Hey all!

Working on a '77 Super Glide, it had a kickstart only belt drive inside the original primary cover. It chucked the belt shortly after getting it running, I decided to convert it back to chain with an electric start clutch drum so I can add a starter in the future. I used the clutch hub and plates/steels that were on my bike, with a very nice used clutch drum, chain, and compensator I got from a friend. I isolated the primary to run a bit of ATF in to lube the chain.

It's all together and works great short of some clutch drag. Enough to make it clunk pretty hard into 1st, start creeping, and it's impossible to get back into neutral while running. I've tried many different things with no change. The discs and steels were in good shape, and I ensured they slide freely on the fingers. The clutch is properly adjusted, I even tried adjusting it a bit "too tight" and it still drags. I also tried installing the plates dry and soaked in some ATF.

I understand some drag is part of the nature of these, but I know what I have could be better. My reading seems to point to the Primo Pro Clutch being the end all fix, but I don't want to spend that kind of money just yet.... Do the long bearing kits with plastic retainers help as much as they claim? If I buy new discs what works best in an isolated primary? I'd appreciate everyones thoughts with any experience here!

 

Does your clutch look like this? Note what he says at in for turning too far in.
This makes sure you get the no free play for the backoff.
This needs to be done on all clutches. If not done, you do not get the full travel necessary to break plates. That usually cause drag. Could be your set up does not have damper spring correct or clutch plates are tight. How did the slide in?
recondition of clutch

 

Plates slide free on the fingers, and the fingers are in good shape, not all beat up and grooved. Same for the dogs that locate the steels in the drum. I had watched that video on adjustment... and tried a few different things playing with the adjustment. I have the 1/4in or so of free play at the lever, I also tried taking the free play completely out and lightly preloading the throwout just to see if it would take the drag out and it didn't. As for the Hunting Harley's video, I'm sure there's good info in there, but I can't make myself sit through his videos...

I just got in from taking it apart again and trying some things. I scuffed the plates up to try and take any glazing off, and cleaned everything very thoroughly putting it back together. It works much better, but it still drags. Outside of the designed freeplay in the clutch lever, its entire stroke moves the pressure plate, though it doesn't move much. I'm wondering if there's some stretch in the cable or something?

 

That guy in the long second video is a little distracted. I would not think cable stretch is a problem since you have an adjuster for it. Why I thru videos in there is to see the big picture on how to adjust theses old bikes. Especially when modified. I personally do not know how much movement you should see when you do your lever.

 

I would get a plastic clutch tamer. They help a lot with the drag. Holds the basket in so it doesn't walk out when you pull the clutch. I have them in all my 4 and 5 speed bikes with that style clutch, because they work.

You should be able to pull in the clutch and turn the pressure plate by hand. If you can't, it's not releasing enough.

1/4" play it probably too much. But don't preload the throw out bearing or you will wipe it out in short order.

 

Is this it? How does it work?

 

One of these, the have 3 sets of various depth pockets held in place by snap rings, You try the different settings till get very little movement out of the hub itself it helps stops the in & out floating the shell does , works with 3 or 5 finger hubs, looks cheap but they actually work well. One of those, an aluminium pressure plate and do a proper setup and adjustment on the 10 springs and the cable they will take 90% of the stupid out a shovel clutch. Been running that setup for decades now.

 

That is some antique system. The driven disk by riveted in keys and the driven transmit thru pins. Is that how it really is? Looks like something someone came up in their shed that had Harley-Davidson Motor Company on the door 100+ years ago?

 

Actually the 3-pin design is a modern upgraded version because original was just a 2-rivet pattern

 

Hooked up well enough I spun the output shaft in the flywheel, ugly it may be but setup right it doesn't get more durable 😀