Some people switch to synthetic oil for their bikes. Is it a bad idea to sometimes go back and forth from dino to synthetic and vice-versa? The reason I ask is someone may prefer dino but if planning a long trip or riding heavily for a period of time, I guess synthetic will allow the bike to acquire more miles before an oil change is needed.

 

I've done it in my 96 inch with out any issues, still running strong.

rk classic.

 

Wouldn't matter a bit.

 

Usually, I just post a link..let self-education began if it is inclined.
You would have to look at the spec sheets between the two oils and see where the differences are.
As far as damage to your engine I doubt any if both are quality oils .
Keep in mind most people think oil for big diesels is better-
but in truth, most have a much lower PSI failure.
PSi is the number to really look at according to oil enginamneeers

 

Nope. Won't matter.

 

No harm in it; no benefit either unless you're worried about saving a few bucks by using dino oil. Pick one or the other and stick with it.

By the way, I don't use synthetic to extend change intervals, I use it because it's just a better product.

 

synthetic is far superior in every possible way. there isn't a risk in switching between the too, the only possible consideration is your seals, some oils cause them to shrink/swell differently and may possibly cause leakage or shorten seal life.
the main advantage of synthetic is its ability to dissipate heat. in an air cooled motor this is essential. however, any clean oil is better than dirty oil, so don't skimp on the frequency of changes. best to stick with one brand/ style for the life of the bike. but it won't cause any significant damage to switch between the two.

 

I thought dino was better for cleaning.

 

i run rotella in my "lesser bikes" as it doesn't contain friction modifiers, which can cause slipping clutches.

 

7. SHELL ROTELLA T, 15W40 conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4,CF/SM
“Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength” = 72,022 psi
zinc = 1454 ppm
phos = 1062 ppm
moly = 0 ppm
total detergent/dispersant/anti-deposit build-up/anti-sludge = 2886 ppm
TBN = 9.1
The onset of thermal breakdown is approximately 250*
NOTE: This new Rotella T has SIGNIFICANTLY MORE zinc than the OLD Rotella T, NOT LESS as is often claimed. And these two Rotella oils were Lab tested more than a month apart. So, their component quantities had no chance of being mixed up. This new Rotella’s wear protection capability is just slightly BETTER than the OLD Rotella. Therefore, the new Rotella is NOT the junk some have claimed.

8. “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T, 15W40 conventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH
“Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength” = 71,214 psi
zinc = 1171 ppm
phos = 1186 ppm
moly = 0 ppm
total detergent/dispersant/anti-deposit build-up/anti-sludge = 2715 ppm
TBN = 10.1
The onset of thermal breakdown is approximately 250*
NOTE: There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING special about this OLD Rotella, as so many have always claimed. That was only folklore. It is simply ordinary Diesel oil.

Most gas engine oils will run near 100PSi to be rated any good.