flush gas caps
#12
#13
RE: flush gas caps
It just pops out whit a little tug careful what you use... I use my fingers... Follow the wire threw and under the tank and unplug the connection and snip the plug off on the Gage end.. pull the wire threw and out with the old Gage ...They supply a new plug for the new Gage and the pin's are already on the New wires. Slide the new Gage wires down and threw the pipe and match up the wire colors clip the new plug on the wires and yer done.
#14
RE: flush gas caps
Just pull it, gently, upward. Also if you have small enough hands, you can reach under the tank and unplug the old gauge and install the extra wire that will go into th plug. Otherwise the tank will have to be lifted so you can get to wiring. Now for any more info, I'll have to charge you boys a fee for the use of the manual that cost me about $70, and a 12 pack of Miller Lite. I was an IRON-HEAD too, why use chrome money for damn book!!! But soon or later the simple upgrades will get boaring and you'll want to put onsome chrome fork lowers, maybe some new triple trees. How about that chrome inner primary housing and chrome billet rockerbox covers, that "damn book" sure has been worth the money.
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#15
RE: flush gas caps
When I bought the new Screamin' Eagle slip-on exhaust I ran into the same BS ... the instructions with the exhaust actually said I had to refer to the service manual ... I guess it's too expensive to print real instructions in those Chinese accessory factories.
The price of the service manual is about $60.
For what it's worth, I got my service manual out for the '07 Heritage and looked up "fuel gauge." It's one page with a diagram (and not really a good diagram at that). The instructions for removing the fuel gauge aren't that complicated. Here's the main items I thought might be worthwhile:
1. Do not twist the left "fake" fuel cap (I'm assuming that's to keep you from twisting the wires inside). As noted, just pull up on the cap to remove it.
2. There are 3 wires that attach to the bottom of the gauge.
3. Take the seat off. Disconnect battery (book warns to do this to avoid "accidental startup" while working).
4. Remove fuel tank fasteners (there's a whole 'nother section on how to remove the fuel tank) and slide fuel tank back. You can probably figure out how to get the tank off. Fastners at front, on dash panel and at back.
5. The harness/gauge plug is fairly easy to disconnect. The wires run through a tube inside the tank.
6. There is a clamp at bottom of fuel tank holding the gage wiring in place, so look for it before you start poking or pulling on the wires too much.
7. There is a gasket that goes under the cap, and the book suggest you replace it when you remove the cap. If the new cap comes with a gasket then that's probably what it's for.
As noted, if you plan to do much to your bike -- even if you're just planning on basic maintenance -- then the manual is probably worth the $60.
The price of the service manual is about $60.
For what it's worth, I got my service manual out for the '07 Heritage and looked up "fuel gauge." It's one page with a diagram (and not really a good diagram at that). The instructions for removing the fuel gauge aren't that complicated. Here's the main items I thought might be worthwhile:
1. Do not twist the left "fake" fuel cap (I'm assuming that's to keep you from twisting the wires inside). As noted, just pull up on the cap to remove it.
2. There are 3 wires that attach to the bottom of the gauge.
3. Take the seat off. Disconnect battery (book warns to do this to avoid "accidental startup" while working).
4. Remove fuel tank fasteners (there's a whole 'nother section on how to remove the fuel tank) and slide fuel tank back. You can probably figure out how to get the tank off. Fastners at front, on dash panel and at back.
5. The harness/gauge plug is fairly easy to disconnect. The wires run through a tube inside the tank.
6. There is a clamp at bottom of fuel tank holding the gage wiring in place, so look for it before you start poking or pulling on the wires too much.
7. There is a gasket that goes under the cap, and the book suggest you replace it when you remove the cap. If the new cap comes with a gasket then that's probably what it's for.
As noted, if you plan to do much to your bike -- even if you're just planning on basic maintenance -- then the manual is probably worth the $60.
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