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Changing Wheel Bearings

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  #1  
Old 06-06-2015, 06:06 PM
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Default Changing Wheel Bearings

Has anyone ever used a blind hole bearing puller for removing wheel bearings? I already have a puller set and would like to use it for this instead of buying the "special tool" . Will use a piece of threaded rod and the appropriate size washers to install the new ones.
 
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:35 PM
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As long as you press the new ones in by supporting the outer race it will be fine.

Mike
 
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:38 PM
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It is not easy, but it can be done. The blind puller set I had access to needed an "adjustment" to make it work. I had to grind the catch of the insert to be a little sharper so it could wedge between the bearing and spacer tube. You basically only have the small radius on the bearing race to grab at first since the tube is flush against both inner bearing races. The correct puller is way easier. I would also recommend getting the bearings as cold as possible before installing them. It is easy to get the bearings wedged due to the soft aluminum hubs.

Edit: You did not state what year bike you are working on, I can only stand by my statements above concerning the 25mm sealed bearings. I have never pulled the older cone type bearings.
 

Last edited by Roadie09; 06-06-2015 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:34 PM
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I used the rental tool program and rented a blind puller from my local Autozone. Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and I also used a threaded rod and a couple of large washers. They (bearings) almost dropped in with very little effort.
 
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:50 PM
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I threw the wheel in the trunk an took it to autozone an pulled it there so I didn't have to rent it an then return it.
 
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:24 AM
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I see some things that can be disturbing here.

1) Id be careful about a bearing that almost falls in, these are an interference fit. Wheel bore may be too loose causing the bearing to spin.
2) These are packed and sealed bearings, freezing overnight may ruin the seal, and most greases may not survive freezing temps.
 

Last edited by bagman1; 06-07-2015 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:51 AM
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Bikes set in the winter no problems with bearings after. Putting it in freezer will drop the size about .001 a inch. Maybe more. Really only needs to be in there for a hour or a bit more. Just put in zip lock bag to keep out the frost.
 
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bagman1
2) These are packed and sealed bearings, freezing overnight may ruin the seal, and most greases may not survive freezing temps.
I have yet to see grease ruined by freezing, it may get thicker when it freezes but it still lubricates and returns to normal once warmed up.

It may also be possible to ruin a seal in cold condition but highly unlikely, they are designed to work in extreme conditions. Most vehicles on the road these days use sealed wheel bearings. I know of cars and trucks at work that have over 300,000 miles on them driving in extreme conditions of down to minus 35-40c and are still running on original wheel bearings.
 
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bagman1
I see some things that can be disturbing here.

1) Id be careful about a bearing that almost falls in, these are an interference fit. Wheel bore may be too loose causing the bearing to spin.
2) These are packed and sealed bearings, freezing overnight may ruin the seal, and most greases may not survive freezing temps.
OK let me clarify my "almost falls in" comment. My intent was to inform all attempting this task is that it is very easy task that is made much easier by freezing the bearing. And no one will ever have any issue with freezing a bearing ....Period! "Grease not surviving freezing" really...give me a fu#*ing break!
 
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Roadie09
It is not easy, but it can be done. The blind puller set I had access to needed an "adjustment" to make it work. I had to grind the catch of the insert to be a little sharper so it could wedge between the bearing and spacer tube. You basically only have the small radius on the bearing race to grab at first since the tube is flush against both inner bearing races. The correct puller is way easier. I would also recommend getting the bearings as cold as possible before installing them. It is easy to get the bearings wedged due to the soft aluminum hubs.

Edit: You did not state what year bike you are working on, I can only stand by my statements above concerning the 25mm sealed bearings. I have never pulled the older cone type bearings.
Sorry.... Its a 2008 ultra with ABS
 


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