Dont get me wrong, I live the bikes. My gripe is the soft as hell bolts they put on everything. What is the deal? Everytime I want to do a small mod I strip 2 bolts and have to fight them to get them out and then have to run to the store for a replacement because I ruined that one. I'm low on patience anyway. I'm done, continue what you were doing. Lol

 

Stripping the heads or threads? I'm guessing heads since you mention fighting to get them out. I've removed thousands in over 45 years of wrenching, picked up a few tips:
First, put reasonable pressure on it, and if it doesn't come loose, a few things to try before getting that cheater bar or impact wrench. Start off with penetrating oil, get that working while you try other stuff. If an Allen, torx, or phillips, tap the wrench with a hammer; if possible, put pressure on the wrench and tap the back as if you're trying to drive it in while trying to turn it at the same time. If you have one of those handheld impact removers you hit with a hammer, it should do this even better. For hex or other flat heads, hit with a punch, wide enough it won't dimple the head. If you can, put a box end wrench on it, apply pressure, and hit the head with a hammer - this can be awkward with one person. Heat can really help, not the bolt, but the surrounding area. On a Harley, NOT a torch - one of those heat guns like a hair dryer on steroids is best, but you have to consider the surrounding materials; beware of plastic, rubber/plastic grommets and gaskets, and anything with gas in it. If it moves just a little and jams up, tighten it back (but not as tight as it started), back out trying to get just a hair more turn, and repeat. I've taken over an hour removing a bolt this way, and got it out without damaging the hole threads - but you'll throw away that bolt, the threads are almost certainly deformed, even if you can't see it; running it through a die will remove deformed areas, but it will have less material and likely stress cracks you can't see. I've seen big re-used #8 bolts shear under far from max rated loads after "refurbishing" them. Don't get real enthusiastic with taps and dies; sometimes they're the only way, but don't use one just so you can screw it down with your fingers. And then there's times I deliberately shear off the head, even using a chisel, or drill it off (preferred, if you can get a drill on it). With the pressure of the head removed, sometimes the threaded portion comes out fairly easy with an easy out. When removing something like a case cover, and one bolt/screw won't move, or the allen/torx/phillips head strips out, carefully drill the head off, remove the cover, and often there's enough stub sticking up to get a vise grip on it. There's actually a pretty small torque spread where the bolt threads have stretched the perfect amount; I can usually feel pretty close, but I still have torque wrenches - and use them. I seldom have any trouble with a bolt I've previously installed properly myself. It sucks having to buy new bolts, but that's just part of being a mechanic. And an impatient mechanic will do it even more. I've seen jet airliner bolts costing over a thousand dollars that had to be destroyed to remove.

 

What I have found especially on Torx type bolts is to Not try and loosen slowly but rather give it a quick turn to break the initial seal. Also be sure to always use the correct size Bit.


Mike
NY

 

+1 and use quality tools. Cheap tools always cost you more in the long run...

 

I used to have some stuff called nutcracker. Got it at napa but its been hard to find latley. my buddy said its just some brake fluid and engine oil mixed? Worked like a hot damn though. Put it on a rusted bolt or nut that had been sitting 20+ years and three mins later it just spun out like a brand new part. If you can find some GET IT! lol

 

I just looked that stuff up, is it really cherry scented? Or is that just the nutcracker plus? lol

Sounds like good stuff

 

I have to agree with the OP on this. I've thought the very same thing many times while working on my Harley. I just never came on here to mention it. But I think they use **** bolts as well.

 

One of the best investments you can make when working on any motorcycle is an impact driver, the kind that you hit with a hammer. It's an absolute necessity and they are cheap to purchase.

 

Ancient Chinese Secret. Before trying to loosen any factory installed bolts, mainly Torx bolts. First give the head of the bolt a nice tap with a hammer, or several taps. The shocking sometimes is enough to help the bolt break loose.

 

PB Nutblaster works pretty darn good too for stuck bolts. Sold just about any auto parts store. I think Wally world might even have it.