I recently went from 07 Streetglide to 2010 Ultra. I changed bars on the streetglide to Wild 1 Chubby’s wo 575. Great bars but still had shoulder neck pain on any distance because I still was reaching. I’m now considering Chubby wo579 and wo577’s. Wo579 is 1 1/2” shorter height than my 575’s, but 3” additional reach (pull back). wo 577 Apes are 4 1/2” taller with 11” pull back (same as wo575). I’m 6’2” with 33” sleeve length; short arms compared to most guys 6’ 2”. If anybody has had similar situation I’d appreciate your input. I want to sit straight up and not experience pain. I’ve never rode with any ape hangers. As you know installing bars with a batwing is time consuming, I don’t want to this twice.

 

I remember going through this; it is a big decision and it is not fun.
There is more then just bar height that goes into the equation.

To get it out of the way before there is a deluge of posts:
I suggest you find others who have those bars installed an ask it you could see how they feel.
This time of year that may be difficult, and might be especially difficult since the 579’s have not been out that long.

Remember, it is not just your height and your arm length, but also the length of your torso, the position your seat puts you in, etc.

Personally, I would look at your seat first.
Is it comfortable for the long hall? Are your feet planted properly when you stop? Do you plan to change it in the future?
Once you are satisfied with your seat you can then move to your bars.

To discover what bars may be appropriate, I would suggest you put your bike in an upright position (I just used a jack to upright the bike, but left the tires on the ground.) Use what-ever, but you, seated on the bike, must be in a neutral, natural seated position with no outside stress to influence any ensuant results.

Then, get together with a trusted friend, have a beer or two to loosen up, (make sure your friend is not drunk) then go sit on the bike. Close your eyes, pretend you are riding, then move your arms and hands to their most comfortable position. Hold your arms and hands there for at least 10-20 seconds, then have your friend measure the height and pull-back needed. Also, have them note the angle of your wrists.

Then find a set of bars to match what you and your friend have found.

** manufacturers do not necessarily measure the height and pull-back of bars the same.
You will have to find out how the manufacture of the bars you are looking at do these measurements, and make any adjustments necessary to the way your friend did the measurements.

Hope this helps.
.

 

Do you have a back rest? If not, you should.

 

Your local dealer may have a 'fit centre', where you can try alternative H-D bars, or get a better idea of what will best suit you. My own experience is that several attempts at adjusting the stock bars 'just so' on my bike eventually worked out just fine and I've ridden long tours in complete comfort ever since. I've never used a backrest.

Having owned Harleys for over 40 years I joked long ago that the bike builders at the factory are obviously gorillas - as pretty well every bike I have ever ridden or sat on has the grips too far away for my comfort. It only takes a little time and patience to change that.

 

seat... and bars. as stated not an easy process..... i started with seat....then bars.... mounted 5 sets of bars on my RK before getting it right,..... on my SGS i put on the same seat.... and ordered and installed the same bars.......never do i experience any discomfort....can ride all day good luck.... see the pull back on current bars... place your hands in a comfortable spot with out leaning forward......if they dont reach the current bars...add the difference to the pull back and that should give you an idea of how much pull back you want ...

 

When I did my bars, before I tightened them up, I sat on the bike how I think is the most comfortable. I reached out my hands and looked to where my hands where in comparison to the location of the grips. I then moved my bars accordingly. I moved them back a smudge a couple day later. I didnt want to reach too far forward on slow turns.

 

on a street glide you dont have as much wiggle room as you do a Road Glide, which is the same mount as a Road King....street glide bars come through the fairing and can only adjust so much.... so getting the proper pull back is key.... plus it maintains the intended wrist angle....

 

I got lucky with my 10” chubby’s on my RK.

If I was running a batwing I would hit the dealer and sample as many bikes as possible.

The right seat and bars are the key to a happy life!

Good Luck man I hope you find the perfect setup!

 

10" Yaffee bars pulled back about 1" - 1 1/2" from being tight up against the batwing. I get no shoulder pain at all, when I used to with the stock bars. I'm 5'10". These are great bars.

 

Son-In-Law and I take a trip out west every year for the past 6 years or so and rack up 5-6 thousand miles each trip. Bars were always problematic and I tried all the recommended procedures to determine proper fitment to no avail.
I changed bars on my '11 Ultra until I could do it in my sleep almost. Sold the Ultra and moved to a tri-glide and dreaded the inevitable search for bars again.
This time though I bought Arlen Ness modular bars and all I could say was WOW! They are infinitely adjustable and make 600 mile days much easier. They are on my '12 tri-glide and am putting Klock Werks KlipHanger bars on my '17 tri glide next week (same concept as Ness).
Personally don't understand why everyone doesn't run some type of modular bars but I am much a function over form person....I like to be comfortable.
I highly recommend checking these type of bars out.
Just my 2cents and your mileage may vary.
-Carl