Talldog,

My process:
1) Clear codes
2) Turn on ignition, wait for check engine to go out
3) wait several minutes ( no CEL)
4) operate throttle, wait ( no CEL)
5) start bike and run, reving engine, (no CEL).
6) Rock bars full lock to lock a few times BINGO. CEL comes on and same codes

I will I'll keep looking for any other kinked wires down the line?

The reason I looked at the connector was it was really tight on its pirch and I noticed the deformed wires

with it all start I have not been able to reproduce the code?

-- Gary

 

Found a severely linked wire back in the harness that gets bunched up when turning to the right

 

Good job, I clipped all mine there since they all were kinked. You "should" never have that issue again.

 

First you need to understand how & where to use dielectric grease.


B Bop

2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.

Great spirits have always encountered violent oppositions from mediocre minds.

 

Noted,


I used a very small amount. I understand but the repair procedure for the TCA connector states to use Dielectric Grease? 1/7/2011 # TT418A


"Repair Procedure:

4. BEFORE CONNECTING the TCA CONNECTOR, clean the male TCA pin terminals with a swab and alcohol, and ASSEMBLE WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE."


Does this mean not on the pins ? and on the connector mating surfaces?


I will clean it off if it causes any issues

 

Kerr 8005,


Its a bad spot, as the harness bunches back onto itself in this area when it full right turn. I reorganized all the wires and bundle to help stop it, however it will still do it to a point. hmmmm....


I will keep my eye on it. I wish I had a picture of the correct factory routing so I could check to see if I put mine back in the correct places.


-- Gary

 

WOW! I've been doing this wrong all these years?
I'm completely floored.
I worked a retail parts store when I was younger and told countless people the wrong way to use dielectric grease.

 

Sounds like the OP might be having the same problem as me.
One difference, unless you just didn't mention it.
When I move the handle bars right I get a rev.
One giant rev.
One giant embarrassing rev like I'm a newbie idiot.
Codes go on after and it is always rideable but I do feel like I'm at 75% power.
Not limp mode. Something between limp and normal.

I'm about to do a big service that will involve cleaning and using dielectric on the terminals behind the air cleaner at the servo box. Gonna use Deoxit-D5. I also bought the terminals specified in the HD bulletin to install.

I've wondered about the wires at the neck but it is intermittent so I never know which wire might be causing it. I cut the zip tie. Guess I need to look harder to see if I see kinks.

 

Dew Me,

My broken wire was in the flex point of where all the sub harness's come together. For me it was very close to the main cable clamp that is rivited to the frame.

I opened the other jacked exposing the harnesses and that I just twised the TBW harness where it entered the taped bundle and I was able to reproduce the fault.

Good Luck

-- Gary

 

Update:

Still having problems.
I get codes 2138 and 1510 all the time.
I'll clear the codes and the codes will come right back up a second later.

I did the big service.
I used Deoxit and dielectric grease on the connection behind the air cleaner at the servo box.
I removed the fairing and double checked ALL wiring connections, focusing on the TBW connector to make sure all wiring was in the right pin slots in the connector.

I cut the shrink warp covering wires at the neck. I wiggled each wire wine by one to see if it caused a rev.

I visually inspected looking for kinks where it looked like they may be.

Tomorrow, time willing, I will strip more of the wires near the neck and try harder to wiggle them to see if I can find a spot that moves to freely.

I just don't know what else to do aside from replacing the TBW.
It is hard enough to run wires, but I have already had to pull these internal wires once b4. They are MUCH HARDER to pull back out then they are to install.

I don't want to spend an eternity replacing an TBW and spending almost 200 to find out that I still have a problem.

I'm frustrated enough to pay someone to do the work, and I NEVER have my vehicles worked on. It wouldn't work here anyway. Tech would guess TBW, charge me a thousand bucks or more and then tell me, well...we fixed the first problem, now we have to figure out a second problem that has come to light.
Translation: We replaced the wrong part and it didn't fix it but we can't admit that. (I've worked at dealerships)