Curious about Ohlins sag adjustment not increasing sag
#1
Curious about Ohlins sag adjustment not increasing sag
I have a new set of Howard's 2-2b shocks. These are the basic ones that only have sag adjustment. I do understand all about how to set sag. Howard included the correct spring, I assume, for my weight: 180 lbs. I believe it is 25 Nm, but the Ohlins written designation (00281 68/25 L1518) on the spring makes little sense to me and I cannot find a good interpretation online.
Observing the proper procedure, I began to lessen preload to get my 1" sag. I understand each full turn only results in about a 1.5 mm change. After about four turns I determined using the zip tie approach that my sag was not dropping farther. I tried a couple more upward turns and measured no more change.
I intend to ride with these new shocks set at wherever the preload is now and see if I am at the correct full stroke or bottoming. I do expect to make further adjustments. I just wonder if anyone else experienced what I have described: seemingly an end to the point where the shocks allow further sag increase.
Thank you.
Observing the proper procedure, I began to lessen preload to get my 1" sag. I understand each full turn only results in about a 1.5 mm change. After about four turns I determined using the zip tie approach that my sag was not dropping farther. I tried a couple more upward turns and measured no more change.
I intend to ride with these new shocks set at wherever the preload is now and see if I am at the correct full stroke or bottoming. I do expect to make further adjustments. I just wonder if anyone else experienced what I have described: seemingly an end to the point where the shocks allow further sag increase.
Thank you.
#6
I have a new set of Howard's 2-2b shocks. These are the basic ones that only have sag adjustment. I do understand all about how to set sag. Howard included the correct spring, I assume, for my weight: 180 lbs. I believe it is 25 Nm, but the Ohlins written designation (00281 68/25 L1518) on the spring makes little sense to me and I cannot find a good interpretation online.
Observing the proper procedure, I began to lessen preload to get my 1" sag. I understand each full turn only results in about a 1.5 mm change. After about four turns I determined using the zip tie approach that my sag was not dropping farther. I tried a couple more upward turns and measured no more change.
I intend to ride with these new shocks set at wherever the preload is now and see if I am at the correct full stroke or bottoming. I do expect to make further adjustments. I just wonder if anyone else experienced what I have described: seemingly an end to the point where the shocks allow further sag increase.
Thank you.
Observing the proper procedure, I began to lessen preload to get my 1" sag. I understand each full turn only results in about a 1.5 mm change. After about four turns I determined using the zip tie approach that my sag was not dropping farther. I tried a couple more upward turns and measured no more change.
I intend to ride with these new shocks set at wherever the preload is now and see if I am at the correct full stroke or bottoming. I do expect to make further adjustments. I just wonder if anyone else experienced what I have described: seemingly an end to the point where the shocks allow further sag increase.
Thank you.
Last edited by tbob; 01-02-2019 at 04:48 AM.
#7
Each turn of the adjuster will raise or lower the spring the exact distance of the thread pitch. The bike will move almost identically, but owing to mounting points on the swing arm, there will be a little difference.
Moving the locking ring will not change anything, you need to be moving the adjuster, which is the one the spring is riding on. I'm sure you know this, but sometimes we can all get distracted and make an oops.
You really want to move the adjuster with the least load on it possible. Jacking the bike and letting the tail hang is about the least load you can generically get. True, compressing the spring is even better, but that's usually beyond the scope.
Anyhow, since the spring(s) are what holds the bike up, adjusting both springs will result in the bike going up and down. Only if the bike is sitting bottomed out on the jack or such would the bike quit going down with the adjusters being moved towards the eye end of the shock. But, looking for trace amounts of change (as in a mm), that can easily be lost in the noise.
Moving the locking ring will not change anything, you need to be moving the adjuster, which is the one the spring is riding on. I'm sure you know this, but sometimes we can all get distracted and make an oops.
You really want to move the adjuster with the least load on it possible. Jacking the bike and letting the tail hang is about the least load you can generically get. True, compressing the spring is even better, but that's usually beyond the scope.
Anyhow, since the spring(s) are what holds the bike up, adjusting both springs will result in the bike going up and down. Only if the bike is sitting bottomed out on the jack or such would the bike quit going down with the adjusters being moved towards the eye end of the shock. But, looking for trace amounts of change (as in a mm), that can easily be lost in the noise.
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albngore (01-02-2019)
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#8
What am I missing here?
Sag is with you sitting on the bike. I am guessing you put a zip tie on the damper and after sitting on the bike you are expecting it to be an inch lower? You reduce the preload on the spring but the zip tie isn't moving down the damper any more?
So either you are not adjusting the preload or you are but the spring rate is wrong for your combined weight.
Can you find a friend who can hold a measure against the bike whilst you sit on it?
Sag is with you sitting on the bike. I am guessing you put a zip tie on the damper and after sitting on the bike you are expecting it to be an inch lower? You reduce the preload on the spring but the zip tie isn't moving down the damper any more?
So either you are not adjusting the preload or you are but the spring rate is wrong for your combined weight.
Can you find a friend who can hold a measure against the bike whilst you sit on it?
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albngore (01-02-2019)
#9
You're asking a pretty goofy question! Howard's #3-3 here, bought about ten years ago. Sag is measured while you are sitting on your bike, not something that is easy to do on your own unless you are a contortionist. If you are attempting this alone then find a pal to assist.
#10
Why are you asking us? You might get a right answer, you might get Mayhem answering your questions.
You bought the shocks from Howard, so ask Howard. Howard literally has the best customer service on earth (if you can handle his crustiness).
I once called him at 1000 on a Sunday, I start off with "sorry to bother you on a Sunday morning". His reply was "...didn't I tell you to call me anytime?". I answered "well yes". and he said "so what do you need..."
In my book, customer service doesn't get much better.....
You bought the shocks from Howard, so ask Howard. Howard literally has the best customer service on earth (if you can handle his crustiness).
I once called him at 1000 on a Sunday, I start off with "sorry to bother you on a Sunday morning". His reply was "...didn't I tell you to call me anytime?". I answered "well yes". and he said "so what do you need..."
In my book, customer service doesn't get much better.....
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nytryder (01-03-2019)