Sliding gas tank back for access to wiring
#11
The handlebar connectors aren't too bad to take apart, in fact the easiest of all the connectors I've disassembled. If yours are like mine, when you separate the plug, there will be an orange cap on the end. carefully pry this out (it will be a wedge shape) and you'll see the release arms for the pins. just press the release with a small screwdriver and pull the wire and pin out the backside.
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
#12
Be careful sliding the tank back! Right side fuel line crossover line clip is VERY close to rocker cover. If you read other posts you will find many have scratched up the cover when sliding it back. My advice is to just remove the tank. Much easier to work with it out of the way, and no risk of damage. Good luck!
#13
One more thing, I made sure I took a lot of pics w my phone on the wire colors and orientation in the connectors before I started popping them out. My wire colors were different then my service manual said. Came in handy when I went to pop the wires back into the connectors.
#14
The handlebar connectors aren't too bad to take apart, in fact the easiest of all the connectors I've disassembled. If yours are like mine, when you separate the plug, there will be an orange cap on the end. carefully pry this out (it will be a wedge shape) and you'll see the release arms for the pins. just press the release with a small screwdriver and pull the wire and pin out the backside.
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
#15
Be careful sliding the tank back! Right side fuel line crossover line clip is VERY close to rocker cover. If you read other posts you will find many have scratched up the cover when sliding it back. My advice is to just remove the tank. Much easier to work with it out of the way, and no risk of damage. Good luck!
#16
#17
The handlebar connectors aren't too bad to take apart, in fact the easiest of all the connectors I've disassembled. If yours are like mine, when you separate the plug, there will be an orange cap on the end. carefully pry this out (it will be a wedge shape) and you'll see the release arms for the pins. just press the release with a small screwdriver and pull the wire and pin out the backside.
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
As for the tank, it's not as bad to remove as everyone says. Go to Lowes and pick up a couple of the smallest needle nose vise grips you can find. I got some for $4 each, nothing fancy. Clamp the crossover on each side of the frame (on the rubber hose, don't damage the metal nipples) Place a towel under the line and snip it between the vise grips. Very little spillage. Put the tank on your workbench, set up a piece of hose from one side of the crossover down into a gas can. release one clamp and drain the fuel. And I've never pulled the fuel pump fuse to disconnect the line, hasn't been an issue.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
I have a suspicion that the OP's scoot is going to use Molex. If so, here is a link to a thread about disassembling molex connectors.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...onnectors.html
If you don't have small drill bits or the actual tool mentioned in the service manual you can do as I did a use a pair of hemostats (locking needle nose pliers from the sporting goods section and used to help remove fish hooks) and a sturdy sewing needle. You place the needle in the jaws of the hemostats and lock them closed so that what you end up with is a very fine pick tool. Using the hemostats or some sort of securing tool is essential because you will most likely need to use one hand to both hold the plug and insert the tool into those tiny holes while using the other hand to pull the wire out at the same time. The like above is great but it doesn't clearly mention that you have to have the tool inserted while you pull the wire out. You can't just insert the tool, remove it and then pull the wire. The moment you remove the tool from the hole the lock will re-engage. Also, besides the steps outlined in the link, you have to remove a cap from the back of the connector. This should be pretty self explanatory. It has two small locking tabs on either side and you can use an electrical pick or a small flat blade driver to pry the little tabs up and then pull back on the cap. Underneath that there will be an orange rubber gasket that the wires feed through. If you pull this rubber out while removing the wires then don't worry. It just fits in there with pressure and is easily re-installed.
Unlike what is stated in the write up, the H-D service manual DOES have a section on how to take apart EVERY type of connector found on the motorcycle...provided you have the correct manual for your year/model Harley. I learned everything I needed to know to do mine from my 2008 Service Manual.
The tank is not hard to remove. Just a pain in the *** no matter how you approach it. You can either have a bigger mess by going by how the service manual tells you to do it. Or, you can spend more time and money by having to go out and but extra tools, fuel hose, clamps and then reassemble the crossover. Either way is not "hard". Just tedious. It just depends on what suits you best.
Also, keep in mind that if you do just "slide" your tank back, you run a very good chance of scratching the top of your front rocker box cover. This happens when the clamp on the left side of the of the fuel cross over line comes into contact with the rocker box cover. I thought I took precautions on mine by covering my box cover with a cloth but the rough parts of the clamp still scratched it. I was not too concerned because one the tank was back on the scratches were underneath and could not be seen and also because once some money is freed up I plan to switch them out for something in black.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
#18
This description of the connectors above sounds like the Deutsche connectors which have round pins at the end of the wires. I'm not 100% certain but I think after a certain year, Harley switched over to Molex connectors which are a little more involved to disassemble but still should be relatively easy.
I have a suspicion that the OP's scoot is going to use Molex. If so, here is a link to a thread about disassembling molex connectors.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...onnectors.html
If you don't have small drill bits or the actual tool mentioned in the service manual you can do as I did a use a pair of hemostats (locking needle nose pliers from the sporting goods section and used to help remove fish hooks) and a sturdy sewing needle. You place the needle in the jaws of the hemostats and lock them closed so that what you end up with is a very fine pick tool. Using the hemostats or some sort of securing tool is essential because you will most likely need to use one hand to both hold the plug and insert the tool into those tiny holes while using the other hand to pull the wire out at the same time. The like above is great but it doesn't clearly mention that you have to have the tool inserted while you pull the wire out. You can't just insert the tool, remove it and then pull the wire. The moment you remove the tool from the hole the lock will re-engage. Also, besides the steps outlined in the link, you have to remove a cap from the back of the connector. This should be pretty self explanatory. It has two small locking tabs on either side and you can use an electrical pick or a small flat blade driver to pry the little tabs up and then pull back on the cap. Underneath that there will be an orange rubber gasket that the wires feed through. If you pull this rubber out while removing the wires then don't worry. It just fits in there with pressure and is easily re-installed.
Unlike what is stated in the write up, the H-D service manual DOES have a section on how to take apart EVERY type of connector found on the motorcycle...provided you have the correct manual for your year/model Harley. I learned everything I needed to know to do mine from my 2008 Service Manual.
The tank is not hard to remove. Just a pain in the *** no matter how you approach it. You can either have a bigger mess by going by how the service manual tells you to do it. Or, you can spend more time and money by having to go out and but extra tools, fuel hose, clamps and then reassemble the crossover. Either way is not "hard". Just tedious. It just depends on what suits you best.
Also, keep in mind that if you do just "slide" your tank back, you run a very good chance of scratching the top of your front rocker box cover. This happens when the clamp on the left side of the of the fuel cross over line comes into contact with the rocker box cover. I thought I took precautions on mine by covering my box cover with a cloth but the rough parts of the clamp still scratched it. I was not too concerned because one the tank was back on the scratches were underneath and could not be seen and also because once some money is freed up I plan to switch them out for something in black.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I have a suspicion that the OP's scoot is going to use Molex. If so, here is a link to a thread about disassembling molex connectors.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...onnectors.html
If you don't have small drill bits or the actual tool mentioned in the service manual you can do as I did a use a pair of hemostats (locking needle nose pliers from the sporting goods section and used to help remove fish hooks) and a sturdy sewing needle. You place the needle in the jaws of the hemostats and lock them closed so that what you end up with is a very fine pick tool. Using the hemostats or some sort of securing tool is essential because you will most likely need to use one hand to both hold the plug and insert the tool into those tiny holes while using the other hand to pull the wire out at the same time. The like above is great but it doesn't clearly mention that you have to have the tool inserted while you pull the wire out. You can't just insert the tool, remove it and then pull the wire. The moment you remove the tool from the hole the lock will re-engage. Also, besides the steps outlined in the link, you have to remove a cap from the back of the connector. This should be pretty self explanatory. It has two small locking tabs on either side and you can use an electrical pick or a small flat blade driver to pry the little tabs up and then pull back on the cap. Underneath that there will be an orange rubber gasket that the wires feed through. If you pull this rubber out while removing the wires then don't worry. It just fits in there with pressure and is easily re-installed.
Unlike what is stated in the write up, the H-D service manual DOES have a section on how to take apart EVERY type of connector found on the motorcycle...provided you have the correct manual for your year/model Harley. I learned everything I needed to know to do mine from my 2008 Service Manual.
The tank is not hard to remove. Just a pain in the *** no matter how you approach it. You can either have a bigger mess by going by how the service manual tells you to do it. Or, you can spend more time and money by having to go out and but extra tools, fuel hose, clamps and then reassemble the crossover. Either way is not "hard". Just tedious. It just depends on what suits you best.
Also, keep in mind that if you do just "slide" your tank back, you run a very good chance of scratching the top of your front rocker box cover. This happens when the clamp on the left side of the of the fuel cross over line comes into contact with the rocker box cover. I thought I took precautions on mine by covering my box cover with a cloth but the rough parts of the clamp still scratched it. I was not too concerned because one the tank was back on the scratches were underneath and could not be seen and also because once some money is freed up I plan to switch them out for something in black.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I am probably going to attempt to slide the tank back, just to keep from having to drain the almost full tank of gas I have in it ... but if that doesn't work, I will remove it. I have a sturdy sewing needle (well, my wife does) and I will get a pair of hemostats like you stated...that seems the easiest route.
Thanks again!
#19
#20
Man just reading over this reminds me of how much I hate those wire extension kits. The easiest way to do them(in my opinion) is to just cut the wires about 4" from the plug and splicing them. That way when u splice one end you can tag the wires w a piece of tape and u won't get the colors mixed up. And the tank is easy to take off, I would recommend asking ur neighbor or someone for a hand. I usually just pump out the fuel w a small hand pump, the I use another person to help me plug up the crossover hose w his finger while I plug the other side w mine. Then drain it all into a bucket and use it for mowing the lawn lol. Good luck man, my first time it took me literally ALL day.