2007 Fatboy, 43K miles. Exhaust leak on the rear cylinder. Last time I had a rear tire installed they had to loosen the exhaust to change the tire. But this time they apparently didn't tighten the nuts on the rear cylinder and it has worked loose. With an extension and a socket I started to crank on it to tighten it but it feels like it is either rusted in place or cross-threaded. Trying to loosen it I get the feeling I may be loosening the stud. In any case my concern is that I could snap the stud and then a simple task becomes major surgery. Now if the stud is Loctited in place some heat would be a good way to get it loose. I've tried PB Blaster but it doesn't seem to make much of an impression. But I'm not about to try to sneak a torch back in there.

So, after my long winded explanation, I'm wondering if anyone has a brilliant idea for getting heat on the stud. Would an old Weller soldering gun get the stud hot enough to weaken the loctite. Or would I have more luck trying to loosen the stud after getting the engine up to running temp?

 

You could try each one... better than breaking a stud off...

Getting the engine to operating temp is probably the best of those two...

Also maybe try a heat gun or hair dryer...?

If you don't want to try a torch, do you know someone with a heat induction tool....? It would be perfect for that and make it easy...

My wife bought me a heat induction tool for Christmas several years ago, after she heard me talk about it... they were less expensive back then, and the several times I've used it, I'm sure it saved me further headaches....

Good luck .....

 

If it’s red loctite it’s gonna need the heat of a torch.

 

Best method of applying controlled heat in tight quarters is an angled head single burner propane cigar lighter available in many convenience stores

I will post a pic


perfect for pin point accuracy......3 bucks at 7-Eleven

 

Is vibration on these motors so bad that loctite is needed on exhaust studs?

 

I don't believe so.....

I just looked through a 2012 Factory Service Manual (quick check), and I didn't see anything about installing exhaust studs in the Exhaust or Cylinder Head sections.

I don't know what the MoCo recommends... nor do I know the factory install procedure used... Hopefully someone will chime in with that knowledge..

The OP's problem could be due to the use of red threadlocker, or galvanic corrosion/galling between the exhaust stud and head...


FWIW....

I have never had an exhaust stud come loose on it's own. My anecdotal experience involves multiple engine family Harleys, with multiple mod levels, and while removing and reinstalling exhaust headers many times. I HAVE had to re-torque (tighten) exhaust nuts, especially with a new exhaust install...


In discussing exhaust manifold bolts...

Some fear the dissimilar metals between the aluminum heads and exhaust studs will cause the studs to seize into the heads (galling or galvanic corrosion).... IMHO, that would be bad.

Some fear the studs coming out when removing the torqued exhaust stud nuts... IMHO, that's not a big issue.

Some both...

Most will want to use something on the studs when installing them...

Personally, I would use a copper based anti-seize (copper based for heat) when installing new exhaust studs, to avoid studs seizing in the heads.

 

If there was red locktite on an exhaust stud, and the engine has been run, it has long since crystalized and lost its grip...

 

Having been working on several issues on this bike I haven't posted lately. I hate to see problems posted with no final solution so I don't want to be one who does that.
Someone shot a 3" framing nail into my rear tire, with only 1,600 miles on it, so I had to replace it again. This time I removed the wheel and tire and took it to the shop to have a new tire mounted and I put it back on the bike. I removed the exhaust entirely, chased the threads on the studs, installed new exhaust gaskets, new nuts with never-seize and properly torqued. All four nuts came off hard but the threads on the studs cleaned up nicely with a chasing die.

As an aside I have 3 torque wrenches, 2 clickers and one very old Amco beam type torque wrench. Torqueing the axel nut didn't feel quite right with the clicker so I used the beam type. Compared the three and they all read differently so it is time to calibrate them again.

My kids bought me a heated jacket liner and gloves that plug into the bike's battery. I found that it keeps me quite warm and works well on the highway. In stop and go traffic the power demand seems to be more than the alternator can generate. After running errands in town the battery gave up on the last stop. Wondering if there is an alternator upgrade for my 2007 Fatboy.

 

Off the top of my head, I am unaware of one for your bike...

However.... your OEM Stator, is #30017-07 and used in the '07 Dynas and Softails. It went to part # 30017-08 for the '08+ models. I suspect, but don't know for sure, that they are compatible. Both are rated @ 50 amps (2500 rpm) and 32 AMPS @ 1000 rpm.

You can use those specs for reference. You could also call Cycle Electric to see if the offer s higher output replacement for that rotor part #...