Still fightin this genny shovel - noticed that the 4spd clutch adjuster screw is bottoming before the clutch rod reaches its full backward movement - in other words - I tighten the adjuster screw down and it binds - but the arm still has movement backwards - there is a problem because I do not have enough throw to fully disengage the clutch - I have not run into this problem before - this is a no ears older 4 speed

 

Does the adjuster screw still have the ball in it? Have you checked the throw-out bearing?

 

yeah - the ball is there - I have a few adjuster screws - the type with the ball gives a little more adjustment - it seems like the screw just stops - it appears to be sticking fairly far out of the pressure plate too - compared to my other 4 speeds - I'll take a few pics right now - I guess I'll have to pull the kicker cover - would rather do this with the tranny out of the bike but I'm assuming I can do it with the tranny in the frame

 

Here are some more pics - not sure what the little 1/8NPT plus is there in the kicker cover - does not seem to do anything - ferg

 

There's a fair chance the guts have been mixed and matched in the tranny as there's a couple mainshaft and clutch pushrod lengths and the older style no ears case used the shorter guts, don't get the combo right or the end of the pushrod is worn down it will act like what you are dealing with. Sounds & looks like somebody may have used a longer mainshaft to get that belt system to work but the short pushrod.

That's an aftermarket kicker cover also so who knows which throw out bearings in there, the old style big heavy one of the cheap flinger setup both of which use different pushrods, The 1/8" plug has nothing to do with the adjustment just an oil level thing.

 

okay - so here is some more dope - clutch tamer was in there but no steel plate in the first position as directions say for the tamer - this caused the fiber plate to not engage the clutch drum - the tamer has a fairly thick lip that causes the fiber plate to hang above the drum surface - so I looked at the directions and now I see that a steel disc also rides on this lip - I have no farkin idea how this stupid tamer works with the discs - anybody know???

 

Without the shim kit that comes with those all you can do is put it back like it was and hope the other guy did it right, you can't adjust it. Check to see if you have the correct number of plates in order , you add another steel I don't think you'll have enough thread on the hub studs for the nuts to seat properly.

 

So we got this done - still not happy with the big *** roller bearings but I machined a steel disc to fit over the OD of the tamer lip - stock steel plates do not clear the tamer retainer - the guy that owned it before me put a Barnett 6 plate kit in as well - this is a double wammy - those kits have very thin fiber discs which caused even more problems with the tamer - these thin discs would also cause a problem with the Ramjet retainer because the fiber lip is too thin and the darn thing will rub on the collar of the ramjet - so with the tamer - you need a steel disc to shim the fiber to clear the ramjet retainer lip - the original tamer steel was not there so I cut a copy out of an existing disc - I'd ride tonight but with no tags - dark - not sure of all fasteners being tight - maybe I'll wait. ferg

 

I run a 6 plate kelvar in mine with the ramjet with no issues. Tamer kit didn't have a steel it was 2 aluminium parts with 2 type shims one went between the center cup and the hub around the end of the mainshaft, it added clearance if the plastic disc was too tight and dragged. The others were a larger ID thin one to go between the lip on the center cup and the aluminium plate that holds the plastic against the hub bearing edge, these tightened up the clearance if it was loose. Could be that belt hub has the bearing race edge flush instead of recessed a bit like most, that would cause what your dealing with.

Does the hub itself still have the thin fiber disc on it that goes against the back of the clutch housing ? Some guys remove those and put in a free floating nylon one that tends to get lost or chewed up with an open setup like that and this will allow the hub to ride back deeper against the hub playing with adjustments.

 

Yes - two shim points - under the small cup and under the top lip of the small cup that holds the retainer at the right clearance - the tamer instructions say that a steel disc is added before the first fiber plate - I bought a tamer kit once and I remember the extra plate - this plate is required because the lip of the retainer of the tamer sits fairly high and interferes with the fiber disc - the fiber disc will not engage the back of the drum - the extra metal disc shims the fiber disc out so it clears the retainer lip - pretty sure this is how it works - seems to be in the instructions and works in my bike - I should have measured the tamer retainer lip and fiber disc - they both run on top of the drum - they hold the drum in place - like the ramjet - I'll measure a ramjet thickness and the barnett fiber height - maybe the ramjet is thinner than the height of the fiber on the

tamer pdf here

https://zodiac.nl/docs/instructions/291266.pdf