is your bike lowered?
My Fatboy had a "slam kit" done on it (pevious owner)

It would drag floorboards ,and sometimes the guards.
Raised it back up , and problem gone

 

"Don't corner quite as aggressively, so you don't scrape guards"

This is NOT the right solution....
I've had a bike with the same issue; the crash bar touching the ground before the floorboards is a pure recipe for disaster! Even in a slow corner with a relatively small pothole you run the risk of the bike being lifted causing you to loose control... or worse...

So don't expect that driving even slower through corners is going to safe you from potential disasters... it's even worse: now you are aware of the potential danger you're not going to ride in a natural, relaxed way... more potential for trouble

Remove them or - which I was lucky to be able to do - reposition the bar so that the floorboards always touch first

 

As I've mentioned few posts before the issue was in the short pegs, I've put "airfoil small pegs", just need to change them to large/x-large airfoil pegs to make them scratch before the guards

 

Your bike would look better without the engine guard, just sayin' Some bikes look out of place with engine guards.

 

No, do not remove the guards. If you were dragging the footpegs, would your solution be to remove the footpegs?

Unless you're trying to take a 50 mph curve at 80, your problem is your cornering technique. You're leaning your upper body the wrong way.

You must lean your body in the direction of the curve, you must lean your body inside the curve, you must lean your body more than the bike is leaning, whatever description makes sense to you. The best advice I've received on how to do this is to move your chin forward and inside, toward the inside rearview mirror. Or, "COW", Chin Over Wrist.

You must NOT lean less than the bike, that is, you must not be "above" the bike, you must be "inside" the bike. If you're leaning less than the bike, then your body weight will be above the bike, and it will push it down toward the pavement, and sparks will fly.

I've posted these pics before, and they show the idea pretty well:

BAD:





GOOD:

 

Sell the Fat Boy and get a Road King.

Problem solved!

 

The idea of not cornering as aggressively (slower), you wouldn't need to lean as much to get through the corner. Less lean, less chance to scrape.

I imagine most (I am for sure) are picturing a very aggressive (fast), sharp lean to get to the point of scraping.

 

Can you show the whole community here a picture of the scrapes on the engine guards?

 

If you change pegs to longer ones and do nothing about your riding style, all you will be doing is scraping pegs AND bar. Adjust riding style.

 

The OPs bike looks really low to me, which may be an issue.

But I have a question for everyone...
When riding twisties, do you go as fast through the corner as fast as the bike's lean angle will allow to the point of scraping the pegs or floor boards, without regard for what may lie ahead, and assuming that the way is clear?

Or do you go only as fast as your bike's stopping distance will allow if you can't see through the curve?

The reason I ask is because the areas where I ride are full of tight twisty roads. Lined with trees, many curves are semi blind. Many times there isn't 50-75 feet of clear view around the turn. I rarely scrape the floorboards on my Deluxe (stock height) on curves such as this because I just won't go any faster than I can see and be able to stop. Sorta like driving within your headlights at night.

So, which kind of rider are you?