Lucky Sucker full kit review. PICS
#1
Lucky Sucker full kit review. PICS
Lucky Sucker kit install review
I have 06 fat boy efi. Pure stock. I got a great deal on the bike and wanted to change it up a bit.
Here is what I bought:
Tank: 600158 LS Cole Foster Bobber Tank for EFI models . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . $299.99
Tank adapter: 641905 Lucky Sucker Gas Tank Adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $99.99
Seat kit: 641904 Lucky Sucker Solo Seat kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . $179.99
Rear fender: 641901 Lucky Sucker 7.25 wide rigid-style fender (150 mm rear tires) . $169.99
Rear fender struts: 641903 Lucky Sucker rigid-style fender struts, raw (pr). . . . . . . . . . . . $34.99
all available here.
http://www.customchrome.com/dcm/cc/_...r_tanks_ss.pdf
This is definitely not just a bolt on kit.
Lets start with the rear fender install. You will have to CUT OFF the rear fender horns off of the frame.
I hacked them off with a cut-off wheel. I left enough meat there to grind down with a flap wheel for a more uniformed look.
The lucky sucker rear fender struts are absolutely useless. Dont buy them, just make your own. The struts are not symmetrical. The left one has to go around the pulley from the swing arm the right one is fairly straight. The problem is that they mount in different places on the swing arm because of their length and dont have the same radius. The left one could bolt through the belt cover mount if you decided to use it. But the right one will require a mount to be welded on the sing arm. Seeing that the welder and cutter were already going to be used, I decided to make my own. I modeled them after a simple hardtail style strut.
I have 06 fat boy efi. Pure stock. I got a great deal on the bike and wanted to change it up a bit.
Here is what I bought:
Tank: 600158 LS Cole Foster Bobber Tank for EFI models . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . $299.99
Tank adapter: 641905 Lucky Sucker Gas Tank Adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $99.99
Seat kit: 641904 Lucky Sucker Solo Seat kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . $179.99
Rear fender: 641901 Lucky Sucker 7.25 wide rigid-style fender (150 mm rear tires) . $169.99
Rear fender struts: 641903 Lucky Sucker rigid-style fender struts, raw (pr). . . . . . . . . . . . $34.99
all available here.
http://www.customchrome.com/dcm/cc/_...r_tanks_ss.pdf
This is definitely not just a bolt on kit.
Lets start with the rear fender install. You will have to CUT OFF the rear fender horns off of the frame.
I hacked them off with a cut-off wheel. I left enough meat there to grind down with a flap wheel for a more uniformed look.
The lucky sucker rear fender struts are absolutely useless. Dont buy them, just make your own. The struts are not symmetrical. The left one has to go around the pulley from the swing arm the right one is fairly straight. The problem is that they mount in different places on the swing arm because of their length and dont have the same radius. The left one could bolt through the belt cover mount if you decided to use it. But the right one will require a mount to be welded on the sing arm. Seeing that the welder and cutter were already going to be used, I decided to make my own. I modeled them after a simple hardtail style strut.
#2
The stock ECM location for my Fatboy was built into the OEM rear fender. I didnt feel like rewiring the bike and relocating if far. So I bought a new smaller battery and placed the ecm on top of the battery using some Velcro to hold it in place.
Shorai LFX18L1-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery .180.00
The new battery is lithium and meets or exceeds OEM battery specs in a much smaller and lighter package. If you every use this battery: DO NOT USE A BATTERY TENDER!!!
I made the sissy bar with a torch and hammer enough said.
The tank requires a new fuel pump.
Harley Davidson OEM fuel pump #75268-07D I paid .180.00 on ebay for a used one. This is a sportster pump. The newest part number is 07f but 07d and o7e work the same. Whatever pump you buy make sure it comes with the gasket.
You will also need to coat the inside of your tank to prevent rust and other corrosion .. 20.00
The bikes fuel pump wiring harness and the new fuel pump harness do not match up. Dissect them both and hook up each orange wire. Fuel pump now has power when it is supposed to. The others wires are fuel gage etc
The stock fuel line that plugs into the bottom of the tank via a Q.D is too short to use with the new tank. The sportster Q.D is about four inches forward of the soft tail and higher. I cut off the chrome crimps on each end of my softail line and saved both ends. I then ran regular fuel line on the old ends for the desired length.
Tank mounting is simple. This is a good time to route the ignition switch towards the front right of the tank. I fully mounted the tank adapter and tank before I mounted my Ignition switch.( I had to remove it all later and installed the ignition then) The tank adapter mounted up in the front just fine. The single mount by the seat not so much.
The tank adapter, tank , and seat mount all bolt into the single through hole where the stock tank bolts into at the seat. The forward seat mount is a hinge. YOU CAN ONLY BOLT THE SEAT OR TANK SETUP THERE, NOT BOTH. I decided to bolt the tank adapter and tank there.
The seat is good quality and so is the mount. But sits too far forward for me. I will rebuild it and set it back a few inches and a little lower. I am 5 10. It is comfortable as it is just not the style I am looking for. I will re-use the seat pan, but none of the mounting.
You can see the seat hinge in the picture above. I cut it off with a zip wheel. Moved the whole mount forward only utilizing the front seat bolt and bent it so it would lock into the down tube. To do this I had to weld a nut on the back side of the mount. The bolt threads through the seat pan then through the mount. I did it this way so I would not have to worry about a nut backing off.
The rear seat mount has 2 mounting points to the bike and two mounting pints to the seat. I tossed out the seat hardware and used a clevis and cotter pin setup. It now takes no tools to take off my seat, but it is mounted very securely.
Its still under construction. A new spoked front wheel and whitewall come in this week. But for the most part is not going to get a lot more work until after Sturgis.
Let me know if you have questions.
Chris
Shorai LFX18L1-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery .180.00
The new battery is lithium and meets or exceeds OEM battery specs in a much smaller and lighter package. If you every use this battery: DO NOT USE A BATTERY TENDER!!!
I made the sissy bar with a torch and hammer enough said.
The tank requires a new fuel pump.
Harley Davidson OEM fuel pump #75268-07D I paid .180.00 on ebay for a used one. This is a sportster pump. The newest part number is 07f but 07d and o7e work the same. Whatever pump you buy make sure it comes with the gasket.
You will also need to coat the inside of your tank to prevent rust and other corrosion .. 20.00
The bikes fuel pump wiring harness and the new fuel pump harness do not match up. Dissect them both and hook up each orange wire. Fuel pump now has power when it is supposed to. The others wires are fuel gage etc
The stock fuel line that plugs into the bottom of the tank via a Q.D is too short to use with the new tank. The sportster Q.D is about four inches forward of the soft tail and higher. I cut off the chrome crimps on each end of my softail line and saved both ends. I then ran regular fuel line on the old ends for the desired length.
Tank mounting is simple. This is a good time to route the ignition switch towards the front right of the tank. I fully mounted the tank adapter and tank before I mounted my Ignition switch.( I had to remove it all later and installed the ignition then) The tank adapter mounted up in the front just fine. The single mount by the seat not so much.
The tank adapter, tank , and seat mount all bolt into the single through hole where the stock tank bolts into at the seat. The forward seat mount is a hinge. YOU CAN ONLY BOLT THE SEAT OR TANK SETUP THERE, NOT BOTH. I decided to bolt the tank adapter and tank there.
The seat is good quality and so is the mount. But sits too far forward for me. I will rebuild it and set it back a few inches and a little lower. I am 5 10. It is comfortable as it is just not the style I am looking for. I will re-use the seat pan, but none of the mounting.
You can see the seat hinge in the picture above. I cut it off with a zip wheel. Moved the whole mount forward only utilizing the front seat bolt and bent it so it would lock into the down tube. To do this I had to weld a nut on the back side of the mount. The bolt threads through the seat pan then through the mount. I did it this way so I would not have to worry about a nut backing off.
The rear seat mount has 2 mounting points to the bike and two mounting pints to the seat. I tossed out the seat hardware and used a clevis and cotter pin setup. It now takes no tools to take off my seat, but it is mounted very securely.
Its still under construction. A new spoked front wheel and whitewall come in this week. But for the most part is not going to get a lot more work until after Sturgis.
Let me know if you have questions.
Chris
The following users liked this post:
JE4444 (01-28-2023)
#4
#6
#8
#9
When I rebuild it i will add springs under it.
#10
Im with HellBilly. No 2 up on this fender. I think it could be made to support another person with solid internal stuts. But then tire clearance becomes an issue.