Never done the clay bar thing, figured it was a marketing ploy. Never really owned anything I'd put that much detail in either, nothing show wise anyways, always beg, borrowing, stealin to keep my scoots runnin over the years...workin me **** off to survive.

 

You use the ICE on chrome too?

 

Thanks for the info. I'll have to try it on my bike.

 

The clay bar does do a great job and as Tony said, you'll be amazed especially if you have an older finish! I've always used Mother's products over the years when I done car shows. Although, there are obviously several brands and you want to make sure depending on the condition of your paint which you use...some brands are more aggressive. I've preferred the Mother's Gold bar with newer finishes because it isn't as hard and is less likely to scratch your finish. I think I've seen Mother's Gold kits that provide everything you'll need because you'll also need to seal the finish with a good glazing compound prior to waxing.

Some will say it is a good time to use a scratch remover, but I've never had good results with removing scratches using the hand application type products and have found the best method for scratches is to bust out the variable speed buffer and that's another topic all in itself. LOL

There is a ton of information available on using the clay bar and everyone seems to have their own techniques so there's no point in me explaining my process...but I would strongly recommend the Mother's products. Check out some of the detailing forums online and you'll find this topic can get more heated than our discussions on oil! LOL

Tony, we need to nickname you Mr. Clean! LOL Or at least use Mr. Clean's pic for an avatar!!

 

+1 to that. You not only want to wash the finish, but strip off any exisiting wax before you start claying. Diluted Dawn dish soap works excellent for this and won't harm the paint.

Claying is an acquired touch. You want only enough detail spray to act as a lubricant for the clay. It's normal to feel some spots of resistance to movement when you start... that's the claybar pulling out the impurities. If you use too much lubricant, the bar will "swim" over the surface and do nothing. Too little, and it will break up or "stall" on the surface. I use Adam's products, but this instructional video from Adam applies to any detail spray / claybar product:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...aying_Car.aspx

 

Great video! thanks. I'll be going this next time I was the bike.

 

Mr. Clean? LOL,,, yea, I guess so! I have been called much worse in my day! In case your wondering the clay bar will remove the old wax for you, no need going through all the trouble and worry about stripping the old wax off. I don't know why but yes, I am very picky about my cars and bikes. I just can't see that kind of an expense going uncared for or abused. I can't stand the thought of anyone seeing my bike or car looking nasty and not 100% as sweet as I can make them look. I never got anything for free, working my entire life for anything and everything I have ever had or owned. Also any clay bar can be used on chrome and glass too. Pinicle is by far the best affordable product but sometimes hard to find. Mothers is my 2nd choice as well. Zymol is the only wax I use because it has 1 of the highest carnuba contents in it and it has NO solvent base products in it what so ever, 1 of a very few. It uses citrus as a cleaner and bee's wax as a binder agent. Shine on brothers, shine on!!!

 

Sorry, but that's not correct. The clay bar will loosen, but not remove existing wax. I got that advice straight from Adam, and he makes nothing by recommending Dawn lol! Besides, what "trouble and worry"? You have to wash the bike first anyway. How is it extra work to use Dawn dish soap instead of the usual car wash product?

 

I have been thinking about doing this to my 1971 VW. The paint is perfect, but no longer shines. I think you have convinced me.

 

So basically, I should wash the bike. Dry it. Use the detailer lubricant and clay bar, then a good polish to seal?