Down in Aussie Land do they let you changes to aftermarket cams and still cover your engine with warranty?
I think you need to stay with HD parts in order to assure warranty coverage, but things may be different down under?
Bob

 

Talked to my guy at HD and he said we'd be right but yea maybe a HD cam is the way.

 

I'm just starting to dig further into what I bought in November. '07 RK with Super Tuner Pro, Stage 1 intake and V&H Big Shot slip ons - 16K on the clock. Nice and loud, first time Harley buyer.. The guy I bought it from I was owner 2, don't think he knew about the stage 1 kit, just the pipes. Anyhow no VCI came with the bike and the original selling dealer (I'm owner 3) did not have it and ether they could not or would not contact the original owner.

So a few questions. The HD guy basically said no VCI, no updates, you would have to purchase a new one. True, false?
1) Have there been updates to the software - pre EPA settlement?
2) If so are they worth having? The bike runs just fine.
3) What do you all know of these VCI's being sold as refurbished on Ebay?
4) I get more carbon build up in the inside of the right pipe - its' black, versus the left which shows heat rust. V&H says this is normal, is it?

I love the bike, not trying to make it a hot rod but am trying to really get to know it and be in front of things- they say knowledge is power, ha ha.

 

Yes you can buy the cables, yes the refurbished units are fine (remember, the EPA consent decree only affects the United States, not internationally), yes the software gets regular updates as both the Race Tuner, the Street Tuner, and the Super Pro Tuner all use the same software package, just that certain elements are not active for different tuners. Both pipes should be clean, soot means fat somewhere in the rpm scale.

 

OK I've got my SEPST(orange) downloaded the files to my PC had a look around with the software also had a few pages of "how to" loaded,was able to drag and drop in the tuning section, the files for my 2018 were there , did a stage1 load to tuning,files were there, I did do all I could without actually having a bike connected to the PC and I'll put on a high flow filter and higher flowing mufflers tomorrow , plug it all up and see how we go .I didn't save anything so every time I open it's fresh .
The instructions I've followed so far about recording are a few years old ,so if I follow the prompts I should be there tomorrow.
Is there any new processes I should know before i go through with it, I'll do this if it's still correct , do I have to go do a tuning run , I think so but not sure?
6. Insert the correct VCI lead into the grey connector.

7. Connect the other lead from the VCI to your laptop’s USB port.

Uploading the new map into the bike

8. Try not to spend too long on the next part because your ignition and headlight will be on but the engine won’t be running and this will flatten your battery after 30 mins or so.

9. Turn on your bike’s ignition switch and have the Run/Stop switch set to Run but don’t fire up the engine!

10. If the connections are all good then you should see the previously greyed-out “Reflash” icon (the bike with lightning) has now become active. If not, then you need to check the connections again and maybe read the SEPST help files relating to connecting up the VCI.

11. Press the “Reflash” icon.

12. On the next screen under “Programming Status” there are two radio buttons; make sure both “Enable Smart tune Reflash” and “Reset Adaptive Fuel” are selected.

13. Hit “Program ECM Cal” and click “OK” to confirm.

14. Do not mess about with anything now! You can screw up your bike if you do. Just sit on your hands.

15. When “Flash Update Process Complete” is displayed, follow the instructions on the screen exactly: Turn off the ignition and wait 10 seconds.

16. Click "OK" to clear the message.

Great. The bike now has a nice new calibration/map loaded that matches your hardware. Next step is to tune this in for your bike.

Recording data

You still have the VCI all connected up, right?

17. Turn the ignition switch back on.

18. Click the “Toolbox” icon (looks like a toolbox, duh).

19. If things are connected up OK then the bottom three icons on the left of the screen will now be available.

20. Select the “VCI Data Record” icon.

21. At the next screen (“VCI Data Record" ), click “VCI Record Start”.

22. Follow the instructions and, when prompted, turn off the bike and disconnect the VCI from the laptop but not the bike.

23. The VCI has to stay on the bike. So find somewhere to tape it up or bung it in a pannier.

24. Get geared up and ready to spend an hour out on the road. You want a nice long, quiet stretch of road where you can drive safely and uninterrupted at all road speeds in all gears. Finding this road is one of the hardest bits of the tuning process.

25. Don’t start recording until the engine is warm.

Ok to here I'd say so does the orange box still hold about an hour of riding?
If so I'll just go and ride do the 5 to 10 second 5mph step ups for a while , then go ride around like I normally do for a while yes ? after about half an hour vary revs and loads yes ?
But never hammer the throttle or I'll go to open loop yes ?
Come back LEAVE BIKE RUNNING , press the SEPSt button once and turn off bike , then follow instructions
33. Reconnect the SEPST to your laptop. Turn on the bike’s ignition switch.

34. In the SEPST “Toolbox” menu on the “VCI Data Record” screen, select the “Download data” tab.

35. Download the recorded data following the prompts on the screen. Make a note of the filename of the saved data e.g. scribble down something like:
“VCI_121-124211_7.hdx: first data run recorded on March 1st 2012 with new stage 2 hardware fitted, driving about the A14 and the airfield”.

OK so far? You’ve done the hard bit and now all you need to do is merge the recorded data into the canned map you chose earlier, stick this onto the bike and Robert’s your Mum’s brother!

36. If you turned off your laptop then fire it up again, run the SEPST software and load the map you used before, it cannot be a different map with different settings. See steps 1 to 3 above.

37. Go to the “Tuning” screen and click on the “+” signs to expand the “VE Front Cyl” and “VE Rear Cyl” displays on the left of the screen so that you can see “Working”, “Last Saved”, “Original” and “Smart tune” under them.

38. Click and drag the “Working” version of the “VE Front Cyl” table into the lower half of the big space over to the right, selecting the “Display as table” option as you let the mouse button go.

39. Click and drag the “Smart tune” version of the “VE Front Cyl” table into the upper half of the big space over to the right, selecting the “Display as table” option as you let the mouse button go. It doesn’t matter really which cylinder you do first or which two of the four windows you use. Drag and stretch the two windows you used so you can see the tables in both.

40. In the “Smart tune, VE Front Cyl” window, click “Add New...” and use the dialogue file box to locate the file of data you saved in step 35 and open it. You’ll get an error if you try to load a data file recorded using a different map. In the future you might have several sessions’ worth of recorded data and you can open them all now.

41. Now hit “Generate”. It’ll take a little while to generate the new VE table.

42. When it’s finished generating, the “Please wait” disappears and the “Update” button will no longer be greyed out.

43. Check the modified cells in the “Smart tune” table. The ones that the tuning session got data updates for are shown. The actual contents aren’t terribly important at this level of tuning. What is of interest though is the range of the cells you have managed to get data for. You’ll probably have a rash of cells across the middle of the table and not much at the extremes. That’s OK if you did your usual riding as there will be data for that. The cells with no updates are what you missed on your ride and you might want to repeat this all later and try to hit some of those throttle position v RPM combos.

44. Once you are bored with looking at that, hit “Update”.

45. Look now at the “Working” table. The cells to be changed are highlighted in turquoise.

46. Repeat steps 38 to 45 for the other cylinder.

47. Save your modified map by hitting the “Save As...” button on the top right of the screen. Try to give it a useful name, like “176ST002 with first data run made on 1 March 2012.dt0”.

Getting your new tuned map into the bike

48. Make sure you have your modified map selected on the “Tuning” screen if you have more than one map open.

49. Now reflash the ECM as you did in steps 8 to 16, except do not select “Enable Smart Tune Reflash” but do select “Reset Adaptive Fuel”.

50. Follow the on-screen steps like you did before. Then turn off the bike, disconnect everything and wait at least 10 secs before starting the bike.

And that’s all there is to it! You will now have a tuned map in the bike that matches your hardware.
And hopefully we're there ha ha.

MY APOLOGIES TO YOU IF YOU READ ALL THIS THROUGH because if you did it means you are checking to see if I will pass/fail any and all suggestions appreciated and THX to everyone who does.
Cheers.

 

Very well stated and very precise from what I read. Only 50 steps per calibration update!
Remember to do multiple smart tunes so the system can be assured of pulling in the VEs that were too far away the first, second time(s).
Also be sure to get to the cells that you normally don’t get to but will in case of irregular conditions like getting into an intersection and not realizing you are still in 2nd gear and letting the clutch out. That immediately puts you into the upper far right corner area of the calibration. If it isn’t tuned the bike will most likely die right out in the middle of the intersection. Tuned, the bike will chug right out of the that area.
There are other areas where tuning isn’t necessary but desirable because it greatly improves overall ridability especially in those rarely run in areas.
Bob

 

Super. Write up, thanks very much!

 

Thanks guys but was more an "is this the right way " and has anything changed shout out, none of the info is mine it's what I've read up over the last few months, putting this into action might be a clusterfug.
Thanks to anyone who can see I've used their work to get this far.
Oh by the way the local HD MOFOCO got me the wrong parts so I'll have to wait a little longer.

 

It works I downloaded the Stage 1 to my bike through a rejigged race tuner .
Goes a little better , sounds way better.