Sportster question
#1
Sportster question
If this has been covered please point me in that direction. I am new to this site, 50 something year old women that is getting frustrated with my ride. Last fall had a little issue of what appeared to be carb loading up ? When I would slow to an idle bike would die unless I kept on the throttle a bit. Carb adjusted, finished the season. Started riding more and more this season, problem returned :-( took bike to mechanic. Completely gone over. New air filter, new plugs, cleaned gas completely out , new gas new intake manifold gaskets, carb off, carb cleaned, carb on, new fuel, carb off, get the picture??, new float, new needle, new slide, adj. air screw, carb on. Checked for any vacuum leaks ( none found) Thought the problem was fixed (mech rode it, let it idle forever, seemed to be ok) I have ridden 40-75 miles several times no problem. This past weekend rode over 100 miles from home and it all started again but worse. Still wanting to die at idle but now sounding bad and felt like a bucking bronc at pretty much any speed. Had to restart more than once in intersections and the last time blew out a large puff black smoke with no odor and rode with NO signs of any issue the last 30 miles home. From 15 mph to 70 mph. I am not able to do the work myself but do understand the workings of an engine and am looking for info to help guide my mechanic. HD dealership over 70 miles away and I would rather not take it there. Although parts are bought there. Ugly weather here so would like to get it in to shop asap. Any suggestions appreciated.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; 05-21-2015 at 10:09 AM.
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#8
+1
The crank position sensor makes a bike do really weird things when it goes bad. You wouldn't be the first one to tear a perfectly good carb apart, when the culprit is the sensor. Been there, done that. Cleaning the sensor didn't help. I had to replace it with a new one. In my case, I had another sensor in a different Sportster to use as a diagnostic tool (swapping the suspected bad sensor for a known good unit). Once I discovered what to check, it took about 20 minutes and the bike was good to go.
Crank Position Sensor part # 32804-04A.
The crank position sensor makes a bike do really weird things when it goes bad. You wouldn't be the first one to tear a perfectly good carb apart, when the culprit is the sensor. Been there, done that. Cleaning the sensor didn't help. I had to replace it with a new one. In my case, I had another sensor in a different Sportster to use as a diagnostic tool (swapping the suspected bad sensor for a known good unit). Once I discovered what to check, it took about 20 minutes and the bike was good to go.
Crank Position Sensor part # 32804-04A.
#9
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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+1
The crank position sensor makes a bike do really weird things when it goes bad. You wouldn't be the first one to tear a perfectly good carb apart, when the culprit is the sensor. Been there, done that. Cleaning the sensor didn't help. I had to replace it with a new one. In my case, I had another sensor in a different Sportster to use as a diagnostic tool (swapping the suspected bad sensor for a known good unit). Once I discovered what to check, it took about 20 minutes and the bike was good to go.
Crank Position Sensor part # 32804-04A.
The crank position sensor makes a bike do really weird things when it goes bad. You wouldn't be the first one to tear a perfectly good carb apart, when the culprit is the sensor. Been there, done that. Cleaning the sensor didn't help. I had to replace it with a new one. In my case, I had another sensor in a different Sportster to use as a diagnostic tool (swapping the suspected bad sensor for a known good unit). Once I discovered what to check, it took about 20 minutes and the bike was good to go.
Crank Position Sensor part # 32804-04A.