Wharfcrek, just unplug the 2 wires under the tank up by the neck on the right side. Turn on your panel switch and when you set the cruise then the light on the tac should turn green. If it doesn't then you will need to read the manual and make sure you set the cruise modual per the directions. I have a bad switch on mine also, so I just unplug one wire at the neck for my cruise to work. The roll off switch does not work, but at least I got the light to turn green.

 

This post has a lot of info about the cruise control https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...e-control.html

 

Found this also. Not sure if it applies to the ultra but hope it may help.
good luck with what looks like an awesome ride.

(Copied and pasted from old thread)
Here's a procedure you can try.
It works on an '05 FLH so let's see if it works on your RK.

1. Hold cruise switch in the "set" position.
2. Turn the cruise "on"
3. Turn the main power switch on, the cruise light should initially come on then turn green, release the cruise switch the light will turn amber.
4. Push the cruise switch to "resume" the light should turn green, release the switch, the light should turn amber.
5. Roll the throttle "off", make sure you roll it off to activate the cutoff switch for the cruise, the light should turn green, release the throttle the light should turn amber.
6. Apply the front brake, the light should turn green, release it, the light should turn amber.
7. Apply the back brake, the light should turn green, hold the brake until the light turns amber, release the brake now, you should hear the cruise motor adjusting itself (taking ujp the slack).

What you have done is test each of the "switches" that are in the cruise system. If, during any of the tests, the light does not turn green, then that part is at fault.

The back brake switch is often at fault. You can test that by applying the brake and see if the light is already on. If it is, the cruise will not engage.

The front brake switch can be at fault also, as it sometimes gets damaged when work is done on the right handgrip/brake lever assembly and the proper procedure is not followed.

The "roll-off" switch can also be at fault. Check the connections on that.

It does sound like it's a fault in the brake system, since it started malfunctioning after you applied the brakes.

 

On my 09 Road King you turn the CC on theh when you reach the speed you want to cruise at you just turn the switch on the throttle side to the right. That sets the speed. If you want to speed up a little you bump the same switch to the left and to slow down a little you bump it right.

 

I think the cruise control is different on the 2008 & later touring models because of the change to TBW (no throttle cables).

 

OK, I think some of the confusion is lifting. To begin, there IS a BIG difference between the operation of the '08 and later TBW (throttle by wire) systems and my '07 cable system. Some of the diagnostic charts I've been given and have been looking at actually don't apply to my bike. So, in trying to sort this out, I need to NOT confuse later TBW info with my system. That said, even some of the diagnostic charts I've been given for the '07 and earlier are rather confusing. At the moment, I'm NOT familiar enough with proper operation to be able to sort some of this out. So, my first question here is: When operating properly, the system is activated by turning the rocker switch on the faring to 'on'....which illuminates the function light on that rocker switch (yes/no?) Second question: When operating properly, the active system is indicated on the instruments by an 'amber' colored icon on the Tach which looks basically like a small speedo with an arrow. (Yes/no?) Third question......and I think this will be relevant to my problem: When operating properly, when 'setting' the cruise control, the amber light should turn 'Green'. (Yes/no?)

I have been following a diagnostic chart that says to enter 'diagnostic mode', you hold the turn the system 'on' (rocker switch on), hold the handle bar switch in the 'set' position, and then turn the ignition 'on'.....and this should show the cruise system as 'engaged'. My problem is that I'm not sure what that actually means, but I now believe I've figured out that 'engaged' means that the amber light should be 'green'. Mine does NOT do this. If I hold the switch to the 'set' position with the system 'on', and turn the ignition switch on, my amber light stays amber.....in either 'set' or 'resume' position.

The diagnostic chart is unclear as I'm not sure about this 'Green/Amber' thing.......and there's nothing mentioned in the chart about either color. All it says is that when performing this 'Step 1', the Cruise Engaged light should be on. What it does NOT say is what to do if the system isn't going into engaged mode. Again, I'm still confused about whether or not there is actually any difference.......so the answer to #3 above is critical to my continued efforts here.

Sorry for being so ignorant of this aspect of operation....but like I said, in 55 years of motorcycle riding, I've only had 3 bikes that had cruise control. The first was the '05 Ultra that I only owned for a few months and really never used the cruise control. The second, the '01 Road King, that one only got about 40 miles on it between purchase and sale. I'll note that funds from selling both those bikes are what helped finance this '07. I plan to keep this one for a while........ but I'd really like everything working properly. Thanks for the help!! Tom D.

 

"OK, I think some of the confusion is lifting. To begin, there IS a BIG difference between the operation of the '08 and later TBW (throttle by wire) systems and my '07 cable system."
Some difference in how its works but not in the lights or how to use it. (BTW: my bike is an '08 so keep that in mind)

"At the moment, I'm NOT familiar enough with proper operation to be able to sort some of this out. So, my first question here is: When operating properly, the system is activated by turning the rocker switch on the faring to 'on'....which illuminates the function light on that rocker switch (yes/no?)"
Yes, the symbol on the tach should light up amber. (BTW: It won't light up if the off/run switch on the handlebar is off)
BTW: You can leave the rocker switch on, I never turn it off.

"Second question: When operating properly, the active system is indicated on the instruments by an 'amber' colored icon on the Tach which looks basically like a small speedo with an arrow. (Yes/no?) "
Mostly Yes, see previous answer. (I won't swear that it being on verifies that every part of the system operates correctly).

"Third question......and I think this will be relevant to my problem: When operating properly, when 'setting' the cruise control, the amber light should turn 'Green'. (Yes/no?)"
Yes.
BTW: It won't activate below a certain speed (30 MPH I believe)

"I have been following a diagnostic chart that says to enter 'diagnostic mode', you hold the turn the system 'on' (rocker switch on), hold the handle bar switch in the 'set' position, and then turn the ignition 'on'.....and this should show the cruise system as 'engaged'. My problem is that I'm not sure what that actually means, but I now believe I've figured out that 'engaged' means that the amber light should be 'green'. Mine does NOT do this. If I hold the switch to the 'set' position with the system 'on', and turn the ignition switch on, my amber light stays amber.....in either 'set' or 'resume' position."
Remember my bike is an '08. As long as my ignition, cruise rocker switch and off/run switch are on the symbol on the tach is amber. The symbol turns green when I hold the switch left or right. (back to amber when I release).
(This is with the bike parked, not running).
I didn't notice any other indication of diagnostics. (no flashing of anything or any indication on the odometer).


BTW: The switches on the bars aren't immune to failure. Mine occasionally act up so I clean them every couple years. I've also seen pinched/broken wires.

In addition to the brakes and throttle the clutch will also disengage cruise. On my 08 it senses the RPM and speed. If the clutch slips (or is out of adjustment) the cruise will disengage.

 

piasspj, I'm unable to get to 'green' under with any attempts. The procedure says you hold the 'set' switch in the 'set' position BEFORE you turn the ignition on. AND, you're suppose to have the main function switch (the rocker switch on the faring) in the 'on' position, AND, the run/stop rocker switch on the handlebar should be in the 'run' position. When you turn the ignition 'on', the light on the tack should indicate 'engagement'. Unfortunately, that is not well defined. I believe this means that when you turn the ignition switch 'on', the tach light should turn on but be green, not amber. Then, when you release the 'set' swtich, it should go from green to amber. It then gets muddy from there, as it states that you move the set/resume switch to the 'resume' position and it should indicate engagement as well. However, it doesn't say if you should start the process over....as in turn the ignition 'off'...then move the set/resume switch to 'resume'...then turn the ignition back on....... OR ....... just leave the ignition switch 'on' and just move the set/resume switch from 'set' to 'resume'. Like I said, rather in explicit.

At this point, since I cannot get that green light by attempting any combination of trials, my belief is that the set/resume switch may be bad. BUT..... I'm still unclear as to whether or not a malfunction in the other swtiches,( ie the brake lights, the clutch, or the throttle cable,) ...would cause a 'no green' tach indicator even if the set/resume switch were good? I don't know if this is a clear question or not, so let me try to re-phrase it again: If the set/resume switch IS OK, but a problem lies elsewhere in the system, ie the throttle cable switch, will this prevent the first stage of this test from showing a 'green' indicator when performed as per the process? If so, then I suppose I could still have an number of problems. BUT, if not, then it would seem that I have either a bad set/resume switch, or a wiring problem within that switch circuit.

As I mentioned earlier, the outside temp has been over 100 for the past few days, and looks to be staying that way for the next couple more. This makes working in my driveway nearly impossible for me, as I just don't tolerate that kind of heat and the associated humidity very well at all! But, with some luck, I might be able to get the front part of the faring off tomorrow am, and then find the plug for that set/resume switch, and do some testing with a DVM. Hopefully it will be rather obvious as to which connector contains the wiring. If so, then shouldn't be too hard to test the function of the switch. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the help. I think I'm making progress here.....and maybe I'll get lucky and find just a broken wire at the switch housing or connector. Wouldn't that be nice!!

Tom

 

One more question regarding 'testing' the set/resume switch; it appears that this switch has 3 wires associated with it; a white/black, a blue/white, and a blue/black. The question is: What is the proper function 'electrical' function of this switch? Is the 'set' and 'resume' function activated by a 'make' or 'break' function of the switch itself, and if so, what wire would be the primary contact within the switch body? I ask this because it's unclear from the wiring diagram if the switch is 'open' in normal mode, or if any two, or all three, wires are connected. My first thought would be that something like the black/white wire would probably do a 'make' contact with either the blue/white wire for one function ( like 'set') and with the blue/black wire for the other function. But, in thinking about it, the 'logic' of this switch could also be that all 3 wires are 'connected'....and in giving the 'set' command the switch could go 'open' with one wire and in giving the resume command it could go 'open' with the other wire. And, of course....which wires do 'what'? So, if anyone knows, please let me know. The On-Line Electrical Manual I have says the connector from that switch is actually a 12-way unit located under the faring by the fork stem nut lock plate.....what ever that is! I believe the black/white wire is listed as being in cavity #4, while the other two wires in in cavities 11 and 12. Guess I've got my work cut out for me tomorrow am. It would just be nice to know if I put a DVM into the black/white wire cavity, and then test continuity with switching to either 'set' or 'resume' in either of the other two cavities...then if I should get continuity....I guess that would confirm the switch as being 'bad'.....or still possibly the wires to the switch. Maybe there's a way to 'cheat' the connector and run the diagnostic with just a wire jumper from cavity 4 to cavity 11 or 12 and see if I get a green light! Whew! Getting deep here! Tom D.

 

So basically from what you've said is everything goes as expected (you do get the amber light on the tach) but you never get it to ever turn green?
That sounds a lot like a bad set/resume switch to me. I'd open the set/resume switch housing. Look for pinched/broken wires. Also spray some electric contact cleaner in the switch.