At first, I didn't pull the tank. After that first time, I pulled the tank and will pull it off every time from now on. I hate scratches. And especially scratches from a dumbass move on my part, or a friend who might have been hanging out that night and either of us let the bars swing down and hit the tank. Mine swung down once and the brake lever chipped the front fender. So cover it very well too. I also did a little more work than I needed to but it made this last bar swap much better. Of course I removed the tank and then I cut the original duestch style connectors completely off then I made my correctly colored wire extensions and made all new weather pack connectors. I always keep weather pack and duestch style connector "kits" in my garage so I have a large assortment of different connector configurations and tons of terminals. The weather pack connector tool makes it easy to disassemble the connector bodies so you can feed the "terminated" wires through the bends of the bars. I had some short 90 degree bend bars (Bad Dad King Midas bars) that I had put on and I'm here to tell ya, if any of the splices were inside the bars there is no possible way I could get them to make the pull through the bars without at least one soldered joint breaking from trying to pull the wires through those tight bends. Even lubed I couldn't get them (but it could have been because my eyes were very hazy that evening. Doing it sober may have been the ticket LOL But I doubt it. It was a pain in the *** regardless). I tried several times and keep in mind every time that happens, the entire harness has to come back out, fix the break and try again. The 90 degree bends were just too close to each other and wedged the wires up inside the bars. I finally got it and then my left turn signal mirror didn't work but I was NOT going through that hassle again to fix one damn wire. But my next bar change came 6 months later to some Carlini Freeway bars and that is when I got to fully reap the benefits of my new connectors under the tank and got away from any splices inside the bars. I have the access length of the wires rolled up and zip tied under the tank so my wires are now long enough for any apes I might put on it, or roll the harness one or two more times to shorten it and put drag bars on it. Oh, I also bought a quick disconnect fuel line fitting for a BMW motorcycle and installed that on my crossover hose. So now I can have a full tank of gas and pull the tank without losing any fuel. Both ends of the fuel fitting closes off when it's disconnected. It's a tight fit but it works great. And it's chrome.

 

Here is my experience with Carlini bars and risers. I bought 17" Evil Apes and High Roller risers. I have no problem with wiring, soldering, gas tank removal, ect... My issue has come from the fact that my bars are stepped. I did not realize this was an issue until I went to install. Now I'm waiting on a part from a different manufacturer to assemble Carlini bars to Carlini riseres. BTW, the part is Wild 1's WO806 1.25" Riser Adapter.

 

Did you buy the bars and risers straight from Carlini? Surprised the would sell you risers that don't work with the bars that you bought at the same time. Why not just swap the risers out for the correct ones?

 

I'm pretty sure they make the stepped bars for people that want to re use their stock risers. I got the non stepped bars, they are just solid 1.25", along with 1.25" risers.

 

A second set of hands really helps when you are getting ready for the final install.

David

 

Well, I got everything off, now to solder up the new wires and get all the new stuff on. I did end up with gas all over the place, really dumb design with that crossover tube. Not sure how anyone could get to those plugs with out taking the tank off.

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Guitar strings make great fish lines. I always take the tank off,paint jobs are expensive compared to an extra 15 minutes to drain the tank and clip the clamps.

 

Why are you soldering anything?

 

I got the wiring kit that you pull out the pins from the plug that is under the seat, cut the old pins off, solder new longer wires, crimp the new pins on the new, longer wires. Then re pin the oem plug. Heat shrink the solder joints and then heat shrink all the wires together with one big shrink. I'm in no rush and it worked great. Came out perfect. I do a lot of soldering so I don't mind it.

 

Got my throttle cable, idol cable and front brake line ran. Should be able to do the clutch cable and bleed the front brake tomorrow.