good bearing grease.
I'll check in with ya tomorrow..... Good luck!!
!!!!!! I forgot to add that you need to adjust the 3 (or 5) nuts holding the pressure plate spring assembly together so there is 1-1/32" between the pressure plate and the bottom edge of the plate that holds the springs in place. Measure in several places and get it close as you can!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post