Your kid at the parts counter does not have a clue. I have had no trouble getting points, condencers, breaker plates, and all the stuff you need to change over from my local HD. Sometimes you just have to ask the parts man to let you look at the parts book.

 

Not trying to be arguementative but here in CT most of the national chain part stores don't even have books. Just computers that will ask questions like do you have A/C when all you want is a windshield wiper! There are a few part stores that are still manned by people who are helpful and have a clue but they are getting harder to find. That is why for years I have collected parts manuals from OEM's and vendors. Then I can go to the store and order by part number. But still when counter help changes I'll get the question "OK but what does it fit". I generally respond with "you don't want to know, but if you insist, it fits a 1939 Allis Chalmers model B" Sorry if I seem negative but after being a mechanic for 30 years I've seen quite some deterioration in the support of the industry. But God Bless all the helpful individuals who care about thier customer and will put in the extra effort.
Chuck

 

You were hallucinating as far as evening out the firing. The crank makes it impossible to do so. There were some models that had dual points, but the firing was still the same sequence.

Ignition on front cylinder.
The rear cylinder ignition happens 315 degrees later.
Then back to the first cylinder firing, but this time it is a 405 degrees later.
So, BANG #1!, crank rotates 315 degrees, BANG #2!, crank rotates 405 degrees, BANG #1!, crank rotates 315 degrees, BANG #2!, crank rotates 405 degrees, BANG #1!, etc.

A more scientific explanation from an HD manual: Using the front cylinder firing position as the starting point, the rear cylinder fires at 315 degrees rotation (360 degrees minus the 45 degrees between the cylinders). The front next fires at 405 degrees (360 degrees plus the 45 degrees between the cylinders). This completes the 720 degrees (360 degrees times 2) of flywheel rotation necessary for the 4 piston strikes.

 

Thanks for the firing facts. I enjoy learning things with the facts to back up the theory. With what I am learning I think we must have converted to a single fire system with two coils.
Chuck

 

so when asking at auto parts store for points,,what would a fellow ask for? here in BC Canada Lordco claims not to carry harley parts but I buy my plugs there,,so my question is what automobiles points & condenser is compatible.
I have an 82 wideGlide that runs fine on points,starts in 2 kicks when I kick,I would just like a spare set of points.

 

60's & 70's 6 cyl. chevy points & condenser

 

something I learned - about going to auto store to buy point for shovel - they are chevy 6 cylinder - brand I use if they have them is Blue Streak - Point set DR2240X (heavy duty) Condenser DP90X - you can use there brand to get you home if need to - I have used Crane 4 Hi single fire on this bike - went back to points

 

Twinn2
"I have used Crane 4 Hi single fire on this bike - went back to points"
Just curious, Why did you go from the Hi-4 back to points. I ve had my hi-4 over ten yrs. havent touched it yet... OK maybe just the rev limiter :>)

 

As far as the HI-4, it's hard to get a decent coil from Crane. Seems to be the weak link. Had two of them that would test OK, but would tear up the plug wires over a relatively short time (that was a mother to figure out). I went through 3 sets of points last year (Echlin - from the auto parts store). Finally threw in a set from H-D, and haven't touched them since.

I think the other brands are foreign (China) manufacture, or at least parts of them are. The contact material is of unknown origin, and doesn't seem to last. Points have to be Blue Streak or H-D.

 

If you switch over to the Chevy points set up you can get points anywhere- cheap. Myself, I've run the same Dyna S ignition for the last 12 years with no problems.