The right side of the bike would be easy to work on, the left almost as easy except for the base of the lift sticking out more on the left side of the bike so you'd need to step around the lift base somewhat if you were for example, working in the primary but all of the areas of the bike are easy to get to; with one exception. The front and rear isolator mounts. The front has just enough clearance to get a second jack under the engine to support it while you swap out the front mount, but the rear mount is almost directly above the left lift arm; I'm still trying to figure out a work-around on that since I'd like to do a Sputhe rear mount later this spring

I didn't get the drain pan, it seemed like it would be more trouble that it would be worth so I still do the fluid changes on the jiffy stand.

You can sort of see what I mean about the left side of the bike in this image I took during version 1 of the oil filter relocation install...

 

I just have a Pittsburg Jack that was a gift. I e used it twice. When I did my big bore I used a chock on the front with ratchet straps, then just lifted the rear tire just off the ground. Once my and the ol move I'll be getting a hoist for motorcycle/tractors so I won't have to worry about it within the next few months.

 

I just ordered one. Time to retire my Sears yellow jack with lift blocks! And bonus: Bike Week Special, free accessory with the lift... I chose the T handle instead of the oil pan thing...

Thanks for the info!

 

Nice!

You will be very pleased; I align the lift under the bike with the left lift arm, it will run next to the frame protector and pan on a very slight angle. Once you've done it a few times you see just how slick it really is; it only takes me a few moments to position the lift under the bike, raise it to the highest position, release the pressure on the bottle jack, move the bike up against the wall, and plug in the tender.

I lower the bike slowly from the highest locking position giving me plenty of time to walk to the left of the bike and hold my boot against the jiffy stand as the bike settles back on to the jiffy.

You'll discover the J&S is the most stable at the highest locking position; when the locking arms drop in to the notches slowly release pressure on the bottle jack and she'll settle right in; locked and stable.

There is one problem I discovered with the J&S; you'll start asking yourself why you didn't buy it sooner

 

I can speak for the J&S drain pan, It works very well and fits the jack like a glove, draining all three holes is a piece of cake. Anything your draining always runs off the center of the pan, I use a sawed off home depot bucket that is now 8 inches tall it's a great fit under the lip of the pan and never misses a drop.

: Mike

 

heads up
my cousins pit bull was stored this exact same way and it ended up damaging the jack itself and had to buy a replacement from pitbull..


when he called the owner asked him straight out if it was stored standing up and when he told him ye he said its NOT recommended to store this way..


FYI pit bull is under NEW ownership and the new guy is very nice and hooked him up with a replacement hydraulic jack shipped for a phenomenal price