couple of things the jugs are scored as you seen and the carbon is the guides and tin seals not the rubber ones - this motor has been very hot in traffic my guess - as the magnets have also given way
1 - cast iron guides only - blue rubber seals - stainless valves only < check your valves my guess some are steel .002 intake and .003 exhaust guide clearance
2 - cast pistons work the best with moly top hastings ring set honed to .003 < todays fuel
3 - the dyna trigger your lucky that is a 90s unit and the magnet trigger is alloy not plastic < buy a new one re use the alloy trigger - sometimes they do a run on in timing as the plastic is not as heavy as the alloy and does not come back all the way making the idle move around < adding timing at idle you also want the bearing advance unit not the pin one you have
I understand the difference in growth between cast and forged but all you see from S&S is forged. What are the original pistons? Are you trying to reduce crank case pressure / blow-by by running the cast pistons vs forged pistons?
Does anyone have a pic of a fixture a shovelhead jug would be mounted in to hone it? Im assuming a top and bottom ring bolted to the ends. Trying to see if its worth it for me to do the jugs myself up here.
I quickly made a tool out of some steel plate and a combination of other tools to pull the liners out of the crankcase. They came out easy peasy. Ill split the crank case later this evening. Found a guy I can send the crank and liners to. Reason is as much as I want a 96" sidewinder shovel, I dont want to hog the cases out and the cost as well. $900 Canadian to do my liners and crank vs $2500USD to go bigger which leads to bigger heads etc etc.
Last edited by hellonewman; 08-01-2018 at 04:08 PM.
07-31-2018, 06:37 PM
