2017 RGS

Just installed stage 1 air cleaner from SE. I already have S&S slip ons with stock headers and cat.

I did the stage 1 tune this morning, but not sure Im completely happy with results. I THINK the bike may be a bit stronger, but I think the rpms got bumped up a little across the board so not sure I like the sound as well. The throttle response does seem better, but wondering if thats just because the rpms are up to begin with.

The help system in the software is a joke and wondering if anyone new of some good resources to learn more about the tuner software and how to do more calibrations. There doesnt seem to be much content on the internet regarding M8's and tuning.

I see tons of preloaded map files, but not sure how to figure out which one I could use different than the basic stage 1 calibration.

Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.

 

TTS is similar to the Screamin Eagle tuners, to the point that you can share files. Go to their website and you might find what you are looking for.

 

I assume you mean TTS's website?

Thanks for the reply, was beginning to think I asked the dumbest, most noob question. lol

I searched every single touring map file in the SE tuner files. None of them really matched closer to just the basic stage 1 tune with SE parts/slipons.

Again, I have S&S slip ons, so not sure how much difference that really makes.

I tried calibrating it again yesterday, loaded the file from the VCI this time, the did the test drive and uploaded the results to the bike.

Seems to be a bit better on the torque. Before it seemed really sluggish at highway speeds especially, but still not sure I like the higher RPMs and the sound that gives. Seems to be a smoother sound when sitting still and hitting the throttle. Not the roar as before, if that makes sense.

Its supposed to rain here today and maybe tomorrow, so not sure how much riding I'll get in. Not sure if the torque seems better because of the lower temperatures here or not. Will test more when I can.

 

So on the website, but still not sure how I would find a specific tuning map based S&S slip ons with SE air.

http://www.mastertune.net/repository.php

 

You have the SEPST (Pro Race Tuner)? Or do you have the new Street Tuner?
Either way if you correctly do Smartuning the ECM will help develop a new fueling map which, at a minimum, is what is needed.
You must install the calibration in Smartune Mode. Then spend time making sure you hit each tune point for 3-4 secs each. This allows the software to gather enough data to offer changes to the current calibration. You accept or edit the results, save the updated calibration, reprogram the ECM, then ride the bike.
If you have successfully covered all the pertinent tune points during your data gathering the resultant updated calibration will provide a noticeable improvement. If not successful, there will be virtually no change in the run quality.

Note:If it was easy everyone would do it but fact is street tuning is difficult even for the experienced simply because it's a real challenge to get ALL the data points necessary to build a complete recalibration of all tuning cells used in all riding conditions.
IMO there is no better way to assure your bike is running at its best than to get it on a dyno and tuned by a competent tuner. You will have no regrets.
Bob

 

Well I just started out with the base stage 1 tune. So I assumed that would get me close to what I should have. But I guess with the S&S slip on's, that threw a kink in the works. Road back to work from lunch since the rain has moved out. Supposed to be pretty hot too, so see how it runs full heat.

ALso, the first tune I did I had EITMS active. Thinking that has to have an affect on how the calibration would work. SO the second tune I turned that off. Maybe thats the difference so far.

 

The S&S slip ons will not make a big difference in the choice of your starting map or base map. The enabling or disabling of EITMS will not either. The best is to have a base map that is as close as you can get to your current configuration, from that you will start adjusting as you ride if you don't do it on a dyno.

It seem you are quite novice to tuning, you might do some reading to understand better the dynamics of tuning. It's not just something you want to try without knowing what you do. That is if you don't expect a lot of result. Case you expect huge differences in performance , then indeed a good tune will make that difference but you have to know what you are doing. The help function in the HD tuner explains what the tuner does but will not explain you what tuning is.
Read some books and get the basics understood. It will get you a long way and you will then understand why a lot of folks wisely bring their bike to a specialized tuner. If you don't bring it to a tuner and understand the physics and mechanics of tuning it brings a whole lot of extra fun and joy to a Harley. Know what you can and respect what you can't.

 

Have you gone through the Harley Tuner online training? These were helpful to me when I started tuning.

Pro Super Tuner training- http://prosupertuner.harley-davidson...uperTuner.aspx

Pro Street Tuner training - http://streetperformancetuner.harley...reetTuner.aspx

The PRO Street tuner has a check box when flashing a tune that says to reset Adaptive Fuel. I do that when I load a Power Vision tune with changes to the fuel table or VE tables.
After resetting these tables the bike will adapt to the new tune over time and make fuel slight fuel trim adjustments. The first ride after flashing a tune and resetting the fuel trims will start out not as smooth until you have completely warmed up the bike and run it for a while letting the ECM establish the new fuel trims. I usually wait until I have done at least a couple of rides to full temp, usually at least an hour of running before judging how the tune performs.

 

I think the bike is getting better. It's hard to tell sometimes if torque is down or better. It still seems down at highway speeds. Particularly in 6th gear, but otherwise I think torque is at least back where it was stock after re tuning and riding around 75 miles.

I think I read somewhere on here someone said stage 1 would see the biggest gains/improvement over stock. I guess I was expecting that, but as a novice tuner I shouldn't have.

I called another dealership last night to see what they charged for tuning and see if they had any earlier appointments than mine which is Aug 5th.

They said they charge 300 for dyno tuning! When I bought the stage 1 kit, and made the service schedule, they said it would be around 175.

Whats the difference? Because I bought the parts there? Or is my dealership going to do a full dyno tune or just install a stock map like Ive done?

 

Yes, I went through all those videos. They were helpful using the software on a basic level I thought, but didn't go in depth on how to manually change some tables/settings.

Like you said, I think gradually with putting some miles on it, its getting better. I think I was worried about the affect on the engine with it being so sluggish at first. That at least has cleared up for the most part.