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Old Sep 17, 2020 | 08:35 PM
  #11  
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Thanks brother, I will be back in San Diego on Tues and give it a go then!!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 07:42 PM
  #12  
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So I replaced the CKP with new, plugged PC back in then checked DIAG to make sure there were no codes present and tried to start, she turned over but would not start. A quick DIAG check showed yet again 1016 but the other 2 codes ( P0261/P0263) were gone as MyFavRK figure would happen. So far I have changed the CKP, the fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel pump, and check valve assy. What am I missing? Any thoughts?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 08:15 PM
  #13  
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Couple things I have read , from other forums would be corrosion / loose connection on the ignition switch on the console , and if you have / use a key fob , try changing the battery . There are 2 small tabs inside , carefully pull them up a bit so the battery makes a solid connection .

If you pull the ignition switch , make sure you pull the main fuse first , then check and clean your connections , using electrical contact cleaner will help .
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 08:20 PM
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no Key FOB, will take a look at ignition switch. Thank you!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 08:00 AM
  #15  
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Another thing I would do , is go through all of your connections with Electrical Contact Cleaner , check your battery cables , both ends ( clean and tight ) check the entire length of each cable , sometimes corrosion can finds it's way into the jacket and ruin the cable inside causing inadequate voltage .

Take your battery in and have it load tested , most places will do it for free . I'm guessing since you leave your bike sit for extended periods of time , you have it on a battery tender , if not , I would buy one .

This might explain your starter issue , you can test your voltage at the starter by disconnecting the single green wire at the starter and see what the voltage reading is when you push the start button .

If the battery " load " tests good , then hook up the volt meter to your battery terminals and test voltage ( report back ) . Also test for voltage drop when the start button is pushed ( starter engaged ) .

Just a couple other things things to check out , good luck !
 
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 08:55 AM
  #16  
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Will do, leaving once again but only for a few weeks. I will keep you posted upon my return. Thanks once again. I appreciate it greatly!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 11:52 AM
  #17  
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My buddy had a similar problem with his 2011 Heritage Classic. Turned out it was the temperature sensor. It confused the computer. Replaced sensor then all was good. It didn't throw a code but a Harley mechanic we ride with sometimes says you need to check the codes right away when the bogging starts. That's how we found the problem?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 06:22 PM
  #18  
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I had something similar about 1/2 way to Panama City in 2017. It was a 98' Softail so there was is no computer, but it turned out to be the cam timing sensor.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2021 | 04:36 PM
  #19  
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Well, I gave up and will take her to Harley tomorrow to see if they can fix it. Between getting stuck overseas for months at a time, going back again in a few days for longer there is just isn't time for me to TS and try to find out what's wrong. Plus I am fairly frustrated and no idea what's wrong. I have checked and rechecked the issues and followed advice but nothing seems to work. I cringe at the thought of how much I am going to be charged to troubleshoot and fix but am crossing fingers for a good mechanic that knows his ****
 
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Old May 27, 2022 | 07:02 AM
  #20  
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Well a bit late updating this but what the hell. Harley did fix the problem (s). Cost an arm and a leg but she runs well now though needs a tune. It was a combo of many problems according to them; clutch basket, starter, fuel delivery, plugs, plug wires, bad PC throwing codes. Have a Vance and Hines exhaust with VH VO2 air cleaner and VH fuel pak, I have it set per directions but its fairly generic setting and she runs rich, also wondering if previous owner changed sprocket out as 1st gear seems pretty damn high

2007 Fatboy
 
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