Clutch hub / shell bearing play ?
#1
Clutch hub / shell bearing play ?
The clutch of my 81 Sturgis is still a mess so I decided to install a new hub.
You know you’ve been doing this a lot when you can rip out the entire primary with belt, pulley and complete clutch with hub in under 30 minutes.
Anyway, the shop offers different thickness rollers for the bearing between the hub and the shell. This implies that there is a spec for the play between the hub and shell. When I assemble the shell including bearing rollers on the hub, which thickness feeler gauge should I be able to still get between rollers and shell ? I looked in the official workshop manual but it doesnt offer any info. I use the original cage with the 20 short rollers…
You know you’ve been doing this a lot when you can rip out the entire primary with belt, pulley and complete clutch with hub in under 30 minutes.
Anyway, the shop offers different thickness rollers for the bearing between the hub and the shell. This implies that there is a spec for the play between the hub and shell. When I assemble the shell including bearing rollers on the hub, which thickness feeler gauge should I be able to still get between rollers and shell ? I looked in the official workshop manual but it doesnt offer any info. I use the original cage with the 20 short rollers…
#2
No that is the cave man way and it wont be right anyway
out side mike the hub — inside mike the shell - then mike the rollers and we do all as i buy them in 100 count bags and a bag will have a 1/2 thousand throw either way then we separate them to plus and minus - china $hit needs pampers to be right
out side mike the hub — inside mike the shell - then mike the rollers and we do all as i buy them in 100 count bags and a bag will have a 1/2 thousand throw either way then we separate them to plus and minus - china $hit needs pampers to be right
The following 3 users liked this post by johnjzjz:
#3
No that is the cave man way and it wont be right anyway
out side mike the hub — inside mike the shell - then mike the rollers and we do all as i buy them in 100 count bags and a bag will have a 1/2 thousand throw either way then we separate them to plus and minus - china $hit needs pampers to be right
out side mike the hub — inside mike the shell - then mike the rollers and we do all as i buy them in 100 count bags and a bag will have a 1/2 thousand throw either way then we separate them to plus and minus - china $hit needs pampers to be right
#4
The following 3 users liked this post by johnjzjz:
#6
The following users liked this post:
pgreer (08-16-2023)
#7
I actually thougt about actuation. What I did was tiewrap the clutch lever to the handlebar (so pulled in), then presses with my thumb on the actuator rod while rotating it and the clutch hub. I did not feel any irregularities or movement on the actuator rod. But opening the kicker cover would be next on my list.
Trending Topics
#8
https://youtube.com/shorts/X5ZQB4dXLoE?feature=share
So I rigged up my dial indicator to measure how much back-and-forth I have with the old hub. Looks like roughly 0.04 to 0.05 mm, so 0.0018 “
Is my measurement setup valid and should I use thicker rollers to reduce the play in this measurement?
So I rigged up my dial indicator to measure how much back-and-forth I have with the old hub. Looks like roughly 0.04 to 0.05 mm, so 0.0018 “
Is my measurement setup valid and should I use thicker rollers to reduce the play in this measurement?
#9
Your in the spec so to speak
a ram jet retainer is needed to keep the shell from walking out when the lever is pulled — then make sure the disc holes are big enough we use a W drill bit to size them and then - the alloy end pressure plate is the deal so a weak steel original is not angled when open —- then remove the ball and springs on the steels they cause a sticky neutral - i also always put a set of red alto clutches in the unit wet or dry - this is the best mod ever developed for a 4 speed clutch
doing the above the rollers become moot the set up is being held straight all the time between the two pieces -
a ram jet retainer is needed to keep the shell from walking out when the lever is pulled — then make sure the disc holes are big enough we use a W drill bit to size them and then - the alloy end pressure plate is the deal so a weak steel original is not angled when open —- then remove the ball and springs on the steels they cause a sticky neutral - i also always put a set of red alto clutches in the unit wet or dry - this is the best mod ever developed for a 4 speed clutch
doing the above the rollers become moot the set up is being held straight all the time between the two pieces -