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  #31  
Old 09-18-2018, 05:16 AM
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I may need to find a longer one like you pictured. I'm going to try to mock it all up today with new clutch shell/ring gear, new Bendix and new primary chain. Looking at the parts on the bench, it seems that if the Bendix travels too far out it will definitely hit the rivet heads on the ring gear. I've never paid attention to the travel of the Bendix until now, but something sure caused my Bendix surface to get chewed up, and chewed up the ring gear.
 
  #32  
Old 09-18-2018, 07:52 AM
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There is a guy that sells them on eBay for $50-$60. Try just putting in the part number for the starter shaft nut. I may have an extra in my parts stash.
 
  #33  
Old 09-18-2018, 08:43 AM
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now that I'm really studying this situation, I'm beginning to believe my problem may be with the 32 amp Ultima charging system I installed. I'm wondering if I got the spacing on the rotor/compensator/primary chain correct.
I have read things where people reused their old rotor to have the spacing correct. Is that something that can be done, or do you have to use the new rotor from the kit?
Maybe my primary chain is misaligned and messed up my ring gear.
 
  #34  
Old 09-18-2018, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by pjb
now that I'm really studying this situation, I'm beginning to believe my problem may be with the 32 amp Ultima charging system I installed. I'm wondering if I got the spacing on the rotor/compensator/primary chain correct.
I have read things where people reused their old rotor to have the spacing correct. Is that something that can be done, or do you have to use the new rotor from the kit?
Maybe my primary chain is misaligned and messed up my ring gear.
Not hard to check... but, the rotor spacing changes the Front sprocket... shouldn't have much to do with the Rear Sprocket... which is the clutch basket!!!!
 
  #35  
Old 09-18-2018, 09:38 AM
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True, but if the front sprocket is sitting out too far maybe it is pulling the primary chain into the ring gear.
Just a thought, I'll inspect it when I get home.
If need be, can I use the old rotor with the new charging system?
 
  #36  
Old 09-18-2018, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pjb
True, but if the front sprocket is sitting out too far maybe it is pulling the primary chain into the ring gear.
Just a thought, I'll inspect it when I get home.
If need be, can I use the old rotor with the new charging system?
That IDK... I have always mixed and matched... but, only O.E. Stuff...
 
  #37  
Old 09-18-2018, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pjb
True, but if the front sprocket is sitting out too far maybe it is pulling the primary chain into the ring gear.
Just a thought, I'll inspect it when I get home.
If need be, can I use the old rotor with the new charging system?
Once upon a time, the rotor had a spacer made on to it.

In 1991 they decided to get rid of it...the aftermarket made the rotor to fit both..

They simply include the spacer...looks like a big washer...on a 70-90 bike you use the spacer....91-up you don't.





 
  #38  
Old 09-19-2018, 05:10 AM
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upon further inspection, several measurements, and careful attention, what I believe to have happened is this:
the starter jackshaft had 2 thrust washers at the end by the primary cover bearing. I think because of that the jackshaft had no in/out free play. When the solenoid kicked out the Bendix it only went partially onto the ring gear, The ring gear is 3 pieces sandwiched together. The Bendix only engaged the first (maybe the second also) layer of the ring gear, and it was too weak by itself. It began to bend and break the teeth on the inside layer of the 3 part ring gear. The bent and broken ring gear teeth chewed up the Bendix, and on and on.
It looks like with only 1 thrust washer on the jackshaft the Bendix and jackshaft will have more travel outwards and the Bendix will fully engage the ring gear.
Anybody seen this before?
Does it sound reasonable?
 
  #39  
Old 09-19-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by pjb
upon further inspection, several measurements, and careful attention, what I believe to have happened is this:
the starter jackshaft had 2 thrust washers at the end by the primary cover bearing. I think because of that the jackshaft had no in/out free play. When the solenoid kicked out the Bendix it only went partially onto the ring gear, The ring gear is 3 pieces sandwiched together. The Bendix only engaged the first (maybe the second also) layer of the ring gear, and it was too weak by itself. It began to bend and break the teeth on the inside layer of the 3 part ring gear. The bent and broken ring gear teeth chewed up the Bendix, and on and on.
It looks like with only 1 thrust washer on the jackshaft the Bendix and jackshaft will have more travel outwards and the Bendix will fully engage the ring gear.
Anybody seen this before?
Does it sound reasonable?
Since I have never seen 2 thrust washers on the Bendix... yes.. that would sum up yer problem... Much different from... Bendix body hitting the Ring gear due to Over-engagement... Huh??

Originally Posted by pjb
My 76 FLH has a bad grinding sound when I hit the starter. Upon tear down I found that the starter Bendix is very rough. Not the gear teeth, but the body of it where it would ride against the back side of the ring gear.
My question is - is there supposed to be something that limits the travel of the Bendix, so the it's body doesn't ride against the ring gear, or is it supposed to push all the way out against the ring gear?
FWIW - I have 2 thrust washers in place where the shaft goes into the outer primary cover. It came apart that way, so I've always put it back that way.
 

Last edited by Racepres; 09-19-2018 at 08:05 AM.
  #40  
Old 09-19-2018, 08:08 AM
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2/3 engagement is what I shoot for. With full engagement you run a risk of the Bendix drive not returning.
 


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