Exhaust Stud came out.. Help with installation?

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Apr 12, 2016 | 06:53 AM

#11

rusty289

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Joined: Jan 2014

Posts: 353

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From: New Brunswick Canada

Yeah I'd definitely get new studs, they came out obviously because the exposed end must be rusted and the nuts didn't want to turn.

New studs will give you peace of mind, I'd put some thread locker on them too. Ask the dealer they'll know for sure the proper way to put them in and the tourque setting.

Apr 12, 2016 | 07:24 AM

#12

flatfifth2003

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Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 104

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From: Harrisburg,PA

I would definitely not use red locktight on anything that does not call for it, think ahead to the next time you have to replace them, I use antiseize on the whole stud and torque to spec. never had an issue with them backing out

Apr 12, 2016 | 07:34 AM

#13

grbrown

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Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 45,429

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From: Bedford UK

I had one of my head studs on the Sporty come out recently. The thread had been damaged slightly, on the pipe side not in the head, so I replaced it. I used double nuts and just screwed in the new one with care. The old stud had very clean head threads (2011 bike) so I simply installed the new one as it came.

Last edited by grbrown; Apr 12, 2016 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Grammar!

Apr 12, 2016 | 11:48 AM

#14

Scuba10jdl

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Aug 2009

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I wouldn't tap/chase the head at all. The stud/head thread is an interference fit. It is designed to go in and bind up. Without knowing the exact specs of the thread classes you will likely end up making the head useless.

Never had issues just double nutting and installing the studs in to length (use an existing stud as a guide). Use anti-seize on the stud nut when installing pipes.

Apr 12, 2016 | 12:47 PM

#15

lt1-xjs

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2012

Posts: 1,027

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From: Centerville, ohio

There should be a boss in the middle of the stud, use some blue and run it in and snug it.

Apr 12, 2016 | 03:55 PM

#16

skratch

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 20,616

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From: anacoco, la

i wouldn't use either blue or red loctite on it. think about it, when you need to remove a bolt that has been installed with loctite red, you heat it up. i would think that the heat at the exhaust port is at least as high as the heat you get when using a heat gun or a soldering iron on the bolt.

i would look in the manual and see if it has for the procedure.

i've had one stud back out of the head, it was easy enough to double nut and tighten it back up again. never came loose again. and make sure that you don't use gorilla specs when tightening the exhaust flange bolts, i believe the spec is around 10 ft/lbs.

Apr 12, 2016 | 04:53 PM

#17

TF3N

Thread Starter

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Joined: Jul 2014

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From: Alberta

All good, got everything put back together.

I didn't use locktite going into the head, didn't make much sense to me. I did use antiseize on the other side, though. Dealer tech told me they thread the studs all the way in, that was good enough for me. Left me with plenty of thread.

Thanks again for the assistance.

-T

Next up: rear wheel

Apr 12, 2016 | 09:03 PM

#18

NAILIT RK

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Joined: Apr 2012

Posts: 344

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From: California

Yep. I would just use never seiz on both ends... Your still gonna get your torque and tightness, last thing you want in the future is those studs not coming out...those nuts should be check once in awhile anyways because of the heat and cool down they go through. (expansion and contraction)

Last edited by NAILIT RK; Apr 12, 2016 at 09:06 PM.