I have an 03 lowrider with a charging issue. 3 years back I replaced rotor/stator, rec/reg and battery to restore charging voltage.
The rotor had a broken magnet but all other components were original and replaced as a matter of course.
Recently the bike began breaking down (missing) under hard throttle. Battery voltage of ~ 12.4vdc with bike running. Battery voltage dropped below 9vdc while cranking so replaced with 20ah 310 CCA AGM battery to assure
I had a healthy battery. Now cranking voltage doesnt drp below 10.2 vdc but charging voltage is still "0".
Stator to ground test passed with no short orground resistance between either field lead and a chassis ground.

With engine off, separated the rec/reg input plug from stator output and started bike. Read ~16-20Vac/1000 rpm with a starting reading of 18 @ 1000 up to 58Vac @ 3000
so plenty of source voltage.

Static diode test of rectifier passed with .5v ohm nreadings on Fluke DVM from red to rectifier ground lead and black to either AC input lead.
and infinite resistance reversing the leads.

Ground continuity checked good from chassis/engine back to battery

Decided to replace the rect/reg with new part. Just installed it and have the exact same results.
This isn't rocket science and simple logic lead me to think the regulator could still be bad
under dynamic testing. Stator still putting out amost 20 Vac per 1000 rpm.

Any ideas? The only thing that hasnt been replaced is the stator/rotor assy.

 

Any ideas? Yes, go to the Tech Electrical section, where you will find a couple of Stickies on checking your charging system. Follow them, which should help you diagnose the source of your problems. Simply replacing stuff doesn't always get things done, so let us know what you find.

 

It sounds like all should be good. You mentioned that you have continuity on the ground side. What about on the positive side? Just because your multimeter shows continuity there may not be enough capacity to let the current through. I would be sure the ground wire running from the voltage regulator is good at both ends. I would also ensure it hasn't gotten worn or cut nearly through at some point along the way. I would do the same for the positive wire as well.

 

 

 

When you did your stator to ground test, did you verify you had a good ground first? Putting the negative meter lead on a bolt head or other frame location may not necessarily be a good ground.

I just had to replace everything on my 08 RKC. Mine passed all the tests but the voltages were low and different across the stator leads. So I took it to my indy who said the stator failed and fried the regulator.

This doesn't fit all failures but my experience is that low voltage issues usually point to the stator and high voltage the regulator. And when the stator goes, it usually takes out the regulator with it. This is my second full replacement of the charging system and one other time I got lucky with a regulator only. Mine has 136,000 miles on it.

Good luck.

 

My thought is you are complicating you info with a lot of detail not necessary. Check all output at 2000 RPM test range for book ratings.

Your 3000 high AC seems little high but not a concern but your 1000 seems a little low when hooked to battery thru regulator.

My guess is your regulator is still bad or you have high resistance to the battery connections. Or the battery is bad with internal shorts. I would start at battery.

When you check stator, always check the 2 or 3 wires with ohm to frame ground (zero) which you did but also check the ohm reistance to each other but you need service manual spec for this info. Is your stator 3 wire or two?

 

Had a charging issue with my 07 last year. I went as far as changing the regulator and stator. I cleaned all the grounds. It turned out to be cheap assed batteries, one from WalMart, one from Oreilly. I used the Deca from the TriGlide and it straightened out. I went and got a factory battery and everything has been fine since. You get what you pay for.

 

All input appreciated! Always good not to skimp unknown 3rd party gear especially on critical systems. Didn't want to bog down discussion with any unnecessary detail spew... just wanted to provide good info for good feedback. Charging system is the stock 32 A ""split" single phase type with 2 field wires only as output.
With the stator feed disconnected from the REC/REG I saw an expected AC voltage value of ~37Vac @ 2000 rpm.
Bike shut down, REG/REG reconnected and with bike running, voltage dropped to 14 Vac between stator output leads. That value doesn't provide enough potential to drive a regulated DC output. A static resistance test with Fluke multimeter between output wires after about 30 seconds drops from .01 to .00 ohms. That seems to indicate an internal short between windings. Everything tested good following AC output test procedures posted. Testing AC output with the regulator in line turned up the problem.
Gonna throw down on 3 phase charging system!

 

This is correct...... With the stator feed disconnected from the REC/ REG I saw an expected AC voltage value of ~37Vac @ 2000 rpm.

Need to check resistance at R1X off stator leads before you condemn that running output connected to regulator and battery. Need manual for that for resistance.. I would do that even if I went to 3 phase.
system. Battery needs to be charged with no short before AC and DC are correct at 2000 RPM test. I have a 2003 Dyna service manual but not the diagnostic manual for that resistance. Appears you also have a connection on the primary cover which can go bad from corrosion.

1. Generic Specs:

• 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
• 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
• 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms