FYI only!!! My rear rotor failed at about 20K miles. I had my rear brake pads replaced and notice the bike would jerk each time I applied my rear brake. I took it back to the same HD service center and was told that the disc maybe warped. They replaced rear disc brake and jerk disappeared.

Did not replaced front brake pads yet. The pads has about 3/32 left.

2012 rkc and its approaching 25Kmiles.

 

Brake rotors don't "fail". They warp when they get too hot, it could be 5 miles or 50,000 depending on your braking habits.

 

Maybe from over use of the rear brake. Front brake should be primary brake, except when turning. The rear brake doesn't do a whole lot to stop or even slow down the bike, yet people tend to use it the most. Pull the front brake first and just have your toe resting on the rear brake, as your bike slows your body will rock forward causing your toe to push on the rear brake. That's about all you need. If you ever lock up the rear and start sliding, the bike will go sideways and if you let up it will high side you. If you do lock up, slowly let up. Just use the front first and the problem won't occur.

 

My rear rotor warped and I replaced it with a floating rotor. It took about 65k miles before it happened. I rode it for another 15k before it was bad enough to change it out. I've got 83k now and I'll be going with floating rotors on the front before too long. I'm definitely light on the rear brake generally and heavy on the fronts. The fixed rotors will warp if the brakes get hot from aggressive riding. Hot outer rotor, cool center where it's attached to the hub. The floating rotors have the friction discs isolated from the hub and are less likely to tweak under heat (warp). If you're not picky on the style of floating rotor, they're only about $20 more a piece than the solid rotors.

 

Brake discs can warp when you brake aggressively and keep your brake applied after you stopped. The disc is hot and the part of the disc that's not covered by the pads cools at a faster rate compared to the bit that is still pinched by the brake pads. With heat comes expansion and heating or cooling at different rates results in warping.

 

If I understand it correctly - you had worn pads and no issues - had new pads installed and now a warped rotor?

Sounds more like the shop bent the rotor - not hard to do.

 

I don't see how they can bend the rotor by just replacing the pads.

I just replaced mine.Removed the two caliper bolts,lifted it off,replaced pads and placed it back on.

 

The rear caliper is a close/tight fit, If ya don't spread the pistons back open it doesn't want to come off. A lazy or new service tech may rock/roll caliper back and forth on the rotor to spread pads. And can easily bend/warp the rotor. Another reason I do all/most of my own work .

 

Here is the deal on Rotors. They warp. When they do replace them with floating rotors. HD has so fairly priced one. Once you do never worry about it again.
You can argue about it , beat your head against the wall. The only cure is to replace them with floating rotors. I have saved the old rotors off the last 4 touring bikes they will be made into an amazing wind chime.

You aint bending no rotor by replacing pads.

 

I've seen a few posts saying rotors can get "warped" by a mechanic, but I've never understood how that occurs. Smokey offers an explanation but Smitty appears to disagree. Frankly, I don't see how it can happen unless the thing doesn't sit properly on the hub. Of course use will take out oem rotors in a parking lot. I use EBC.