Getting ready to put up the bike for the winter. This is my first bike and first winter storage. I have a garage (not heated) and just had the first service performed on it. Would like to ask for advice on the best ways to store it over the winter. Thanks for the help!

 

Hook it up to a battery tender, top off the gas tank, and roll the tires on to a piece of carpet or something to get the tires off the concrete floor. Some even go as far as to cover it and stick a 25 or 40 watt light bulb under it to help with condensation. And do not go out and start it once a week, it is better to leave it sit.

 

Well since your new I will answer. Just to let you know that search bar at the top of the screen would bring up about 800 threads on this topic.
Alright first put a fuel stabilizer in the tank then fill it with fuel. The reason you fill it is to minimize area for condensation to form. I use seafoam because it doubles as a fuel system cleaner but sta-bil is fine too.
Now how old is the oil. If you have more than 1000 miles on it change it out. When combustion occurs exhaust gasses pass by the rings. These gasses contain sulfur and your oil over time will turn acidic which will score metal in the engine and ruin bearings. I use a cheap diesel oil because in the spring I only run out the first tank then change it again with a quality synthetic. Run the motor with the new oil for a few minutes to wash out the inside of the motor. It's best to take it in a 10-20 minute ride so the oil gets hot and gets all around inside.
If the primary oil is ready to change as well as transmission fluid I dint bother with that until my first spring oil change. If you get any condensation you have ruined the new stuff if you change it now.
If your bike is carb'd spray a fogging oil into the carb with the fuel petcock off so you can drain all the fuel from the line leading to the carb.
Next ideally you wNt the bike off the ground so the tires don't flat spot. If a jack is unavailable you can use like 6 or 8 2x4 about 16" long nailed together and put the frame on top of those. You will need 2 of those nailed together "lifts".
Now for the battery. For 30 bucks you can buy what's called a battery tender. It senses when the battery's voltage is getting low and will trifle charge it until it's at the correct voltage. A battery charger set to trickle is not the same and is not recommended.
Now once you have all of this done you must resist temptation and DO NOT START THE BIKE. This would be considered a dry start and no oil will be in the top end accelerating wear. It also only gets the bike warm not hot. Fuel will blow by the rings getting into the oil and the oil doesn't get hot enough to evaporate it out. Fuel diluted oil isn't good for your engine. It also causes condensation and this condensation doesn't get evaporated because the bike doesn't get hot enough.
I think that about covers it. If I missed something I am sure another member will clue me in.
Ride safe

 

Well since your new I will answer. Just to let you know that search bar at the top of the screen would bring up about 800 threads on this topic.
Alright first put a fuel stabilizer in the tank then fill it with fuel. The reason you fill it is to minimize area for condensation to form. I use seafoam because it doubles as a fuel system cleaner but sta-bil is fine too.
Now how old is the oil. If you have more than 1000 miles on it change it out. When combustion occurs exhaust gasses pass by the rings. These gasses contain sulfur and your oil over time will turn acidic which will score metal in the engine and ruin bearings. I use a cheap diesel oil because in the spring I only run out the first tank then change it again with a quality synthetic. Run the motor with the new oil for a few minutes to wash out the inside of the motor. It's best to take it in a 10-20 minute ride so the oil gets hot and gets all around inside.
If the primary oil is ready to change as well as transmission fluid I dint bother with that until my first spring oil change. If you get any condensation you have ruined the new stuff if you change it now.
If your bike is carb'd spray a fogging oil into the carb with the fuel petcock off so you can drain all the fuel from the line leading to the carb.
Next ideally you wNt the bike off the ground so the tires don't flat spot. If a jack is unavailable you can use like 6 or 8 2x4 about 16" long nailed together and put the frame on top of those. You will need 2 of those nailed together "lifts".
Now for the battery. For 30 bucks you can buy what's called a battery tender. It senses when the battery's voltage is getting low and will trifle charge it until it's at the correct voltage. A battery charger set to trickle is not the same and is not recommended.
Now once you have all of this done you must resist temptation and DO NOT START THE BIKE. This would be considered a dry start and no oil will be in the top end accelerating wear. It also only gets the bike warm not hot. Fuel will blow by the rings getting into the oil and the oil doesn't get hot enough to evaporate it out. Fuel diluted oil isn't good for your engine. It also causes condensation and this condensation doesn't get evaporated because the bike doesn't get hot enough.
I think that about covers it. If I missed something I am sure another member will clue me in.
Ride safe

 

I do all of the things listed, but I go ahead and remove my battery and store it inside on a tender, same with my seat, windshield, and anything I can easily take off. I top off my fuel tank and drain the carb with the drain screw, after closing the petcock.

Check your tires every few weeks to make sure they are full of air, you don't want them going flat. I don't have a lift, so I make sure to leave some room in front of and/or behind the bike when I park it so I can roll it around every week or so. Don't want to keep the same spot on the tire on the ground for the whole Winter.

I just cover mine with an old bedsheet and have a piece of old carpet I park it on. Works for me.

 

Most of the above, but I leave the seat, windshield, etc. on the bike and leave the battery in it and have in on a battery tender with quick connection. I don't put it on a lift, just tires on some pieces of old carpet and roll it weekly.
I keep it ready to ride if a warmer day comes up, but don't fire it up unless you are going to ride it for at least 30-45 minutes (long enough to evaporate any condensation in the engine and oil). I won't change my oil until spring because there will be days in the winter when I will ride, so changing in the fall would be a waste of money for me.

 

I was wondering the same thing about winter storage and started a thread not so long ago.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...r-storage.html

1) Installed the HD battery tender,
2) Filled the gas tank with premium fuel (91 Octane),
3) Added fuel stabilizer, let the bike run for 3-4 minutes
4) Removed the seat (stored indoors)
5) Bought the HD indoor/outdoor cover for it and put it on.

I don't have a lift but when they go on sale, I'll get one and put the bike on it.

 

Put in some stablil, cover it, plug in tender, change oil. And ride it on those nice winter days.

 

HD fuel treatment in the gas tank, fill the tank. Battery tender. Cover. Uncover as often as possible to go for rides during the winter.

 

I go to the local gas station, put in racing fuel, (drag strip a mile away).
Pull the Battery, put the battery in my heated storage room, hook up the battery tender, then wait for a nice warm dad to ride, Using the High octane fuel, won't break down in the winter weather, garage not heated! works every year, never fails!