I have the Pit Posse bearing removal and installation tool. The dies for installing the bearings have a raised edge that contacts the bearing outer race while leaving the center race untouched on one face and the other face is flat. Assuming that the inner and outer races of the bearings are the same thickness it seems that installing the bearings using the flat sides would prevent the center race from being misaligned with the outer race when pressing the bearings against the spacer. Any thoughts?

 

Hello I used the same tool to do mine on my 16 Ultra. It worked great. I forget which bearing I installed first (think it was the inside) but that one bottoms out in the hub so no worries going too far. The outside bearing gets pressed in very slowly until there is a teeny gap between it and the spacer. I don't believe you want that outer bearing pressed up tightly against the spacer. I noticed before I pulled my old bearings out the spacer could be jiggled back and forth just a teeny bit inside the wheel. I figured since there was that teeny bit of play installed like that from the factory, I would re-install exactly the same way. No issues several thousand miles later. So my 2 cents worth is don't press that outer bearing in too tight against the spacer. Once you go too tight and then try to pull it back you can damage the new bearing.

 

There is a youtube video on this procedure. It can be seen here:

 

I believe you're over-thinking things. Once you start doing the install, things will come together for you and you'll see why you want the raised edge of the backing support plate to rest against the outer race of the installed and seated bearing.

 

First bearing gets installed against the shoulder in the hub bore. 2nd bearing gets installed against the spacer. You want all the races, inner and outer, to be flush with each other. That does leave a small amount of float for the spacer tube, but the 2 inner races get clamped against the tube when you tighten the axle nut. This should leave the wheel to spin freely with the small amount of axial play that's built into the bearings.
I use a big piece of all thread to pull the 2nd bearing in until it's close to finish depth. Then I use the axle and finish up by torquing it to spec. Same way it'll be used on the bike. At least that's how I've always done it. Haven't had any bearing issues to date.

 

This weekend I installed all 6 bearings in both wheels using the "back of the die" method. I was able to push the bearing in until I felt a marked resistance on the bearing installer and when I was finished the bearing spacer still moved freely but with no noticeable end-play. The results are exactly what I was trying to achieve doing it by the recommended method but I didn't have to repeatedly disassemble the bearing installer to check my work. Time (and mileage) will tell.........

 

Use the flat side of the install pilot when installing the second bearing, not the side with the lip that only contacts the outer part of the bearing. By using the flat side of the pilot you can feel the bearing seat against the axle spacer and not bind the bearings.

Edit

Rwven beat me to it.

 

Be sure that when you install the second bearing you also have a flat side of an install pilot against the first bearing also. You don't want to allow either inner race to "float".

 

You're absolutely right.

 

I'm not saying your method doesn't work, but I would be concerned that you "felt a marked resistance on the bearing installer". That wasn't my experience, but I used the "repeatedly disassemble" method to check the spacer for play and to ensure the spacer wasn't putting any side load on the bearing. Plus, I wasn't in a hurry, so it didn't bother me that it took a little more time to disassemble the bearing installer to check the spacer. Anyway, I hope you get many miles out of your new bearings.