Removing shocks
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 7,882
Likes: 5
From: So California
I'm resurrecting this thread just to mention that i'm completely stuck getting the first of the rear rear-shock bolts off.. can't get a socket in there for anything.. and literally, using a cheater bar, caused my nose to start gushing blood from putting so much effort in to loosening the thing..and it's still on there tight as when it came off the showroom floor.
Just a stupid question.. but it is a normal threaded bolt, right? Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey? it's not one of those damn communist bolts that's threaded backwards, is it?
Just a stupid question.. but it is a normal threaded bolt, right? Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey? it's not one of those damn communist bolts that's threaded backwards, is it?
I used a boxend wrench and a rubber mallet while it was on my J&S stand.
The right was on tighter than the left.
The front has plenty of room for a socket, but you're best bet on the rear bolts is going to be a boxend wrench.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
I do a lot in my dining room.. apparently i beat on a 3/4" box wrench with a metal mallet.. but i don't think playing with a blow torch is one of them. haha.
Okay, so here's the next thing.. the service manual says those rear bolts have to be tightened to like 135ft/lbs (it's up there, not sure of the exact number because my service manual is currently propping up the rear tire..haha).. how do you guys estimate that, rather than just beating on a wrench in the other direction?
edit:
this is my favorite image from last winter.. luckily i don't have to go that far this time..just gotta remove the exhaust (already done), test mount the new exhaust(already done), remove the console(already done), remove the front tire, remove the front forks, remove the clutch housing cover (that do-dad that says "six speed"), remove the shift linkage (already done), and remove the brake pedal..and um..i guess that's it really
Okay, so here's the next thing.. the service manual says those rear bolts have to be tightened to like 135ft/lbs (it's up there, not sure of the exact number because my service manual is currently propping up the rear tire..haha).. how do you guys estimate that, rather than just beating on a wrench in the other direction?
edit:
this is my favorite image from last winter.. luckily i don't have to go that far this time..just gotta remove the exhaust (already done), test mount the new exhaust(already done), remove the console(already done), remove the front tire, remove the front forks, remove the clutch housing cover (that do-dad that says "six speed"), remove the shift linkage (already done), and remove the brake pedal..and um..i guess that's it really
Last edited by Sgt_Jim; Dec 17, 2011 at 09:36 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 301
Likes: 7
From: NORTH CAROLINA
i do a lot in my dining room.. Apparently i beat on a 3/4" box wrench with a metal mallet.. But i don't think playing with a blow torch is one of them. Haha.
Okay, so here's the next thing.. The service manual says those rear bolts have to be tightened to like 135ft/lbs (it's up there, not sure of the exact number because my service manual is currently propping up the rear tire..haha).. How do you guys estimate that, rather than just beating on a wrench in the other direction?
Edit:
this is my favorite image from last winter.. Luckily i don't have to go that far this time..just gotta remove the exhaust (already done), test mount the new exhaust(already done), remove the console(already done), remove the front tire, remove the front forks, remove the clutch housing cover (that do-dad that says "six speed"), remove the shift linkage (already done), and remove the brake pedal..and um..i guess that's it really
Okay, so here's the next thing.. The service manual says those rear bolts have to be tightened to like 135ft/lbs (it's up there, not sure of the exact number because my service manual is currently propping up the rear tire..haha).. How do you guys estimate that, rather than just beating on a wrench in the other direction?
Edit:
this is my favorite image from last winter.. Luckily i don't have to go that far this time..just gotta remove the exhaust (already done), test mount the new exhaust(already done), remove the console(already done), remove the front tire, remove the front forks, remove the clutch housing cover (that do-dad that says "six speed"), remove the shift linkage (already done), and remove the brake pedal..and um..i guess that's it really
***sgt jim...i put my shocks back on the same way i took them off...about three real good licks with a steel hammer to the wrench. A long 3/4" box end. Nothing to it. Clean the bolt threads well before re-intalling them .***
woody
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
yup, cleaned them up, re-red loctited them, got them back installed.. (i put in 422's), got the ride height to (i guess...) where i want it for now.. we'll see in the spring i guess.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 10
I'm planning on putting Progressive 422's in my 2007 Softail Custom.
Is it easier to do with the rear wheel removed?
Can I do the job with just my J&S jack? It seem like the J&S jack would only get in the way of the shocks.
Thanks
Is it easier to do with the rear wheel removed?
Can I do the job with just my J&S jack? It seem like the J&S jack would only get in the way of the shocks.
Thanks
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1. Jack up bike
2. place cribbing (stacked 4x4's or jack stands) at front and rear of frame
3. lower bike onto cribbing
4. remove front shock bolts (do this first or the shock will spin once the rear bolts are out)
5. put bike back on jack
6. remove rear bolts
7. lower bike back onto cribbing
8. remove shocks from under bike
9. reverse
Good luck!
Oh, it's also helpful to have a small bottle jack or car jack to place under the rear tire so you can move it up and down to get the new shocks lined up with all the bolt holes.
Last edited by jreichart; Dec 18, 2011 at 08:02 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
One thing i learned, is that you should find some way to put upward pressure on the rear tire...just a bit, like 1/2" or so.. i actually did it very stupidly, but it was also getting really like when i was finishing up, so thought went out the window.. i actually jacked the bike about 10" off the floor, and laid underneath it and used my chest to prop the tire up..bolts when back in much much easier like that. yeah