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71 FLH Shovelhead

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  #381  
Old 02-15-2019, 05:17 PM
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  #382  
Old 02-15-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
Have you ever tried the ford diesel sealant? I use it on car engines and exhaust flanges after using it as a ford tech for years. It doesn't show up much when used on aluminum engines. Comes in a short tube for a calking gun.
 
  #383  
Old 02-15-2019, 08:35 PM
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no have not bumped into the ford stuff - this stuff for exhaust the gray - yamma bond 4 for anything oil threaded - honda bond almost the same but not hardens as much for case half's - the black in that type silicone has an adhesive in it that and its real helpful - and 574 in Teflon paste

have other stuff but all of that above is a go to for specific applications
 
  #384  
Old 02-15-2019, 09:11 PM
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Thanks John...I figured it was something like that. Went to auto zone and bought the Permatex "Optimum" grey gasket maker which is high temp (700 degrees) and rigid torque.

Also bought the Permatex graphite anti seize lubricant...read somewhere on this forum that it works so the slip-ons don't seize to the head pipes.
 
  #385  
Old 02-15-2019, 09:26 PM
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Just making sure the Paughco 735-1 clears.



Time to purchase the V-twin Replica 28 VT #30-3188 so I can open up the center and install everything. Plan to secure the slip-ons to the left rear crossover pipes and the front right head pipe before installing on the bike. The clamps to secure the slip-ons to the head pipe are also the mounting points to the support tubes.
 

Last edited by hscic; 02-15-2019 at 09:31 PM.
  #386  
Old 02-15-2019, 10:41 PM
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Removed my Paughco 734TM 2-2 exhaust system and installed the muffler support tubes which was missing when I bought the bike.


Which in your opinion is a better exhaust gasket? Both are Genuine James gaskets. I used the one on the right side initially but it leaked. The crushed wire actually eliminated the leaks but seats funny like the flange is not straight/square or aligned. Thought if I used the James flat gasket with the Permatex grey gasket maker sealant, it would also eliminate the leaks and seat better in the heads. Thoughts?
 
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pjb
runs fine. I just know it leaks exhaust at the crossover because I can see the effects it leaves in the area.
The tab on the pipe that bolts it to the primary cover near the solenoid kinda dictates how it fits together.
This is what Paughco said about their crossover head pipes joints.....

I think a lot of those joints leak. Sad to say, I don’t think that most of of our customers care too much about that.
I think the same way as yourself, I always use a clear high temp’ sealant sparingly.

We prefer to not use anything on those joints. Occasionally we’ll use some clear high temp silicone, please make sure you clear up the excess before you start the engine.

 
  #388  
Old 02-17-2019, 03:42 PM
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Even the little things bug me....always trying to move towards correct.

Before with raised "1" timing cover 32513-77

After with "FLH" decal 32584-70 from Rick's Restoration Decal's
 
  #389  
Old 02-17-2019, 04:58 PM
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2 things - usually when the gray wire that comes out of the cam cover has a hard kink in it the interior wires plastic coating is cracked leaving some of the wiring exposed - not always but usually

and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically

one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
 
  #390  
Old 02-17-2019, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
2 things - usually when the gray wire that comes out of the cam cover has a hard kink in it the interior wires plastic coating is cracked leaving some of the wiring exposed - not always but usually

and the collection of wires under that should not be in that location as nothing runs along that rail under the floor board electrically

one of the ends seems to be soldered and the other is crimped -- really
Thanks for the observation....

The kink is just the angle of the picture. There is no kink in the gray wire. Here are better pics.



About those wires running along the frame....I believe those are related to the neutral switch that the previous owner disconnected but just guessing. Those wires although zip tied along the frame goes nowhere....it is terminated. So it appears I could probably remove those wires altogether....perhaps the other end was hard to get to but those wires do bug me. Not sure how the PO bypassed the neutral switch.

Electrically, the bike runs as it should except for the neutral switch as I am able to start the bike in gear while pulling the clutch and does not need to be in neutral to start...which I prefer anyway. Looks like the wires are coming from the ignition circuit breaker and being terminated.

Thanks again for the input.
 

Last edited by hscic; 02-17-2019 at 08:54 PM.


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