Clogged Fuel Filler Compartment Drain
#1
Clogged Fuel Filler Compartment Drain
I have some questions for the group. I own a 1981 FLTC which has a large one piece fuel tank. (I believe they used the same tank from 1980-88.) The fuel filler compartment drain port/line is VERY clogged. This is the port that goes from the fuel cap compartment to the rear of the tank for draining off spilled fuel or water. (A hose is attached at the rear.) Absolutely nothing will flow through it. Air pressure does no good. Poking at seems to only pack the clog worse. I've been filling the port, on each side, with WD-40 and using a solid copper wire with the end cut like a drill bit, in my drill at low speed, to try and dislodge the plug will a little success. I let it soak in WD-40 overnight and used a 5/32" drill bit (smaller than the hole of course) this morning to remove some of the clog. This is effective, however, it will be disastrous if the line is not perfectly straight. Which brings me to one of my questions: "Is the port passage straight, or does it bend?" Next question; Since a great deal of rust is coming out the integrity of the line is likely compromised. I was thinking about coating it with an Ethanol proof epoxy. Has anyone used an epoxy that will seal when in constant contact with ethanol? The Devon 2 ton epoxy that I usually use with withstand regular unleaded fine, but does not do well with alcohol - ethanol.
This is the port leaving the fuel filler compartment.
Closer view. Very nasty looking when viewing it close up.
This is the exit
And a close up.
This is the port leaving the fuel filler compartment.
Closer view. Very nasty looking when viewing it close up.
This is the exit
And a close up.
#2
We have fixed a few of those - what is happening is the factory coated the gas tank inside and now 30 years later its shedding the sealer in glitter flakes
it will never go away 20 minuet ride its on the side of the road again - you need to re coat it again -
i used white vinager for 2 weeks topping it off when needed - then we washed out with hot water coupe times and then filtered the vinegar and another week - then hot water again then a alcohol flush coupe times then a good drying
then the red coat twice over a 2 week period - this is done to save the paint on it - if not an issue give it to a radiator shop then coat it and re paint easier thing
it will never go away 20 minuet ride its on the side of the road again - you need to re coat it again -
i used white vinager for 2 weeks topping it off when needed - then we washed out with hot water coupe times and then filtered the vinegar and another week - then hot water again then a alcohol flush coupe times then a good drying
then the red coat twice over a 2 week period - this is done to save the paint on it - if not an issue give it to a radiator shop then coat it and re paint easier thing
#3
#4
Any suggestions for professional tank restoration services? I'd like to send it in as-is and have it returned finished with the OEM color. While I could clean it out and coat it, a professional exterior paint job is outside my skill-set. I do a mean rattle can job, but I want this to really look good.
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#9
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Long Island, New York
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I have used a local radiator shop to clean, pressure test and seal gas tanks that are painted, without damaging the paint. My guy is an old radiator shop that has limited business with plastic radiators in new cars, so now he does restoration work for cars and motorcycles. Tanks, radiators, etc. I was very pleased with the results.
On an older tank I did the white vinegar thing, also pleased with those results. Good luck.
On an older tank I did the white vinegar thing, also pleased with those results. Good luck.
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Marc Potter (02-02-2021)
#10