Got me a shovel
#101
I got the last of the shiny bits back today:
First the fork lowers which have been polished. I should have new seals, clips and dust boots for these tomorrow then I can rebuild the forks.
What weight fork oil would anyone recommend? I am reusing the OEM springs for now.
And next, some parts of the triple trees back from chrome plating. The lower tree with the fork stem was in good condition already. It's just off at a local engineering shop having the lower stem bearing pressed on. Once that's done, I can crack on with the front end....
First the fork lowers which have been polished. I should have new seals, clips and dust boots for these tomorrow then I can rebuild the forks.
What weight fork oil would anyone recommend? I am reusing the OEM springs for now.
And next, some parts of the triple trees back from chrome plating. The lower tree with the fork stem was in good condition already. It's just off at a local engineering shop having the lower stem bearing pressed on. Once that's done, I can crack on with the front end....
#102
#103
#104
#105
Off in a different direction today.....I started wiring up the bars. I want a really clean looking front end, so decided to use internal wiring for all the electrical. I am also using Motogadget bar end turn signals and their "m-Button" unit to reduce the amount of wiring. The m-Button sits inside the bars and takes the input from all of the handlebar switches (apart from the kill switch) and then converts it to a bus signal that communicates with the m-Unit "brain" under the seat by a single wire.
Here's the m-Button - it's about an inch long.
So first up, drilling the bars. A drill jig makes this easy - although a sharper drill bit would have helped. Then I enlarged the holes with a cone bit and deburred them well.
Then I had to enlarge the central hole with a Dremel tool so that I could slide the m-Button in and out. Then I ran the wires for the power for the bar end indicators
Next up is pulling the m-Button wires up and out of the holes in the bars at the switch blocks. They are long enough to allow easy soldering to the switches.
One that's done, I should have a very tidy wiring loom coming out of the bars - it will have power for L and R turn signals, a wire for the kill switch, a ground and finally a single wire to go to the m-Unit. 5 wires total. I will terminate these in an AMP Superseal connector under the tank.
Then off in an another direction.....I fitted an LBV chain tensioner.
I still need to trim the threaded rod coming out of it....
Here's the m-Button - it's about an inch long.
So first up, drilling the bars. A drill jig makes this easy - although a sharper drill bit would have helped. Then I enlarged the holes with a cone bit and deburred them well.
Then I had to enlarge the central hole with a Dremel tool so that I could slide the m-Button in and out. Then I ran the wires for the power for the bar end indicators
Next up is pulling the m-Button wires up and out of the holes in the bars at the switch blocks. They are long enough to allow easy soldering to the switches.
One that's done, I should have a very tidy wiring loom coming out of the bars - it will have power for L and R turn signals, a wire for the kill switch, a ground and finally a single wire to go to the m-Unit. 5 wires total. I will terminate these in an AMP Superseal connector under the tank.
Then off in an another direction.....I fitted an LBV chain tensioner.
I still need to trim the threaded rod coming out of it....
#106
Off in a different direction today.....I started wiring up the bars. I want a really clean looking front end, so decided to use internal wiring for all the electrical. I am also using Motogadget bar end turn signals and their "m-Button" unit to reduce the amount of wiring. The m-Button sits inside the bars and takes the input from all of the handlebar switches (apart from the kill switch) and then converts it to a bus signal that communicates with the m-Unit "brain" under the seat by a single wire.
Here's the m-Button - it's about an inch long.
So first up, drilling the bars. A drill jig makes this easy - although a sharper drill bit would have helped. Then I enlarged the holes with a cone bit and deburred them well.
Then I had to enlarge the central hole with a Dremel tool so that I could slide the m-Button in and out. Then I ran the wires for the power for the bar end indicators
Next up is pulling the m-Button wires up and out of the holes in the bars at the switch blocks. They are long enough to allow easy soldering to the switches.
One that's done, I should have a very tidy wiring loom coming out of the bars - it will have power for L and R turn signals, a wire for the kill switch, a ground and finally a single wire to go to the m-Unit. 5 wires total. I will terminate these in an AMP Superseal connector under the tank.
Then off in an another direction.....I fitted an LBV chain tensioner.
I still need to trim the threaded rod coming out of it....
Here's the m-Button - it's about an inch long.
So first up, drilling the bars. A drill jig makes this easy - although a sharper drill bit would have helped. Then I enlarged the holes with a cone bit and deburred them well.
Then I had to enlarge the central hole with a Dremel tool so that I could slide the m-Button in and out. Then I ran the wires for the power for the bar end indicators
Next up is pulling the m-Button wires up and out of the holes in the bars at the switch blocks. They are long enough to allow easy soldering to the switches.
One that's done, I should have a very tidy wiring loom coming out of the bars - it will have power for L and R turn signals, a wire for the kill switch, a ground and finally a single wire to go to the m-Unit. 5 wires total. I will terminate these in an AMP Superseal connector under the tank.
Then off in an another direction.....I fitted an LBV chain tensioner.
I still need to trim the threaded rod coming out of it....
#107
#108
#109
THe chain tensioner is from LBV Engineering - nice people to deal with:
http://lbvengchaintensioners.com
http://lbvengchaintensioners.com