I am refitting a Keihin butterfly carb to my 76 FLH. I bought a solid, used early carb (27155-76A). It came with the manifold. It's really in great shape except for needing a new fuel inlet. That's easy to fix. It was mounted with a spacer between the carb and manifold. It was about 1/4" thick. It crumbled when I was disassembling the carb so I don't really know how thick it was. The later carbs show a 3/8 thick spacer, but nothing is listed for the early carb. The studs aren't long enough to use a 3/8" thick piece. Was there a thinner spacer that the multi year parts book doesn't show or does the carb bolt to the manifold without a spacer. Also, does it really use and o-ring AND a gasket to mount. That looks like a leak waiting to happen. Thanks!

 

I coulda swore I already answered this!!!!
Yes use a Phenolic Block... the thicker one if I recall, was for the FL or FXWG [Fat Bob Tanks] while the SuperGlides and Sportsters got the Thinner one
They are available, I simply do Not recall where I got my last one... I believe in them for Keeping Heat from the carb.
For the Inlet, I drill with 1/8 pipe tap... or if the inlet is in really good condition, new Press in's are available.
Using an Oring and and Gasket is simply not Necessary... it won't hurt anything either.
When addressing the Inlet, ensure the "plug" has been removed from the Idle jet adjustment.
Don't get all concerned about Accelerator Pump Output... rather, Tune it without the Squirter,and follow the Tuning instructions for the S&S E..
Finally, a K&N air Filter is the Only one I will use... Pays ya back !!!!

Oh Shoot... The studs are replaceable... I generally remove them in fact and use allenhead bolts!!!

 

Forunately, this is the earlier model that did not cover the mixture screw. I've done fuel inlet replacement before so I am already comfortable with that. It makes sense that Fat Bob tanks used a thicker spacer. I knew the carb came from a 76 FX, but I didn't think of that! Thanks!