883-1200 stage 2 screamin eagle kit
#21
That's a good starter kit but don't forget the $300-400 for the dyno tune which is worth it. Personally I'd bore the stock cylinders buy a set of pistons and a race tuner and save the rest for head work, you don't need the cams as your bike has good set in it from the factory, unless you are planning on doing a LOT of racing.
#22
#23
#24
Howdy, got my 883C back last week fitted with the SE 883 - 1200cc Stg 1 kit. Also had the stock cams replaced with the performance bolt-ins 0.551" cams (25197-04) same cams as listed in the stg2 883 -1200 kit. I also have V&H big radius pipes fitted.
After final tune, bike is now producing 80HPRW @ 6400rpm. Maximum torue 72.5 @ 5300rpm.
Compared to the 883 with V&H pipes. it did have a good flat torque curve. 3000 - 6000 around 47 Ib's. Peaked at 49.46HP.
After final tune, bike is now producing 80HPRW @ 6400rpm. Maximum torue 72.5 @ 5300rpm.
Compared to the 883 with V&H pipes. it did have a good flat torque curve. 3000 - 6000 around 47 Ib's. Peaked at 49.46HP.
#28
Why not just buy a 1200C?
In the late 70's I ran a 66 Corvair with a Chevy 350 V8, 12.5-1, holly-650-4, venturi intake, 1/4 race cam 60's on the front, 50's on the rear, flipped the trans-axle and motor installation rails in the back seat (no more back seat!).
What a ride for 1 year, then I couldn't renew the license due to new regulations/laws.
The moral?
Its fun to screw with stuff, lets screw with the man and see if we can fix him! (He seems to be broken)
Regards to all,
In the late 70's I ran a 66 Corvair with a Chevy 350 V8, 12.5-1, holly-650-4, venturi intake, 1/4 race cam 60's on the front, 50's on the rear, flipped the trans-axle and motor installation rails in the back seat (no more back seat!).
What a ride for 1 year, then I couldn't renew the license due to new regulations/laws.
The moral?
Its fun to screw with stuff, lets screw with the man and see if we can fix him! (He seems to be broken)
Regards to all,
#29
#30
I've been debating this over and over. To do the conversion or not, stage 1 or stage 2. I'm probably way off base here, given I'm a newb, but does anyone think there's a reason it's set up stage 1 and stage 2. I was thinking stage 1 would have to come first, considering you get the heads. Then stage 2 for high comp pistons and jugs and tuning. Although, the dealer stated to me that with either kit I would need the tuner, so I'm left with a quoted price from dealer of 2800 for either kit dyno tuned and on the road. Struggling with which one to go with, or, should I just trade for a 1200. The only thing that gets me is... I love the look and set up I've already got working on my iron, but I'm worrried, scared, nerveous about my bike runnning into reliability issues or longevity issues going with a conversion. A lot of cash to drop into a bike, and probably wouldn't see much of a return if a trade or resale were to happen. Anyone already have a conversion out there. Thoughts?