Thanks all in advance! We had our first nice spurt of spring weekend weather and got the bike out. 2013 FLHX saturday.
Saturday Morning -
Rode about 50 miles and parked for lunch, came out got on bike and drove off, about 1/8th mile down the road the bike started coughing and during twist of throttle would sputter and fall flat on face (check engince light came off and on", but not completely stay on, and did not completely die. I pulled over and shut bike off and checked vitals again just to make sure i didnt miss something on my pre-inspection "lookover" .... everything looked good.

Wouldnt start back up, just cranked and coughed like it wanted to start.. but no dice....

Waited 20 mins, hit the start button, and "BAM" fires right up and I drove it home. No problems.
Saturday Night - changed oil, primary, trans fluid, air filter, plugs, and wires, and drained fuel and fresh top off with FI cleaner as well.

Sunday morning - drove again about 40 miles and stopped for lunch. Went back to back and when I left it started right up, but then about 1/8th mile down road the check engine light came on and it started sputtering again... the light flickered for a while with loss of power , but soon the light went out and she ran fine.

I am very confused and very concerned... short of taking to the stealer and paying for a diagnosis and possible fix, is there something I am missing? maybe an easy checklist ? or pull maxi fuse ?

mods to bike are as follows:
BIg sucker K+N, de-cat, CFR pipes, XL-Vied set AT 70% - rode like this for the first 10,000 miles on bike and never had a problem... hopefully ti wouldnt be related, but im open for criticism/advice!

thanks and i am ready to get back on 2 wheels but afraid of being stranded now - and my girl was way too happy to finally be riding again! have to keep her happy! :icon_ razz:


mike

 

What codes are you getting?

 

Try Cleaning the electrical connector at the throttle body and the ecm. Then put dielectric grease on the connections.

 

Does the check engine light have to be illuminated to pull the code? or is it stored in ECM? Also - how do i pull the code? I have a scanner that hooks to my cars, but i have no idea on a bike where to plug it to, and would think it is some proprietary dealer scanner to pull code? please if there is a way show me the light!!
thanks!

 

With the bike at idle, use a stick to gently move the wires coming from under the tank to the TMAP on the throttle body. If the bike dies, you've found your problem. On some bikes, the zip tie is in the wrong place and some wires eventually break at the connector, because they are tight. This eventually breaks the wire from the engine rocking during acceleration or braking.

 

I will try this tonight - should I take it for a test ride first? for some reason, the initial cold start and go I have no problems... its always after I park her for an hour then try to get back on.

Thanks!

 

It won't matter. Just fire up the bike, and GENTLY move the wires.

 

^^^^^This^^^^^
I have no idea what a TMAP is but this plug is on the side of the throttle body at the 9 o'clock position. It's called the TCA (throttle control acuator). Unplug it and plug it back in several times to clean off any fretting that you may have on the pins. You can take a Q-tip and clean the pins with rubbing alcohol. Put a coat of dielectric grease on the pins and plug back in. This is associated with "limp mode" and may not be your exact problem but it's a good place to start.

2010 Limited with some stuff!!

 

really need to see what codes are stored, your auto scanner wont doit here is the proceedure to retrieve them
The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

once you get the codes and see what is showing then you know where to start looking.

 

This may help.