71 FLH Shovelhead
#381
#382
#383
no have not bumped into the ford stuff - this stuff for exhaust the gray - yamma bond 4 for anything oil threaded - honda bond almost the same but not hardens as much for case half's - the black in that type silicone has an adhesive in it that and its real helpful - and 574 in Teflon paste
have other stuff but all of that above is a go to for specific applications
have other stuff but all of that above is a go to for specific applications
#384
Thanks John...I figured it was something like that. Went to auto zone and bought the Permatex "Optimum" grey gasket maker which is high temp (700 degrees) and rigid torque.
Also bought the Permatex graphite anti seize lubricant...read somewhere on this forum that it works so the slip-ons don't seize to the head pipes.
Also bought the Permatex graphite anti seize lubricant...read somewhere on this forum that it works so the slip-ons don't seize to the head pipes.
#385
Just making sure the Paughco 735-1 clears.
Time to purchase the V-twin Replica 28 VT #30-3188 so I can open up the center and install everything. Plan to secure the slip-ons to the left rear crossover pipes and the front right head pipe before installing on the bike. The clamps to secure the slip-ons to the head pipe are also the mounting points to the support tubes.
Time to purchase the V-twin Replica 28 VT #30-3188 so I can open up the center and install everything. Plan to secure the slip-ons to the left rear crossover pipes and the front right head pipe before installing on the bike. The clamps to secure the slip-ons to the head pipe are also the mounting points to the support tubes.
Last edited by hscic; 02-15-2019 at 09:31 PM.
#386
Removed my Paughco 734TM 2-2 exhaust system and installed the muffler support tubes which was missing when I bought the bike.
Which in your opinion is a better exhaust gasket? Both are Genuine James gaskets. I used the one on the right side initially but it leaked. The crushed wire actually eliminated the leaks but seats funny like the flange is not straight/square or aligned. Thought if I used the James flat gasket with the Permatex grey gasket maker sealant, it would also eliminate the leaks and seat better in the heads. Thoughts?
Which in your opinion is a better exhaust gasket? Both are Genuine James gaskets. I used the one on the right side initially but it leaked. The crushed wire actually eliminated the leaks but seats funny like the flange is not straight/square or aligned. Thought if I used the James flat gasket with the Permatex grey gasket maker sealant, it would also eliminate the leaks and seat better in the heads. Thoughts?
#387
I think a lot of those joints leak. Sad to say, I don’t think that most of of our customers care too much about that.
I think the same way as yourself, I always use a clear high temp’ sealant sparingly.
We prefer to not use anything on those joints. Occasionally we’ll use some clear high temp silicone, please make sure you clear up the excess before you start the engine.
#388
#389
2 things - usually when the gray wire that comes out of the cam cover has a hard kink in it the interior wires plastic coating is cracked leaving some of the wiring exposed - not always but usually
and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically
one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically
one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
#390
2 things - usually when the gray wire that comes out of the cam cover has a hard kink in it the interior wires plastic coating is cracked leaving some of the wiring exposed - not always but usually
and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically
one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically
one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
The kink is just the angle of the picture. There is no kink in the gray wire. Here are better pics.
About those wires running along the frame....I believe those are related to the neutral switch that the previous owner disconnected but just guessing. Those wires although zip tied along the frame goes nowhere....it is terminated. So it appears I could probably remove those wires altogether....perhaps the other end was hard to get to but those wires do bug me. Not sure how the PO bypassed the neutral switch.
Electrically, the bike runs as it should except for the neutral switch as I am able to start the bike in gear while pulling the clutch and does not need to be in neutral to start...which I prefer anyway. Looks like the wires are coming from the ignition circuit breaker and being terminated.
Thanks again for the input.
Last edited by hscic; 02-17-2019 at 08:54 PM.