71 FLH Shovelhead
#911
a number of reasons and then some can be fixed by just driving it for an hour and purging the system
try not to fix things that are not broken - in time what really brakes will be enough of a headache
oil pump check ball seat and ball are not sealing
the return oiling system for the primary has carried metal chips from the sprockets and chain into the breather valve pocket and then - scoring the engine cases < You Asked
same stuff was then send into the oil pump return gearing and now that's been damaged and possibly scored the alloy oil pump body
drive it stop asking questions about a shovel that has not seen the open highway in for ever and has been started and stopped 20 times past couple months with out letting it purge its self on the open road for an hour < did I say an hours drive might help hope so
try not to fix things that are not broken - in time what really brakes will be enough of a headache
oil pump check ball seat and ball are not sealing
the return oiling system for the primary has carried metal chips from the sprockets and chain into the breather valve pocket and then - scoring the engine cases < You Asked
same stuff was then send into the oil pump return gearing and now that's been damaged and possibly scored the alloy oil pump body
drive it stop asking questions about a shovel that has not seen the open highway in for ever and has been started and stopped 20 times past couple months with out letting it purge its self on the open road for an hour < did I say an hours drive might help hope so
#912
a number of reasons and then some can be fixed by just driving it for an hour and purging the system
try not to fix things that are not broken - in time what really brakes will be enough of a headache
oil pump check ball seat and ball are not sealing
the return oiling system for the primary has carried metal chips from the sprockets and chain into the breather valve pocket and then - scoring the engine cases < You Asked
same stuff was then send into the oil pump return gearing and now that's been damaged and possibly scored the alloy oil pump body
drive it stop asking questions about a shovel that has not seen the open highway in for ever and has been started and stopped 20 times past couple months with out letting it purge its self on the open road for an hour < did I say an hours drive might help hope so
try not to fix things that are not broken - in time what really brakes will be enough of a headache
oil pump check ball seat and ball are not sealing
the return oiling system for the primary has carried metal chips from the sprockets and chain into the breather valve pocket and then - scoring the engine cases < You Asked
same stuff was then send into the oil pump return gearing and now that's been damaged and possibly scored the alloy oil pump body
drive it stop asking questions about a shovel that has not seen the open highway in for ever and has been started and stopped 20 times past couple months with out letting it purge its self on the open road for an hour < did I say an hours drive might help hope so
Wasn't fixing anything but was just checking if the oil return was functioning properly...but then had oil puking out of the breather for no apparent reason....and was wondering why that occurred.
Everything is back in place and will hit the freeway and take a ride to the dealership when the weather clears up...which is about an hour round trip all freeway. Just hope it doesn't puke when I start her up.
Update: I took off my catch can and started the bike to clear the system....now I only feel air being push out of the hose.
Last edited by hscic; 05-04-2019 at 11:29 PM.
#914
#915
its a mail dog thing marking its spot
nothing in my shop is started with out a bucket under it - a restored dark green 1949 came in last week did not look at it till today and with out even moving it around it has a 1/2 quart of oil under it -- no I did not do the resto but it can happen to any of them at any time for no apparent reason some do it all the time some don't
and then you will always have the guy whos bike is so un leak able the aluminum has rusted - if you listen to him brag about it
nothing in my shop is started with out a bucket under it - a restored dark green 1949 came in last week did not look at it till today and with out even moving it around it has a 1/2 quart of oil under it -- no I did not do the resto but it can happen to any of them at any time for no apparent reason some do it all the time some don't
and then you will always have the guy whos bike is so un leak able the aluminum has rusted - if you listen to him brag about it
The following users liked this post:
hscic (05-04-2019)
#916
You said
"Okay rerouted the return hose into a bottle and started the bike. Idled and slightly revved it for maybe 30 second or less."
Looks to me like this was done with the oil cap off looking at pic?
Did the oil inside Her tank behave like the first time? bubble or show any signs of moment?
(If You had a chance to notice both inside tank AND return hose routed to bottle at same time)
To clarify..oil in tank STILL looks clean/new and whats in plastic bottle is blackish/old stuff?
Heres the reason for my last question,
You said,
"since my oil looks like the oil in the vid canister that came out of the return hose....the oil should be clear like in the tank."
"Okay rerouted the return hose into a bottle and started the bike. Idled and slightly revved it for maybe 30 second or less."
Looks to me like this was done with the oil cap off looking at pic?
Did the oil inside Her tank behave like the first time? bubble or show any signs of moment?
(If You had a chance to notice both inside tank AND return hose routed to bottle at same time)
To clarify..oil in tank STILL looks clean/new and whats in plastic bottle is blackish/old stuff?
Heres the reason for my last question,
You said,
"since my oil looks like the oil in the vid canister that came out of the return hose....the oil should be clear like in the tank."
Last edited by 60weight; 05-05-2019 at 12:15 AM.
#917
You said
"Okay rerouted the return hose into a bottle and started the bike. Idled and slightly revved it for maybe 30 second or less."
Looks like this was done with the oil cap off looking at pic,
Did the oil inside Her tank behave like the first time? bubble or show any signs of moment?
(If You had a chance to notice both inside tank AND return hose routed to bottle at same time)
To clarify..oil in tank STILL looks clean/new and whats in plastic bottle is blackish/old stuff?
"Okay rerouted the return hose into a bottle and started the bike. Idled and slightly revved it for maybe 30 second or less."
Looks like this was done with the oil cap off looking at pic,
Did the oil inside Her tank behave like the first time? bubble or show any signs of moment?
(If You had a chance to notice both inside tank AND return hose routed to bottle at same time)
To clarify..oil in tank STILL looks clean/new and whats in plastic bottle is blackish/old stuff?
Yes the stuff in the bottle was blackish stuff as well as the puke coming out of the breather..
Plan to reroute the return hose into a bottle and run the engine again...and as the nasty oil comes out of the return, will keep filling the tank to place clean fresh oil to maintain proper level....until clean oil come out of the return, Will do this after I take the bike for a good ride and assess the system.
Last edited by hscic; 05-05-2019 at 12:20 AM.
#918
You could do that while using a box fan.
Gallon jug for old oil of course, She only holds 3 quarts (normally)
Personally, I would do this after Shes warm...idling 1200 RPMs no less.
No riding first..just after running till warm,in garage.
But...I really suggest visually verify the oil hose routing first...if you can.
Also, if Ya cant see them You can tug and pull them watching and feeling.
I say this because something sounds off...And we DON'T trust this Indy.
Did he charge You for any new oil hose?
Gunna think about this and get out a factory shop manual...be back in a.m.
Gallon jug for old oil of course, She only holds 3 quarts (normally)
Personally, I would do this after Shes warm...idling 1200 RPMs no less.
No riding first..just after running till warm,in garage.
But...I really suggest visually verify the oil hose routing first...if you can.
Also, if Ya cant see them You can tug and pull them watching and feeling.
I say this because something sounds off...And we DON'T trust this Indy.
Did he charge You for any new oil hose?
Gunna think about this and get out a factory shop manual...be back in a.m.
Last edited by 60weight; 05-05-2019 at 12:42 AM.
The following users liked this post:
hscic (05-05-2019)
#919
You could do that while using a box fan.
Gallon jug for old oil of course, She only holds 3 quarts (normally)
Personally, I would do this after Shes warm...idling 1200 RPMs no less.
No riding first..just after running till warm,in garage.
But...I really suggest visually verify the oil hose routing first...if you can.
Also, if Ya cant see them You can tug and pull them watching and feeling.
I say this because something sounds off...And we DON'T trust this Indy.
Did he charge You for any new oil hose?
Gunna think about this and get out a factory shop manual...be back in a.m.
Gallon jug for old oil of course, She only holds 3 quarts (normally)
Personally, I would do this after Shes warm...idling 1200 RPMs no less.
No riding first..just after running till warm,in garage.
But...I really suggest visually verify the oil hose routing first...if you can.
Also, if Ya cant see them You can tug and pull them watching and feeling.
I say this because something sounds off...And we DON'T trust this Indy.
Did he charge You for any new oil hose?
Gunna think about this and get out a factory shop manual...be back in a.m.
Why do you say to verify the oil hose routing when I just verified the return was functioning as it should otherwise I would not have seen oil returning into the bottle?
The indy did nothing except replace oil and oil filter. He did not change any hoses.
#920