M2 cyclone engine/transmission into a 90 Sportster frame?
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4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: California
Lots of progress
I've made a lot of progress since the last post. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to take many pictures because the garage is too dark.
I got the sprocket I mentioned in my first post. In 1991-1992 model years, Harley had a chain drive option. This sprocket is for those models. Trying to get the transmission lock nut off so I could swap the pulley for the sprocket took quite awhile. Since I didn't have a belt or any way to lock the pulley down so it didn't turn made getting the thing off a chore. I broke 3 pairs of vice grips, 4 bolts and twisted the lug on a 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to get it off. I finally got an impact driver and it came off in about 10 seconds. The sprocket ended up fitting the shaft, but it is 3/16" too narrow. I created a shim using six 1 1/4" reducer plates for electrical junction boxes stacked in front of the sprocket to make up the 3/16". Drilled the shims with the hole for the small keeper bolt. Sprocket is on and the chain is running straight from the rear sprocket to the transmission sprocket. Wheel and chain spins great. No binding, no chaffing.
I ordered a set of forward controls. The cost of a new sprocket cover and all the parts I was going to need to put the mid controls back on ended up being about the same as a set of forwards. Got everything mounted up, and had to figure out how I was going to mount the rear master cylinder. I ended up drilling and tapping the case where the Sportster sprocket cover mounts, then drilled my old sprocket cover. The 1991+ sprocket cover had the rear mounting hole moved about 1/4" rearward and slightly higher than a 1990 cover. A simple adjustment then I was able to attach the rear master cylinder to its stock location and connect it up to the new forward controls.
Saturday, I finished up the last bits of putting everything back together. Filled the oil tank and primary, filled the gas tank and installed the battery which had been sitting on the trickle charger so it was all charged up. Finished all of this at about 10:30pm Saturday night. Went to start it and had gas gushing out of the carb. Found a crack in the plastic connector for the fuel line. A bit of super glue closed the crack up. Continued trying to start it and had a huge backfire out of the carb that blew the carb off the manifold. After some more fiddling, I gave up for the night.
Sunday I went back to trying to get her started. Engine is turning over, but it's not firing. I know it's getting air and fuel, so I check for spark and there is no spark. Damn. Neither spark plug is firing. I knew the electrical was going together too easy. I'm starting at the battery and working my way back to the spark plugs. There has to be something I missed or wires I crossed somewhere. Everything worked prior to the original breakdown and the breakdown had nothing to do with the electrical system so it all should be working fine. Sheesh, I hate electrical problems.
The good thing is that everything else seems to be working as it's supposed to. Once I figure out the ignition problem, she should fire right up. It's been a long road, and there is a light at the end of the tunnel.
I've started looking for a springer to swap my front wheel with the Road King wheel that I have. Going to swap to a spring solo seat and new bars as well, but until I have a running engine this stuff will have to wait.
I got the sprocket I mentioned in my first post. In 1991-1992 model years, Harley had a chain drive option. This sprocket is for those models. Trying to get the transmission lock nut off so I could swap the pulley for the sprocket took quite awhile. Since I didn't have a belt or any way to lock the pulley down so it didn't turn made getting the thing off a chore. I broke 3 pairs of vice grips, 4 bolts and twisted the lug on a 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to get it off. I finally got an impact driver and it came off in about 10 seconds. The sprocket ended up fitting the shaft, but it is 3/16" too narrow. I created a shim using six 1 1/4" reducer plates for electrical junction boxes stacked in front of the sprocket to make up the 3/16". Drilled the shims with the hole for the small keeper bolt. Sprocket is on and the chain is running straight from the rear sprocket to the transmission sprocket. Wheel and chain spins great. No binding, no chaffing.
I ordered a set of forward controls. The cost of a new sprocket cover and all the parts I was going to need to put the mid controls back on ended up being about the same as a set of forwards. Got everything mounted up, and had to figure out how I was going to mount the rear master cylinder. I ended up drilling and tapping the case where the Sportster sprocket cover mounts, then drilled my old sprocket cover. The 1991+ sprocket cover had the rear mounting hole moved about 1/4" rearward and slightly higher than a 1990 cover. A simple adjustment then I was able to attach the rear master cylinder to its stock location and connect it up to the new forward controls.
Saturday, I finished up the last bits of putting everything back together. Filled the oil tank and primary, filled the gas tank and installed the battery which had been sitting on the trickle charger so it was all charged up. Finished all of this at about 10:30pm Saturday night. Went to start it and had gas gushing out of the carb. Found a crack in the plastic connector for the fuel line. A bit of super glue closed the crack up. Continued trying to start it and had a huge backfire out of the carb that blew the carb off the manifold. After some more fiddling, I gave up for the night.
Sunday I went back to trying to get her started. Engine is turning over, but it's not firing. I know it's getting air and fuel, so I check for spark and there is no spark. Damn. Neither spark plug is firing. I knew the electrical was going together too easy. I'm starting at the battery and working my way back to the spark plugs. There has to be something I missed or wires I crossed somewhere. Everything worked prior to the original breakdown and the breakdown had nothing to do with the electrical system so it all should be working fine. Sheesh, I hate electrical problems.
The good thing is that everything else seems to be working as it's supposed to. Once I figure out the ignition problem, she should fire right up. It's been a long road, and there is a light at the end of the tunnel.
I've started looking for a springer to swap my front wheel with the Road King wheel that I have. Going to swap to a spring solo seat and new bars as well, but until I have a running engine this stuff will have to wait.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 243
From: Arizona
If you're on xlforum.org, you may have already seen this, but any answers would be appreciated.
This is actually the first time I have written down my plans for my bike. I have some questions that I know you guys can help answer.
I've found an almost complete, stock I believe, 1997 M2 Cyclone engine and trans that the current owner is selling because he wrecked the bike. From the pictures, everything looks perfect. I'll inspect it closer when I go to buy it. I have a 1990 XLH 1200 with a destroyed rear head. I was looking for a new head, but found the engine and transmission instead. I'm wondering what kind of problems I will run into or things I should look out for when doing this engine swap.
I know this engine is basically a 5 speed sportster engine with Lightening heads and other internal changes (lighter flywheels, etc). It seems like this should be a fairly simple swap. The only physical issue I know of is the 1/4" difference in bolt location for the front motor mount. I will have to put my current CV carb on the new engine because the current owner doesn't know what happened to the one that was on the engine. I assume I'm going to need to be re-jetting it. Right now it is stock for the 1990 engine. I also don't know if the M2 has a belt drive but I want to keep the chain drive. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
I think this model/year comes with the standard D cams, not N4 cams. My riding style is more cruising, not racing, so they should be fine for now. Besides, I have to have something to save for. 8^) Right now I have the stock pipes that the PO did a pretty crappy job of removing the pass thru pipe with SEII slip-ons. I want to replace them with Bassani Ceramic Radial Sweepers. Will these pipes be a problem later if I upgrade to N4 cams? Seems like these would have problems with reversion with more aggressive cams.
I have a Road King steel spoke front wheel that I plan on mounting on a 2"-4" over springer front end. Not exactly sure what length I need to get the stance I want yet.
Is there anything else I should be aware of with the engine swap, or any of my other plans? I will add pictures as the build progresses. I just have to figure out how to post pictures first.
This is actually the first time I have written down my plans for my bike. I have some questions that I know you guys can help answer.
I've found an almost complete, stock I believe, 1997 M2 Cyclone engine and trans that the current owner is selling because he wrecked the bike. From the pictures, everything looks perfect. I'll inspect it closer when I go to buy it. I have a 1990 XLH 1200 with a destroyed rear head. I was looking for a new head, but found the engine and transmission instead. I'm wondering what kind of problems I will run into or things I should look out for when doing this engine swap.
I know this engine is basically a 5 speed sportster engine with Lightening heads and other internal changes (lighter flywheels, etc). It seems like this should be a fairly simple swap. The only physical issue I know of is the 1/4" difference in bolt location for the front motor mount. I will have to put my current CV carb on the new engine because the current owner doesn't know what happened to the one that was on the engine. I assume I'm going to need to be re-jetting it. Right now it is stock for the 1990 engine. I also don't know if the M2 has a belt drive but I want to keep the chain drive. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
I think this model/year comes with the standard D cams, not N4 cams. My riding style is more cruising, not racing, so they should be fine for now. Besides, I have to have something to save for. 8^) Right now I have the stock pipes that the PO did a pretty crappy job of removing the pass thru pipe with SEII slip-ons. I want to replace them with Bassani Ceramic Radial Sweepers. Will these pipes be a problem later if I upgrade to N4 cams? Seems like these would have problems with reversion with more aggressive cams.
I have a Road King steel spoke front wheel that I plan on mounting on a 2"-4" over springer front end. Not exactly sure what length I need to get the stance I want yet.
Is there anything else I should be aware of with the engine swap, or any of my other plans? I will add pictures as the build progresses. I just have to figure out how to post pictures first.
Last edited by snatchcat; Apr 4, 2024 at 09:32 AM.
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