Hey everyone, I went to install my new SE compensator and couldn't get the old rotor off because the inner primary was in the way. I started on friday afternoon after making a primary locking tool from 1/4 X 1 1/2 flat bar. Everything went well until I tried to get the old rotor off. I removed the clutch and old comp then, all of the inner primay bolts. I was able to pull the inner primary cover out and down and get the rotor almost off but never all the way. It looks like I will have to pull the inner primary all the way off and that is going to be a PITA. I think I will have to pull the starter and that requires removing the oil tank ( as far as I can tell ). Does anyone have any suggestions? (I really don't want to grind down the inside of the inner primary ) What really sucked was that I was going on a ride the next day early and ended up putting it back together without changing the comp because I didn't have time to pull the starter.

Respects,
Spanky

 

Good engineering , isn't it? Some have more interference than others. I machined about 1/16" in the contact area to just get it off on the softail. Most require inner removal. Dumb design.
Ron

 

picked mine up today. man, those are some seriously heavy-duty spring discs. the whole unit is built like a brick crap house. a definitive upgrade. now, if only the guys at sohb would get the new wedge unit going i could get it all put together. also recieved the vp92 this week.

 

Don't know what bike you have but on mine I pulled all but one(loosened it off),tapped inner counter-clockwise, pivoting on last bolt and it dropped enough to get rotor off. Rock, you will like how that VP92 works.

 

Sorry I didn't include that ...I have an 08 heritage softail classic. I know some models like baggers have the oil bag under the trans which, should make it easier to remove the starter.

Respects,
Spanky

 

lonewolf...ive been told by some trusted sources that the vp92 is the way to go and im sure it will be a good add ;-)

btw, all the primary work is the upfront homework for the HQ107 in the near future
:-0

 

This is exactly how I got my rotor to come out. I left the bolt in the center; behind the adjuster loose, and removed all the others; then used a wood block to bang on the back end of the starter to move the inner primary unit out from the eng/tranny just about 1/2 inch. Then I pried down gently on the front part of the inner primary to give me just enough clearance to get the rotor off.
Sounds kind of scary; but really no problem.

Here is the problem for us now .......... I talked to a very nice (knowledgeable) gal up at SOHB, and she said that the Hydraulic Chain Tension Adjusters for the newer ('07-'09) bikes won't really be ready until April or May!

I guess I will just wait to see; and then buy one for the late Spring "project".

good luck,

redrazor

 

ouch!!!...that'll leave a mark..lol

really didn't want to have to go in there twice. looks like i might have to now :-(

 

I used a die grinder with a carbide burr made for cutting aluminum , I wrapped the rotor and clutch with rags and in 5 minutes I removed all the ridge that was cast in the inner primary.You don't need that extra ridge.You will notice that the new rotor is bigger in diameter. so grind the ridge flush.Also the Belleville spring washers are way too loose on the rotor and hub.There is .043" clearance on the rotor boss and .028" on the splined hub.I welded four beads about .0375" long at 90 degrees to the inner bore of washers and machined them .003" larger than than the rotor boss and hub diameter.If you install them loose they will rest eccentric and create an imbalance.I calculated that if they were all to one side, there would be a .12 ounce imbalance which amounts to 8.2 lbs of centrifugal force at 4000 rpm and .84 lbs at 2000rpm.Enough to make my dentures rattle, not as much as the bad crank I had HD replace at 2000 miles on my 2007 FLHX.

 

Yes, I noticed the piloting discreprency on the largest discs and correct, it will add a bit of shake. When I do the 113 I will also tig 4@90* for better alignment. I'll compress the spring disc and then do the dia check for what's needed for dia reduction with about .003-.005 at that spec. As in your case I used a die grinder initially and finished up with a drum sander. Looks quite good actually and no more bs from the primary when doing rotor ,stator, or main seal.
It would appear you cannot take something out of a box and use it as is I have the same disease.
Ron