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Road King 2002 FLHRCI cam tensioners

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  #81  
Old 10-13-2022, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Oil pump back the same way as far as direction. Be sure to measure the housing depth, rotor thickness and inspect faces for wear. See service manual. You need a harbor freight dial caliper at minimum. Or replace pump.

Before any teardown, if not replacing pump, a mechanic gage should be used to check idle and 3000 RPM oil pressure.
Ok... now I am wondering...
maybe it would be a good Idea to replace the pump with the new one...It is not extremly expensive...more or less 130USD but once I am there maybe i shall go that way. didn't want to add too much costs but still.
Now that I know... maybe I should deal with the pump as well ehh...

EDIT:
I have made some measurements.
please have a look on below.
measurement wise it looks ok in my opinion they are same witdth/height (gears)
there are a marks of wear, and this is what wonders me. will the pump still be ok for further use ?
sorry for this big pictures.













 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-13-2022 at 04:28 AM. Reason: pictures added
  #82  
Old 10-13-2022, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Lunchboxx
When I did mine on my 01 Road Glide, a factory Service manual was very helpful. Also don't buy OEM shoes. Get CYCO shoes.
Thanks for the hint.
I have already received the new Twin Power tensioners and as I have read they use CYCO shoes, so it shall be just fine
 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-13-2022 at 03:46 AM.
  #83  
Old 10-13-2022, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by crazytown
You are doing a great job of this. Soon enough it will be back together and on the road. Well done so far!
thank you!
I do it for the first time so you know how it is
I have broken the black slide of the chain... fortunately it is just a piece of plastic. It broke once I squeezed it with the pliers - but this means that this slide shoe shall also be exchanged as it was very fragile due to temperature I assume.
there are mistakes that will happen. but still I try to do my best on the critical parts.

EDIT: Just added some photos in post #81

and a question here.
can I take out the oil pressure relief velve and put compressed air through ?
 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-13-2022 at 04:32 AM.
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  #84  
Old 10-13-2022, 04:50 AM
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Just one more I forgot.
If you guys are following this thread and be so kind to support me, please have a look at above posts [#81, #83], I have add some stuff there and have some questions about the pump.
just two more photos as a hint for the others. once you decided to check your tensioners, take a look in the casing as well. this is where I found the pieces of mine...



Just measured the clerance on oil pump rotors.
looks good.
Manual calls for 0,004 inch = 0,1mm
I have
0,04 mm n internal rotors
and something between 0,04 and 0,05 on external one (feed)
 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-13-2022 at 07:14 AM.
  #85  
Old 10-13-2022, 10:55 AM
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and one more question.
My service manual states to assembly the oil pump rotors, dots facing out.
when I was taking off the cam plate, the feed rotors fell out [luckly I had a soft rag below ] and I am not sure how they were assembled.
internal rotors I have checked, and they were facing the dots INSIDE the pump.
Best practice says to assembly it the way it was - I will have to align the wear marks and see which way they were installed.
hopefylly I will manage to figure it out on the feed geortors.
 
  #86  
Old 10-13-2022, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by orzel_man
and one more question.
My service manual states to assembly the oil pump rotors, dots facing out.
when I was taking off the cam plate, the feed rotors fell out [luckly I had a soft rag below ] and I am not sure how they were assembled.
internal rotors I have checked, and they were facing the dots INSIDE the pump.
Best practice says to assembly it the way it was - I will have to align the wear marks and see which way they were installed.
hopefylly I will manage to figure it out on the feed geortors.
Been over numerous times on dots. I remember out. But that can be confusing. Normal you see them loading pump. Don't understand your last statement on cavity depth mixing metric and English and not clear on English. I need to look up that metric stuff.

. On my phone but the rotor looked terrible. It use to have a flat Blanchard ground face with just a hint of grindwheel abrasive scratches.

Your rebuilding to last as long as original. That's not looking like it would and you won't know it's low on op till it's awful low. Too high and too low is not good.
 
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  #87  
Old 10-13-2022, 12:15 PM
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Yes you can spray cleaner and use compressed air all through the cam plate to make sure it's clean. My '04 HD FSM has specs for the gerotor but doesn't mention dot orientation. However, many years ago I bought a Clymer Manual. (Great photos btw) And it does mention dots facing out as well as show a picture. I usually look at both when doing work just for additional information but use the HD FSM for critical specs. Buying a new pump is entirely your decision mate, your measurements and pocketbook.




 
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  #88  
Old 10-13-2022, 02:42 PM
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Thank you all!
From THE measurements...rotor clerance is very good.
The wear and the marks on them are not Ok...
I have cleaned it up and get a closer Look...
not very nice.but also not tragedy.
I think that I will have to buy new pump to have a peace of mind.
if I do it it must be done right.
as for today .. Just put new tensioner in.
some horror stories photos as well






 
  #89  
Old 10-13-2022, 03:22 PM
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If its worth doing, it's worth doing it right the first time. Keep the pics coming!
 
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  #90  
Old 10-13-2022, 07:18 PM
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Why do people these day feel the need to include boring pictures? You could just say what it measured at.

But its not just this thread, its guys taking pictures of stock bikes. You ask a guy if they like a product, they show a picture of it.
 


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