Well I have a 2010 E.G. Police bike with 53k and a 1999 R.K. Police bike with 43k ( BOTH STOCK )... just when y'all have me talked into this sprocket, I see someone else with concerns. I am not doing any other HP MODS, stock is good enough for me on 2 wheels, but this sprocket sure has my attention....

 

Your 1999 bike is a TC88 and has the earlier type of comp which is fine, so rest easy! It is only the later bikes AFAIK, the TC96 models etc, that may have comp problems. They have been documented widely around HDF, so there is plenty to read, if you want to search.

 

The pre-'11 103s also had the poor compensator from the factory if I remember correctly. My concern, aside from all of those already mentioned, is for the inner primary bearing receiving greater than normal shock loading. While not expensive, it is a bigger PITA to change than a tensioner, clutch, or compensator. I suspect mine was beaten to death by the original factory compensator on my 08 Road King, then by a heavily worn (70,000 miles on the first design SE Comp) and was overdue a change at 85,000 miles. So, I would be curious about any low mileage (after the solid drive sprocket installation) IPB failures.

 

If it didn't last 3000 miles YOU did something wrong

 

I have a 2011 Heritage that I plan on doing the same, I get a lot of slip when taking off, I even installed a new M6 in hoping that would have taken care of it. I plan on putting a HD clutch spring while I have the box open. How is start up and shut down?

 

OK...let's try this again.... I took about 20 minutes the first time composing a reply and lost it somehow.
I’ve got a 2012 FLHX with a 120R motor and Trask turbo adjusted to 8.5 lbs. boost. On 87 octane gas it puts out 165 RWHP & 165 RWTQ. 94 octane gas is readily available here. I’ve got a boost controller that I can adjust to get 10-12 lbs. boost, so even more HP & TQ, but I don’t bother doing that. One reason is because of this compensator sprocket issue.

The stock 2012 H-D compensator didn’t last at all and since then I’ve had two Screamin’ Eagle compensators fail on me before I settled in with the Baker compensator and Attitude adjuster. All was fine for about 1-1/2 years. But this year I was getting the familiar “box of rocks” sound from my primary. After disassembling my primary I found the compensator sprocket and the cam slider were damaged. The springs in my spring cup assembly may be weakened also but that is impossible to see and difficult to measure.

Even before all this, a couple of years ago I had considered removing my motor and tearing it down and welding the flywheels and a solid compensator sprocket. But aside from this compensator issue now my bike is working really good. Lots of good power all across the RPM range, tight, clean and reliable.

FYI, I have read that even the Screamin’ Eagle compensators have problems with motors putting out more than 140 RWTQ. Especially a touring model that’s pushing 900 lbs. wet weight. I am the proof of that, I guess.

I spoke to Baker about this. They told me that right now they are in development of a stronger compensator sprocket to handle high TQ/HP motors. I told them whenever they put this out for sale, I’ll be one of the first in line to get one. At the moment it seems like this might be my best solution. I’d really like to find something that works other than pulling my engine and tearing it down and doing the welding of the flywheels. That’s a lot of work, time and $$$.

 

I have 14K on my Primo belt drive system with no compensator ('13 FXSB). The switch changed the ratio from 1.35:1 to 1.55:1 and brought my shifts closer together with better take-off torque.

Primo 3" belt drive primary

 

I like the clear primary cover. It allows quick visual inspection to be able to see any unusual wear and/or leaks etc.

 

If life without a compensator blows a crank, it was going to blow anyway.
I have run them in everything I have ever owned, and never had a crank come apart.
Once i Worked in a network of HD shops for awhile-never ever heard of one being the cause of demolition. (4 shops)
The new cranks are just what they are, - some better than others but none too good at all, without reworking.
If you think of the dynamics,- the only place a comp is compensating, is at low speed. Low, low speed.
Out on the highway, the spring is wrapped tight, it is not jumping back and forth acting as a shock absorber for the crank.
In fact, if you let off the throttle and then wack it open, the thing acts as it is not there, it provides nothing.
All force is transmitted.
The internet crowd that runs around in the armchairs repeating what has been said over and over has no experience only parroting.
If you can show me a crank that will blow from a direct connection without a compensator I will show you one that was going too anyway.
PLAIN and simple folks.
After all, it is directly hooked up at speed as i said and getting WORSE shocks should you blip the throttle-- as the clutch thingy in it would allow an acceleration moment
and truly BE slamming the crank.
So never blip your throttle at speed.....................LOL

 

I really want to try one of those belt drive primaries, but damn they are $$$