dont forget to put a quality sealant around the outer of the seal otherwise it will still leak.belt or chain the seal goes one way to have so much oil in the primary is it returning to the oil tank.the last thing i would want to do is replace the seal and its not the problem

 

in the shop we have installed that seal both ways, on machines that belong to the shop as loaners back in the 90s when the evos were commonplace

NOW installing it dead straight and we have the tools - still today cant say it ever made any difference in when it might leak verses did it ever leak < some of those machines had run 10s of thousands of miles with the seal in both ways with no issues - today I would say it does not matter logic tells me dry backwards but with no proof it is doing anything

 

Is your bike set up with the stock oiling system? Feed, return and vent to the primary

My first thought is that the problem is related to his oil pump (by pass valve), but the engine seal around the sprocket definitely makes sense.

 

We need to know the oil pump and primary cover plumbing arrangement.

No sense guessing what the issue is, it`s not a contest.

 

I'll have to take some stuff off to figure out oil pump and primary plumbing arrangement. Will advise when I get time. I did get a pic with primary cover and chain off (see attached). If you notice the pool of oil at the bottom (approx under stator), even if I keep driying that the oil reappears. Would that imply a leaking seal in there?

Greezy: What is that tool you're using in your pic? I'm trying to figure out best way to access seal from where I am now.

 

That's definitely the seal I was talking about, after sitting that long it probably dried up and got hard.
The tool I'm using is pretty expensive (over $200) but there is a seal driver from Jims that is about $100.....When I was young and broke I used to make a lot of those seal drivers that I couldn't afford.
The specialty tools like that are not really worth buying unless you have money to burn or you use them a lot in a shop environment...

 

I suggest that when you reassemble, you get that old safety wire out of there and re wire it correctly, what I see in the pic is a definite fail from this A&P mechanics view...

Use .032 Stainless wire (it is the easiest wire to work with), you don`t need any fancy heat treated stuff.

 

Thanks to all for the input.

Geezy: I agree it seems like a waste to purchase a tool for a one-time use. I'll have to think about fabricating a seal driver of sorts.

Can anyone advise how to remove the stator cover/big spindle (shown in my pic) once the inner primary cover is removed? I have the service manual and parts catalog but they reference a custom H-D tool I'd like to avoid for obvious reasons. Is there a way to do it without a custom tool? Any info would be appreciated.

 

I just went through the same process yesterday. That shaft extension for the compensating sprocket is supposed to slide off, but mine wouldn't budge. I used heat, tried to pry it off, but it wasn't moving. I found a 6 year old thread on this forum where a feller used a Harbor Freight bearing separator/puller, $40 with a 20% off coupon. 5 minutes after I got home that extension was sitting on the bench.

 

If the spindle won't come off, use a puller...If it comes right off, I just screw a couple of bolts in the stator rotor and pull it off.