the 1 i just posted sorry i had to find it

 

Counter-clockwise to loosen.
I used a boxend wrench and a rubber mallet while it was on my J&S stand.
The right was on tighter than the left.

The front has plenty of room for a socket, but you're best bet on the rear bolts is going to be a boxend wrench.

 

To reiterate a fact passed down to me for generations.. When in doubt, get a bigger hammer.

Nothing says "LOOSEN UP DAMNIT" like a 7lb metal mallet.

 

3/4 ratcheting wrench and a blow torch is the easiest way to get the rear bolts loose.

Drew

 

I do a lot in my dining room.. apparently i beat on a 3/4" box wrench with a metal mallet.. but i don't think playing with a blow torch is one of them. haha.

Okay, so here's the next thing.. the service manual says those rear bolts have to be tightened to like 135ft/lbs (it's up there, not sure of the exact number because my service manual is currently propping up the rear tire..haha).. how do you guys estimate that, rather than just beating on a wrench in the other direction?

edit:


this is my favorite image from last winter.. luckily i don't have to go that far this time..just gotta remove the exhaust (already done), test mount the new exhaust(already done), remove the console(already done), remove the front tire, remove the front forks, remove the clutch housing cover (that do-dad that says "six speed"), remove the shift linkage (already done), and remove the brake pedal..and um..i guess that's it really

 

***sgt jim...i put my shocks back on the same way i took them off...about three real good licks with a steel hammer to the wrench. A long 3/4" box end. Nothing to it. Clean the bolt threads well before re-intalling them .***


woody

 

yup, cleaned them up, re-red loctited them, got them back installed.. (i put in 422's), got the ride height to (i guess...) where i want it for now.. we'll see in the spring i guess.

 

I'm planning on putting Progressive 422's in my 2007 Softail Custom.

Is it easier to do with the rear wheel removed?

Can I do the job with just my J&S jack? It seem like the J&S jack would only get in the way of the shocks.

Thanks

 

No need to remove the rear wheel. I used my floor jack when I did mine, takes some creativity, but it can be done.

1. Jack up bike
2. place cribbing (stacked 4x4's or jack stands) at front and rear of frame
3. lower bike onto cribbing
4. remove front shock bolts (do this first or the shock will spin once the rear bolts are out)
5. put bike back on jack
6. remove rear bolts
7. lower bike back onto cribbing
8. remove shocks from under bike
9. reverse

Good luck!

Oh, it's also helpful to have a small bottle jack or car jack to place under the rear tire so you can move it up and down to get the new shocks lined up with all the bolt holes.

 

agreed with jreichart.. I just put a set of 422's on last night which is why i resurrected this thread.. i did mine on just a floor jack in my dining room.. you'll need a 3/4" open-ended or box wrench (a ratcheting box wrench is by far your best bet, i wish i had one), and a bigass hammer to get the stock shocks off.. then an 11/16" wrench and deep-socket for the 422's adjustment bolts.. so 3 tools total.

One thing i learned, is that you should find some way to put upward pressure on the rear tire...just a bit, like 1/2" or so.. i actually did it very stupidly, but it was also getting really like when i was finishing up, so thought went out the window.. i actually jacked the bike about 10" off the floor, and laid underneath it and used my chest to prop the tire up..bolts when back in much much easier like that. yeah