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  #841  
Old 08-22-2013, 10:05 PM
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Great thread. Learning a lot here

Thanks!!!
 

Last edited by jjmitchem; 08-22-2013 at 10:23 PM. Reason: wrong thread
  #842  
Old 09-03-2013, 07:19 PM
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Not sure if this has been covered or not, but I managed to find a inexpensive and easy way to cover up the torx heads on the rear fender struts. I bought some of the spectre bolt caps in the 9/16" size from Pep-Boys, about $9 for a container of 6. I tapped them on over the bolt heads with a rubber mallet, went on pretty snug, I did not utilize any of the filler plastic plugs that were included with the set, these seem to tap right on with a snug fit. I might add that I have had these on there for well over 6 months now, have yet to loose one, and they blend right in with the chrome fender strut.
I also removed the black O-rings from mine, it might have looked better had I left them, but to each his own.
Since then I have also managed to cover the same type bolt head under the front floor-boards, not that it is as easily seen.
When I need to remove these covers I don't think it will be a problem, the only problem may be remembering to use some type of protective device over the teeth of my pliers before doing so. Otherwise I will just be out another $9 and a trip to Pep-Boys.
I will seee if I can post pictures later.
 
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Last edited by jakson200369; 09-03-2013 at 09:40 PM.
  #843  
Old 09-20-2013, 06:26 AM
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Default Made risers for my Breakout

I posted about this, but figured this needs to be here...

I had a little time and some 2" aluminum stock laying around and decided to go for it on the lathe.

Milled down to 1.75" diameter and cut at 1.75" length. Drilled out to 1/2"

Stock bolts are 2.75" long 1/2x13. Adding the 1.75" risers required 4.50" bolts.

I polished them out on a buffing wheel and installed them...



I can't believe the difference in comfort the risers made! (I wasn't uncomfortable to begin with, but sitting up a bit more made a world of difference)

The wiring to the speedo and blinkers only required cutting the zip-tie from the eyelets on each side of the tank rubber to relieve them.

I will have them chromed after a little detailing back on the lathe

ANYONE with a little skill and ambition can to this on the CHEAP.... and you don't need to be a machinist or metal worker for a clean look.

You can buy the aluminum rod in as little as 12" lengths in 1.75" diameter, drill at 1/2", cut your specific length and obtain the correct size 1/2"x13 bolts of the proper length to install them.

I would NOT go over 1.75" due to the strain on the wiring that would have to be relieved by rerouting.

Here is a link for y'all....

Aluminum Round Rods | MSCDirect.com

At under $30.... you can't go wrong and you get that DIY sense of accomplishment... don't forget to polish, paint, powdercoat or chrome! LOL!!
 

Last edited by Spazz; 09-20-2013 at 06:29 AM.
  #844  
Old 09-21-2013, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tgrisko
I posted about this, but figured this needs to be here...

I had a little time and some 2" aluminum stock laying around and decided to go for it on the lathe.

Milled down to 1.75" diameter and cut at 1.75" length. Drilled out to 1/2"

Stock bolts are 2.75" long 1/2x13. Adding the 1.75" risers required 4.50" bolts.

I polished them out on a buffing wheel and installed them...



I can't believe the difference in comfort the risers made! (I wasn't uncomfortable to begin with, but sitting up a bit more made a world of difference)

The wiring to the speedo and blinkers only required cutting the zip-tie from the eyelets on each side of the tank rubber to relieve them.

I will have them chromed after a little detailing back on the lathe

ANYONE with a little skill and ambition can to this on the CHEAP.... and you don't need to be a machinist or metal worker for a clean look.

You can buy the aluminum rod in as little as 12" lengths in 1.75" diameter, drill at 1/2", cut your specific length and obtain the correct size 1/2"x13 bolts of the proper length to install them.

I would NOT go over 1.75" due to the strain on the wiring that would have to be relieved by rerouting.

Here is a link for y'all....

Aluminum Round Rods | MSCDirect.com

At under $30.... you can't go wrong and you get that DIY sense of accomplishment... don't forget to polish, paint, powdercoat or chrome! LOL!!
I'd buy a set from ya if ya feel like making them!
 
  #845  
Old 09-22-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jakson200369
Not sure if this has been covered or not, but I managed to find a inexpensive and easy way to cover up the torx heads on the rear fender struts. I bought some of the spectre bolt caps in the 9/16" size from Pep-Boys, about $9 for a container of 6. I tapped them on over the bolt heads with a rubber mallet, went on pretty snug, I did not utilize any of the filler plastic plugs that were included with the set, these seem to tap right on with a snug fit.
I've put them also on my engine case bolts, the axle adjusters, and something or another else.
 
  #846  
Old 10-21-2013, 12:45 AM
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awesome thread learning a lot. thanks
 
  #847  
Old 11-02-2013, 08:01 PM
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Default Cup holder

Originally Posted by Citoriplus
Thaks xraybox, that' should be good enough.
BTW I like that idea of the spacer on the mirror stem.
Its easier and cheaper than trying to find the extra deep Acorn nut I used on mine.
Great job.

rsarno,
Instead of buying a couple of cup holders and cutting them up why not just get a piece of plywood, any thickness will do.
Cut it to fit the inside of the bag, then use a hole saw to cut two holes for the cups and put 4" to 6" long carrage bolts in the four corners with the nice wide domed heads agains't the bottom of the bag (they won't over stress the leather that way) to hold it up off the bottom.
Then you can stand the cups in the holes to hold them securely when you need it.
Then when you don't need it, just tip it on its side so the wood is virtically oriented agains't the inside or outside of the bag.
It shouldn't take up much if any space laying like that, but you'll still have it in there whenever you need it.
If you have some scrap plywood, a can of black spray paint, and carrage bolts laying around it shouldn't cost more than a couple of hours work.
I have seen these special bags they use in boxes for form fitting things you ship they are in a plastic bag you break what ever is in them and it creates some kind of foam you can push things in and then it gets hard and holds that shape. I have always thought about getting a couple samples from u line who has this stuff . Activate the stuff in the bags while it's in your bags push in the two used dd cups or what ever you use and it should work and you should be label to pull the thing out I do not run my bags much so I never got around to it
 
  #848  
Old 11-06-2013, 03:16 PM
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great info!!!
 
  #849  
Old 11-09-2013, 11:45 PM
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After taking my E Glide and two coworkers bikes to Florida in September, I found out real quick that there is not much to hook tie downs to on a bagger. My Fatboy is only slightly easier. After checking the thread size on the bolt for the passenger pegs, and a Bing search I found eye bolts on Amazon that have the right thread size to screw in place of the pegs.
 
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  #850  
Old 11-10-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by soniccbr
After taking my E Glide and two coworkers bikes to Florida in September, I found out real quick that there is not much to hook tie downs to on a bagger. My Fatboy is only slightly easier. After checking the thread size on the bolt for the passenger pegs, and a Bing search I found eye bolts on Amazon that have the right thread size to screw in place of the pegs.
I did that with some eye bolts from Home Depot. I don't know if you have tied a bike down from that point or not but when i did it would bend the bolt. So it didn't work for me , if you have tied one down using that and it hasn't bent, you must have gotten stronger eye bolts. Check them each time you stop for food, gas, etc.
 


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