Hey guys I am past due my 1000 mile service(can't seem to get it to the dealer)anyway the first service is free.I asked my salesman if I could pay the differance and have them use synthetic oil instead of dino oil.He said sure that it would be about 4 bucks differance per quart.I suspect that the only synthetic oil they use is HD Syn 3.Is the syn 3 good synthetic oil and worth the extra scratch to use it?Or should I just let them do the change with dino oil and just use a better synthetic oil myself later on?Should I have them use Formula+ in the tranny or go ahead with the syn 3 also?What do you guys suggest.Thanks Roger

 

I recently had my 1K service done, and I had them upgrade to SYN3 all around. From what I've read, it is good enough oil for me.

 

I don't see HD as oil specialists. I see them as looking to take more of our money lol Thats why they are called stealers I use Mobile1 V-twin 20w50 in the motor and Mobile 1 75w90 in the gearbox ie primary/tranny which is the same in Sportsters. Some here will recommend Mobile 1 15W50 for the motor which is alot cheaper then i listed above that probably works just as well.

 

so you are looking at about $12 difference to go to the syn vs dino. Sounds like an easy choice. Yes it would be better to go with the mobil1, but its doubtful that a stealer would do that, and since the 1k service is free I can say as I blame ya for takin it to them.

MH

 

Dude i have over 20000 on my 2008! run Amsoil 20W50 in you engine and primary. It made the engine run cooler and quieter. Also it last much longer than that harley oil.

 

I wouldn't run anything but Syn. Not in my bikes, not in my lawnmower. If you take them the oil you choose to run, I don't see what objection they would have to using it.
I'd be leery of using any kind of hypoid gear oil in the primary. Ok for the gears, but not so good for clutches. The sulfur high pressure additives can cause problems with friction material. The HD oil is carefully formulated to work to be slippery enough for gears and grippy enough for clutches. The MOCO may not be oil experts, but they can certainly sub out that work and come up with suitable lube. They don't have any incentive to make and sell poor oil.
Don't stray too far from the recommended viscosity in engines with hydraulic tappets, like the HDs. The oil has to have both the proper lubrication AND hydraulic properties for them to work right.

 

Oil changes Is just Good Insurance for your engine. I read a study once on this,,
Test subject was a ford V6.
They rated roach oil against synthetic,,Both Oil's were considerd depleted when the additive package was used up
and this is when the Oil by volume reaches 6% contaminates.
The engines were driven all In the city all stop and go,,musta took forever,,
OK OK the Roach oil reached 6% contaminats at an average of 7,000 miles
The synthetic Oil reached this same level at an average of 16,000 miles.
This Is considerd the outter limit where engine damage actually starts, damage as in accelerated wear.
The engines used were both broken in and changed once before the test, both had I think 5,000 miles at the start of the test.
The Oil was monitored by taking whats called "Soap samples" and sending It to a lab.
This engine holds 5 plus quarts of oil,,,My Sportster holds what,,,a bit less than three quarts,,,
SO I call that half the Oil volume,,,,,,
SO,,almost done here, stay with me,,,,
that tells me engine wear can start in my sporty as soon as 3,500 miles on roach oil
and as soon as 8,000 miles on full synthetics
The reccomendations for normal use in a V6 were 5,000 max for roach oil and 10,000 max for synthetics.
At this point Oil can begin to give less protection against thermal breakdown.
And as the level of contaminates increases two things can happen, The Filter flow rate can be reduced because
of solid contaminates and the actual amount of Oil between critical parts Is less because of contaminates taking
up some volume between the bearings and other moving parts.
I got mine used and don't log alot of miles per month. It had the 1,000 mile service at the dealer and I changed to syn3
at 2500 miles. At 5,000 I'm changin it just to be safe,,,and then since Its a smaller amount of Oil than a car I'm probly gonna stick
to synthetics and an Interval of 3,500 miles or so between changes,,cause Oil Is cheap Insurance.
Thats my story an I'm Stickin to it !

 

Thanks for the info guys.I thought about taking my own oil to them but if Syn3 is good enough for now I would be crazy not to do it,since I only have to pay the difference in the cost of the oil.I have looked for Amsoil around here but I can't find any,Mobil 1 products are easy to get here though and since I have not had any trouble out of my truck or car using Mobil 1synthetic I will go that route at the next oil change.Roger

 

If your oil volume is half of a V6 and the number of engine parts making contaminates is approximately one third, perhaps you could actually EXTEND the number of miles before a change was necessary based on volume of oil contaminates?

 

There are alot of good oil's/lubricants out there, but HD Synth isn't one of the top rated. Recommend you supply your own oil (M1 20W50 Synth is my choice) & have them deduct from service...money well saved & your scoot will be better off.