Need some help on cams for my 06 FXSTS. I am kinda partial to S&S but it is not set in stone. The engine is stock except for S&S Super E carb and Vance and Hines pipes. Would like to go with gear drive to get rid of the chain. Any input?
Thanks in advance.

 

Gear drive are better anyhow, as long as you have the proper runout.

 

I had s&s 510 gear drive on a 06 street glide 88" , pro pipe and a/c and jetted carb , I was very very happy with it . I reccomend the 510 gears.

 

First, it's highly probable, if I remember when the change in crank construction occurred, that your '06 crank won't pass runout spec because it was right about then that HD loosened their manufacturing target tolerance. (I didn't measure mine when I had the chance but I wasn't going to geared). S&S can tell you more. Just because they make a geared cam for your bike doesn't mean that it is 'bolt-in' and you will see that if you look at the details of the products offered.

Second, IMHO anything more than a 510 is a waste of lift on a stock 88. If you're planning on increasing cubes, doing head work, and changing carbs then your choices change dramatically.

Third, it depends upon what you want the cam for. Impressive sound at the local watering hole? You haul two babes on your bike with you at the same time? You want better efficiency with the pipes you have? If you aren't modding the rest of the engine, then it won't be performance that you are after... it will be >where< the torque curve moves to. Sure, you will get 5 h.p. if your bike is dyno'd (and properly tuned, jets and all). That will amount to about $240 per h.p. depending upon how much work you do yourself, if you get it dyno'd, and whether you change other stuff while you're there (bearings, for example). A good set of pipes (which you have already done) is worth about $100 per h.p. just for comparison.

It's entirely possible, by the way, that you won't need to change the jets in that carb... that's up to the tuner.

C#

 

'06 was the last year of the cold forged crank with less than .003" acceptable runout.

( '02 was the last of the hot forged crank with the Timken 'Lefty' Bearing.)

'07 was the first cast crank with the potential run-out problems. ( Junk.)

You can run gear drive on your '06 bike, but measure run-out first. Or consider the hydraulic upgraded tensioners from Harley when you spec your new cams.

They supposedly last a long time too w/o having to worry about run-out issues.

 

i went with the .574 reaper cams,and like others have said i had to have the crank work done because my runout was .008 runout which will not support geard cams.i wanted to get rid of the chains and all that mess so i went for it.reapers are made by fueling imo is good quality stuff with good numbers

 

If I use the hydraulic tensioners then do I use gear diven cams?

 

I am not looking to change much in the engine. I had thought of bumping up the ci. but was told that would cause heating issues so for now I am prob. going to leave it stock. Really just looking to pep it up a bit and get the sound.
You mentioned something about bearings. I have changed the jets once to a different size due to the elevation (3300ft) on the Super E carb.
Thank you for your input.

 

Nope. Gears=no chain=no tensioners.

 

Once you get beyond too much lift, you have to add cubes to support the extra air and duration to change the performance appreciably (or head work).
The more air, the bigger carb and intake you need and the better exhaust system you need. If you get really big lift then you have to mod the heads and the pistons, too, maybe (I don't think that would work on the street for much of a rideable experience).

The inner cam bearings on some years of HD's (mine and yours are some) aren't up to snuff for durability. How much did HD save by putting in caged bearings? Probably a whopping $5 a bike. I suppose, in theory, that a caged bearing allows for more oil circulation but it also spaces out the rollers which do not support the cam bearing journals as well as the Torrington bearings that are an 'upgrade'.

In hot rods the old theory was roller bearings were better for high rpm's. For durability, shim style bearings were better. They provided absolutely continuous journal support on a 'sheet' of oil. I really haven't been involved in hot rodding for many years, but the newer oils probably have changed some of the old rules of thumbs.

The Torrington bearings are continuous roller. They support the cam better. They aren't expensive but you need a special tool to pull the old ones out and to put the new ones in. If there's no wear on your existing cams you can keep them even with the new bearings. My Andrews 24 perked up my bike for highway riding. The SE204's are for the 96" (more cubes than ours) and replace what was for ours the SE203's. They are similar to the TW24. I have a buddy that has a SE211 in his 88 (he is the service manager at a dealer). His torque curve comes on earlier and lasts longer. On the road at 60 m.p.h. you can't tell the difference. Over a 1/4 mile you can. On long road trips you can, too! <grin>

C#